• By Sarah Horrocks

    When summer hits Paris, it's time for Paris Plages, an artificial beach along one bank of the Seine.
    When summer hits Paris, it's time for Paris Plages, an artificial
    beach along one bank of the Seine.


    Coming to Paris in July or August? High summer in the city is one long social whirl.

    There are a few unfortunate Parisians who find themselves spending July and August in the city, instead of disappearing to St. Barthélemy, Île de Ré or the Riviera like everyone else. Just imagine having to spend the entire summer season in Paris, lounging in the Jardin du Luxembourg and sipping wine on terraces. Doesn’t the heart bleed?

    To cheer up the poor souls, Monsieur the Mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, kindly organizes an artificial beach along one bank of the Seine, in the city center. With real sand, water fountains, deck chairs, parasols, palm trees, games and ice cream and refreshment stands, it’s (almost) the real deal. Paris Plages runs from July 20 to August 19. The event also has a satellite at the Bassin de la Villette, in the eastern part of the city, where you can try water sports and activities such as tai chi.

    The Paris Quartier d’Eté festival brings dance, music, theater and circus performances to locations all over the city.
    The Paris Quartier d’Eté festival brings dance, music, theatre and circus
    performances to locations all over the city.


    And that’s not all. A series of concerts, Fnac Indétendances, runs from July 23 to August 14 at the Hôtel de Ville, next to the beach. This year’s lineup includes Belgian golden oldie Arno, American rockers Nada Surf and British trip-hopper Tricky, who used to work with Massive Attack. Entry is free.

    The Paris Quartier d’Eté festival, now in its 21st year, brings dance, music, theatre and circus performances to locations all over the city from July 14 to August 14. Some are free; for the rest, tickets can be purchased through the website

    Bastille Day (July 14) is a national holiday, but the party starts on the night of the 13th, with the first of the traditional dances thrown by firemen (bals des pompiers). If a night out in the company of some fine young Gallic things in uniform seems like a fitting way to celebrate the birth of the republic to you, check out the list of venues. A concert also takes place on the 13th at Bastille, where it all began, at 8:30 p.m. The firemen’s dances are held on the evening of the 14th, too, but really there’s no other destination than the Champ de Mars, where a stunning fireworks display takes place against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower. This year’s theme is “Colors of Francophonie.” The fireworks start at 11 p.m., but plan to arrive early to find a decent spot. And there’s always a special moment when “La Marseillaise” is played. We didn’t exactly hear it much during the World Cup, so practice your pronunciation! There are various translations here

    The Parc Floral, in Paris, holds a summer weekend jazz festival.
    The Parc Floral holds a summer weekend jazz festival.

    On hazy summer evenings, three-hour aperitifs and late-night picnics by the Seine are better than dinner at Fouquet’s. My favorite places to picnic are the romantic Pont des Arts, overlooking Île de la Cité, with views of Notre Dame; the Canal St.-Martin in the 10th and 11th Arrondissements, where boules players often gather on the banks; the sloping Parc des Buttes Chaumont, in the 19th; and the Parc Floral, on the eastern edge of the city, which hosts a jazz festival on weekends through August 1. Admission is 5 euros (2.50 euros for attendees under 25).

    In the nicest possible way, Paris in summer—i.e., without most Parisians—is much more relaxing. Business grinds to a halt, some restaurants close up and public transport is less frequent. But you won’t get shoved out of the way in the metro, the quieter streets are even more pleasant to wander and there’s no shortage of entertainment.


    INFO


    For updates on Paris Plages, keep checking the mayor’s website and the website of the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau.


    Editor's note
    : Try our downloadable walking tours of Paris.


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