Few Parisians are as fully immersed in the world of contemporary art as Ariane de Courcel. As vice president of Friends of la Maison Rouge, she has a job that entails extensive fieldwork, including studio visits and gallery and museum private views, as well as tours of important collections, exhibitions and art fairs throughout Europe. This quintessentially elegant St.-Germain resident shares insider art tips and her carnet of favorite restaurants and shops.
La Maison Rouge is well known among contemporary-arts cognoscenti, but how would you describe its unique program to visitors who haven’t heard of you? What will they find there that other museums and galleries don’t offer?
Our status as a private foundation that functions without public funding allows us total freedom when creating exhibitions. We specialize in shows of private collections and installations by artists who are little known to the general public, usually before they’ve been shown by other French cultural institutions. The exhibitions reflect [founder] Antoine de Galbert’s taste and ideas. The physical space is unusual, and it emits a very special atmosphere.
Which are your four favorite Parisian museums? Le Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, for the high caliber of its historic art collection, interspersed with works of contemporary art; the Palais de Tokyo, for its avant-garde creations and bohemian-grunge aesthetic; the Centre Pompidou, for the most beautiful views of Paris, superb exhibitions and the presentation of its collection; and Le Musée de la Vie Romantique, with its time-capsule ambience, hollyhocks blooming in the garden and intimate exhibitions.
You’re something of an expert on the 6th Arrondissement, having lived there for 25 years. Which restaurants, shops and destinations are your neighborhood coups de coeur? La Méditerranée [classic fish restaurant in a timeless locale]; Azabu [for Japanese]; Les Cinoches [contemporary chic bistro]; Le Comptoir du Relais [haute bistro for dinner, casual at lunch]; Pascal Mutel, for flowers; Jean-Paul Hévin, for chocolate; and Cire Trudon [royal candle maker since 1643].
The entry to La Maison Rouge.
What original Parisian souvenir would you offer as a gift to a girlfriend overseas?
An artist’s limited edition of a photograph or print from La Maison Rouge.
Is there a place you like to shop with your three daughters [all in their early 20s] that epitomizes Parisian chic? Isabel Marant; Le Bon Marché, the department store above La Grande Epicerie; Simone; and Garderobe, which sells just trousers.
What three things would you do if you suddenly had the day off and decided to pamper yourself?
Go to Dessange (at 7, rue de l’Odéon, in the 6th) to have my hair styled, a foot massage by Isabelle and a great manicure.
Where would you take your husband for a romantic date?
We’d go for a walk around the arcades of the Palais Royal, followed by lunch at the Grand Véfour.
What are the outstanding differences between your French and Anglo-Saxon girlfriends?
My American and English girlfriends are more independent and original. They’ll always make time for a drink at a branché spot. They tend to work in the fashion and art world or write marvelous books. They travel more adventurously and are less self-conscious and sensitive to what people think of them. My French friends have more serious jobs, are preoccupied by their careers or their husbands’ jobs, organize lovely dinner parties and make a real effort to be elegant and have great-looking hair.
As someone who travels a great deal to other cultural capitals, what makes Paris stand out today?
The quality of its museums; bookstores like La Hune, Librairie de l’Escalier and Galignani, and the old and rare booksellers; excellent antique drawings galleries. Paris is simply an exceptional place to shop, whether you’re in Belleville, around the Bastille or in St.-Germain.
INFO
Azabu 3, rue André Mazet, in the 6th.
01 46 33 72 05.
Le Comptoir du Relais 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, in the 6th.
01 43 29 12 05.
Garderobe 18, rue St.-Sulpice, in the 6th.
01 56 24 22 11.
La Hune 170, blvd St.-Germain, in the 6th.
01 45 48 35 85. Mon–Sat, 10 a.m.–7:45 p.m. Sun, 11 a.m.–7:45 p.m.
Librairie de l’Escalier 12, rue Monsieur le Prince, in the 6th.
01 43 54 39 89.
Maybe your next trip to Paris isn’t just around the corner—but your
heart and appetite have taken up permanent residence here. In that case,
you will definitely want The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook, recently published by Atria Books. This is the latest offering from Mireille Guiliano, everyone’s favorite expert Frenchwoman.
Packing for any trip can be frustrating and daunting. But when you’re
heading to the fashion capital of the world, the task can seem even more
arduous. You know that Parisians are stylish and chic, so you want to do your best to fit in. But you also want to be comfortable, without toting around unnecessary stuff.
Last week the girls and I cuddled up to watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. I love this film—all that pink and powdered blue, all that sumptuous silk and those decadent pastries—it really speaks to my inner girl. And being teens, my girls loved it, too. Suddenly it seemed I had found the perfect way to squeeze both some Mom time and some culture into them at once.
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Girl Talk with Ariane de Courcel
by Sandra Ban
Tuesday, July 20, 2010 at 10:12 AM
By Casey O’Brien Blondes
Few Parisians are as fully immersed in the world of contemporary art as Ariane de Courcel. As vice president of Friends of la Maison Rouge, she has a job that entails extensive fieldwork, including studio visits and gallery and museum private views, as well as tours of important collections, exhibitions and art fairs throughout Europe. This quintessentially elegant St.-Germain resident shares insider art tips and her carnet of favorite restaurants and shops.
La Maison Rouge is well known among contemporary-arts cognoscenti, but how would you describe its unique program to visitors who haven’t heard of you? What will they find there that other museums and galleries don’t offer?
Our status as a private foundation that functions without public funding allows us total freedom when creating exhibitions. We specialize in shows of private collections and installations by artists who are little known to the general public, usually before they’ve been shown by other French cultural institutions. The exhibitions reflect [founder] Antoine de Galbert’s taste and ideas. The physical space is unusual, and it emits a very special atmosphere.
Which are your four favorite Parisian museums?
Le Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, for the high caliber of its historic art collection, interspersed with works of contemporary art; the Palais de Tokyo, for its avant-garde creations and bohemian-grunge aesthetic; the Centre Pompidou, for the most beautiful views of Paris, superb exhibitions and the presentation of its collection; and Le Musée de la Vie Romantique, with its time-capsule ambience, hollyhocks blooming in the garden and intimate exhibitions.
Which galleries should we visit to see the best of emerging French artists and photographers?
Jocelyn Wolff, Anne de Villepoix, Françoise Paviot [for photography] and Michel Rein.
You’re something of an expert on the 6th Arrondissement, having lived there for 25 years. Which restaurants, shops and destinations are your neighborhood coups de coeur?
La Méditerranée [classic fish restaurant in a timeless locale]; Azabu [for Japanese]; Les Cinoches [contemporary chic bistro]; Le Comptoir du Relais [haute bistro for dinner, casual at lunch]; Pascal Mutel, for flowers; Jean-Paul Hévin, for chocolate; and Cire Trudon [royal candle maker since 1643].
The entry to La Maison Rouge.
What original Parisian souvenir would you offer as a gift to a girlfriend overseas?
An artist’s limited edition of a photograph or print from La Maison Rouge.
Is there a place you like to shop with your three daughters [all in their early 20s] that epitomizes Parisian chic?
Isabel Marant; Le Bon Marché, the department store above La Grande Epicerie; Simone; and Garderobe, which sells just trousers.
What three things would you do if you suddenly had the day off and decided to pamper yourself?
Go to Dessange (at 7, rue de l’Odéon, in the 6th) to have my hair styled, a foot massage by Isabelle and a great manicure.
Where would you take your husband for a romantic date?
We’d go for a walk around the arcades of the Palais Royal, followed by lunch at the Grand Véfour.
What are the outstanding differences between your French and Anglo-Saxon girlfriends?
My American and English girlfriends are more independent and original. They’ll always make time for a drink at a branché spot. They tend to work in the fashion and art world or write marvelous books. They travel more adventurously and are less self-conscious and sensitive to what people think of them. My French friends have more serious jobs, are preoccupied by their careers or their husbands’ jobs, organize lovely dinner parties and make a real effort to be elegant and have great-looking hair.
As someone who travels a great deal to other cultural capitals, what makes Paris stand out today?
The quality of its museums; bookstores like La Hune, Librairie de l’Escalier and Galignani, and the old and rare booksellers; excellent antique drawings galleries. Paris is simply an exceptional place to shop, whether you’re in Belleville, around the Bastille or in St.-Germain.
INFO
Azabu
3, rue André Mazet, in the 6th.
01 46 33 72 05.
Le Comptoir du Relais
9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, in the 6th.
01 43 29 12 05.
Garderobe
18, rue St.-Sulpice, in the 6th.
01 56 24 22 11.
La Hune
170, blvd St.-Germain, in the 6th.
01 45 48 35 85. Mon–Sat, 10 a.m.–7:45 p.m. Sun, 11 a.m.–7:45 p.m.
Librairie de l’Escalier
12, rue Monsieur le Prince, in the 6th.
01 43 54 39 89.
Editor's note: Why not download a do-it-yourself walking tour of Paris?
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Last week the girls and I cuddled up to watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. I love this film—all that pink and powdered blue, all that sumptuous silk and those decadent pastries—it really speaks to my inner girl. And being teens, my girls loved it, too. Suddenly it seemed I had found the perfect way to squeeze both some Mom time and some culture into them at once.
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