-
By Sylvia Sabes
If you’ve ever been to a large bookstore on a Saturday afternoon in Paris, you’ve seen teens strewn across the floor, folded up into every available nook and even perched precariously on the odd bookshelf. Whatever is going on? Comics! And if you head through the bookstore to the comics section (often the largest section in the store) you’ll see that there is someone, often an adult, taking up the floor space in front of every bookshelf. The French are serious about their comics. They consider comics to be the ninth art. Which is why you’ll find comic art in museum exhibitions. There is a really fantastic one running until November 28, at Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine. And I’d advise you to run there if you are at all interested in French art and culture.
"Archi & BD: La Ville Dessinée" is the name of the show. "Archi" because the exhibition explores architecture in comics and how the one has influenced the other. It is also a play on words. "Archi" is teenspeak for "très," as in, “Mom, you are archi-nul.” or “Gaston, your jean is archi-chic.” "BD" is the abbreviation for bande dessinée, which translates to "illustrated strips," the term for comics.
Comics as large as life.The exhibition is impressive. The layout of the pieces, the presentation of the work, the collection itself, the explanations (in English, too) and the interactive area at the end make for a great museum experience for everyone. Grandparents and toddlers and everyone in between can find something they like. Even if you are not a comic book fan, the illustrations on display are so diverse that it would be hard not to find something worthwhile. There is a Superman cartoon (in English) for the little kids to enjoy while the older ones make their way through 350 works from 150 of the best comic book artists in the world. From the first funny-paper illustrators, such as the American Winsor McCay, to the Belgian political commentators like Hervé to the contemporary citizen of the world Joost Swarte, it's all there.
An exhibition for kids who are museumed out.And the word is out, because there are actually lines at Cité de l’Architecture these days, which is remarkably rare. The museum has a stunning collection of architectural bits from across the globe, but when you live in the shadow of Notre Dame, it is hard to get excited about their display of Gothic structures. Which means the museum is usually empty, despite the café's stunning views of the Eiffel Tower and its private terrace, where visitors can sit and soak it all in peacefully, just inches from the tourist jumble. A tip for avoiding the lines: don’t go on a Sunday.
If you find yourself looking for something to do on a rainy day, or if it is scorching hot out and you’d like a break from shopping, this is the place to head. If your kids are simply museumed out, you can take them to "Archi & BD" and they’ll think you are archi-cool.
Editor's note: For do-it-yourself insider tours of Paris, download our Girls’ Guide Tours.
You might also like:What to do while visiting Paris with a teen, in 500 words or less. GAWK! I can't do that. As a mother and an interloper in the lives of several local teens, I have had to answer this question in most of my weekend planning for years.
Children are welcome at many local restaurants, and if the three-hour meals with hefty bills are a bit much for your family, there are plenty of gourmet alternatives that allow foodie parents to enjoy their visit while keeping junior happy. 
Bands, Beaches and Bastille Day: Summer in Paris
Coming to Paris in July or August? High summer in the city is one long social whirl.
-
By Robin Locker
Bussed a move: Tour the town on Soirée's mobile dance floor.New Hotels
Located in the heart of Paris, near the Champs Élysées, is the new Hotel les Jardins de la Villa. The hotel is a haven of greenery, featuring 33 rooms and junior suites—many of which have balconies or terraces graced with flowers. Others overlook a charming landscaped courtyard. Amenities include free Wi-Fi and a fitness room complete with a hammam and sauna. Rooms, beginning at 290 euros, are decorated in a palette of cognac, plum, fuchsia and black and white.
Garden Party: Hotel les Jardins de la Villa.New Museums and Exhibitions
This fun museum of fairground arts isn't technically new, but it somehow remains off the radar. Located in the 12th Arrondissement, the Musée des Arts Forains houses the largest collection of show objects in Europe, from merry-go-rounds to fair rides of the belle epoque. Guided tours, which are available year-round by appointment only, last 90 minutes, and allow you to try some of the rides.
Through August 22, the Rodin Museum is hosting an exhibition of some lesser-known decorative works from the revered French sculptor. Included are vases, sculptures and reliefs created as parts of buildings or monuments.
Fashionistas will delight in the new exhibition "History of Ideal Contemporary Fashion," at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The first of this two-volume retrospective covers the 1970s and '80s and runs through October 10.
New Spas
In the heart of the Oberkampf neighborhood, near the Place de la République, an oasis of fitness and relaxation has emerged. L'Échappée Belle houses three floors of everything a girl can dream of, from yoga and Pilates to sauna, hammam and massage. There is even a tea room and library. Access to the hammam is 35 euros, and one-hour massages start at 70 euros.
Hot Shopping
Spanish high-end brand Balenciaga has opened Balenciaga Homme—its first men's retail space in Paris. Located at 5, rue de Varenne, in the 7th, the two-story boutique combines a submarine theme with a minimalist design and stocks ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, jewelry and glasses.
Peeping Toe: On display at Rupert Sanderson's new Paris digs.
Photo © Rupert SandersonLuxe shoe lovers will delight in designer Rupert Sanderson's first shop in Paris, on rue des Petits Champs, near the Palais Royal. Stylish flats, boots, stilettos, peep toes and platforms are all on offer at top-of-the-line prices.
New Nightlife
Soirée Bus has created a truly hip and unique way of touring the City of Light. They organize evening events for both individuals and companies aboard a bus decked out as a mobile club—complete with video screens, lighting and a DJ system. For summer, check out the Paris Night Ride, a two-hour tour of the city, or Paris Night Ride in Pubs, which takes you from pub to pub while you groove on the bus's dance floor. Tickets from 28 euros.
Hot Happenings
The three-day pop music festival Rock en Seine will take place from August 27 to 29. Acts including Massive Attack, the Ting Tings, Paolo Nutini and Arcade Fire will perform at the Domaine National de Saint-Cloud, just outside Paris.
If you like classical music in a garden setting, you're in luck! On weekends through September 26, enjoy the Festival Classique au Vert in the Parc Floral de Paris. This year's program celebrates the Romantic era with the music of Chopin, Schumann, Mendelssohn and Liszt.
Amuse your senses at St.-Tropez's new Muse Hotel.New for Jet-setters
Leave it to France to come up with the only botanical-themed amusement park! Terra Botanica, located in Angers, in the Loire Valley, encompasses a former golf course and airstrip. Though there are no roller coasters, there is plenty for both adults and children to explore in the four structured garden universes: Coveted, Generous, Mysterious and Tamed. One of the most compelling attractions allows you to follow the journey of two water droplets from roots to plant leaves in the park's 3-D theater.
St.-Tropez just got a little hotter (and chicer!) with the opening of the Muse Hotel—a luxe sanctuary in the heart of an ecological garden. Located in Ramatuelle, the hotel tops out at only 15 suites, each named and decorated for the muse it represents. Beyond the restaurant, bar and spa, exclusive services include a Bentley shuttle to the beach; round-the-clock room service; iPads, iPhones and PlayStations in every suite; and a "sun butler" to slather on creams and lotions. Oh, sign me up for that last one! Suites from 600 euros per night.
INFOL'Échappée Belle
64, rue de la Folie Méricourt, in the 11th.
01 58 30 12 50.Editor's note: For our handpicked hotels and tours, visit our Book It page.
You might also like:
With an increasing number of women embarking on the budget backpacker road, Parisian hostels are upping their stakes in the “cheap and chic” game—with an emphasis on chic.
The disorienting maze of streets winding around La Butte Montmartre is home to many a unique boutique—you just need to know where to look.
Bands, Beaches and Bastille Day: Summer in Paris
Coming to Paris in July or August? High summer in the city is one long social whirl.
-
Few Parisians are as fully immersed in the world of contemporary art as Ariane de Courcel. As vice president of Friends of la Maison Rouge, she has a job that entails extensive fieldwork, including studio visits and gallery and museum private views, as well as tours of important collections, exhibitions and art fairs throughout Europe. This quintessentially elegant St.-Germain resident shares insider art tips and her carnet of favorite restaurants and shops.La Maison Rouge is well known among contemporary-arts cognoscenti, but how would you describe its unique program to visitors who haven’t heard of you? What will they find there that other museums and galleries don’t offer?
Our status as a private foundation that functions without public funding allows us total freedom when creating exhibitions. We specialize in shows of private collections and installations by artists who are little known to the general public, usually before they’ve been shown by other French cultural institutions. The exhibitions reflect [founder] Antoine de Galbert’s taste and ideas. The physical space is unusual, and it emits a very special atmosphere.Which are your four favorite Parisian museums?
Le Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, for the high caliber of its historic art collection, interspersed with works of contemporary art; the Palais de Tokyo, for its avant-garde creations and bohemian-grunge aesthetic; the Centre Pompidou, for the most beautiful views of Paris, superb exhibitions and the presentation of its collection; and Le Musée de la Vie Romantique, with its time-capsule ambience, hollyhocks blooming in the garden and intimate exhibitions.Which galleries should we visit to see the best of emerging French artists and photographers?
Jocelyn Wolff, Anne de Villepoix, Françoise Paviot [for photography] and Michel Rein.You’re something of an expert on the 6th Arrondissement, having lived there for 25 years. Which restaurants, shops and destinations are your neighborhood coups de coeur?
La Méditerranée [classic fish restaurant in a timeless locale]; Azabu [for Japanese]; Les Cinoches [contemporary chic bistro]; Le Comptoir du Relais [haute bistro for dinner, casual at lunch]; Pascal Mutel, for flowers; Jean-Paul Hévin, for chocolate; and Cire Trudon [royal candle maker since 1643].
The entry to La Maison Rouge.
What original Parisian souvenir would you offer as a gift to a girlfriend overseas?
An artist’s limited edition of a photograph or print from La Maison Rouge.Is there a place you like to shop with your three daughters [all in their early 20s] that epitomizes Parisian chic?
Isabel Marant; Le Bon Marché, the department store above La Grande Epicerie; Simone; and Garderobe, which sells just trousers.What three things would you do if you suddenly had the day off and decided to pamper yourself?
Go to Dessange (at 7, rue de l’Odéon, in the 6th) to have my hair styled, a foot massage by Isabelle and a great manicure.Where would you take your husband for a romantic date?
We’d go for a walk around the arcades of the Palais Royal, followed by lunch at the Grand Véfour.What are the outstanding differences between your French and Anglo-Saxon girlfriends?
My American and English girlfriends are more independent and original. They’ll always make time for a drink at a branché spot. They tend to work in the fashion and art world or write marvelous books. They travel more adventurously and are less self-conscious and sensitive to what people think of them. My French friends have more serious jobs, are preoccupied by their careers or their husbands’ jobs, organize lovely dinner parties and make a real effort to be elegant and have great-looking hair.As someone who travels a great deal to other cultural capitals, what makes Paris stand out today?
The quality of its museums; bookstores like La Hune, Librairie de l’Escalier and Galignani, and the old and rare booksellers; excellent antique drawings galleries. Paris is simply an exceptional place to shop, whether you’re in Belleville, around the Bastille or in St.-Germain.INFO
Azabu
3, rue André Mazet, in the 6th.
01 46 33 72 05.Le Comptoir du Relais
9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, in the 6th.
01 43 29 12 05.Garderobe
18, rue St.-Sulpice, in the 6th.
01 56 24 22 11.La Hune
170, blvd St.-Germain, in the 6th.
01 45 48 35 85. Mon–Sat, 10 a.m.–7:45 p.m. Sun, 11 a.m.–7:45 p.m.Librairie de l’Escalier
12, rue Monsieur le Prince, in the 6th.
01 43 54 39 89.
Editor's note: Why not download a do-it-yourself walking tour of Paris?
You might also like:
Another French Revolution (With Chocolate and Champagne, of Course)
Maybe your next trip to Paris isn’t just around the corner—but your heart and appetite have taken up permanent residence here. In that case, you will definitely want The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook, recently published by Atria Books. This is the latest offering from Mireille Guiliano, everyone’s favorite expert Frenchwoman.
Eight Paris Essentials and Why You Need Them
Packing for any trip can be frustrating and daunting. But when you’re heading to the fashion capital of the world, the task can seem even more arduous. You know that Parisians are stylish and chic, so you want to do your best to fit in. But you also want to be comfortable, without toting around unnecessary stuff.
Girl Time with Marie Antoinette
Last week the girls and I cuddled up to watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. I love this film—all that pink and powdered blue, all that sumptuous silk and those decadent pastries—it really speaks to my inner girl. And being teens, my girls loved it, too. Suddenly it seemed I had found the perfect way to squeeze both some Mom time and some culture into them at once.
-
By Robin Locker
Hôtel le Canal.New Hotels
Hôtel le Canal
Located in the 19th Arrondissement, near both the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l'Est, the Hôtel le Canal has been recently renovated. This boutique hotel was designed to be sustainable, producing its own heat and hot water, thanks to solar energy. The decor of its 36 comfortable bedrooms (2 are accessible to guests with disabilities) is inspired by cinema themes, and includes wood floors, soothing blue walls, earth-toned accents and relaxing lighting. Each guest room also comes with a desk, telephone and flat-screen television. Rooms start at 63 euros.New Museums and Exhibitions
Suite Elle Décoration
For the third consecutive year, the former apartment of Jacques Carlu (architect of the Palais de Chaillot) will be in the hands of another great designer. This time Jean Paul Gaultier has re-created the space, which will be on view until October 2011. Gaultier's signature nautical theme of blue stripes on a white background is present throughout the apartment, and the lounge has been transformed into an indoor garden, with green vegetation gracing the walls and furnishings. Visits are limited to Saturday and Sunday from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., and cost 3 euros. The space can even be rented out for private events.Paris in Love
You still have time to catch the “Paris d'Amour” photo exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville. Through July 31 about 100 photos taken at weddings and civil unions in Paris by photographer Gérard Uféras will be on display, showcasing weddings and couples celebrating in the City of Light. The exhibition is open from Monday to Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission is free.Antoine Watteau’s Engravings
The Musée du Louvre is hosting the exhibition “Antoine Watteau and the Art of Engraving” until October 11. The show will include about 100 Watteau works, illustrating the art of engraving during the 18th century. Admission is included in the museum ticket.
The new Lucien Pellat-Finet boutique on rue St.-Honoré.Hot Shopping
Desigual Shop, the atypical Spanish brand, opened a flagship store in the 9th Arrondissement, steps from the Opéra Garnier. Clothing for men, women and kids, as well as hip accessories, are on offer at affordable prices.
A brand new vintage boutique called Goldymama has opened on rue Surmelin, in the 20th Arrondissement. Funky vintage prints, evening wear, designer items, handbags, hats and jewelry at bargain prices make this a fun place to shop. You can even shop online!
Known for luxe and unique cashmere, Lucien Pellat-Finet has opened a two-story boutique on rue St.-Honoré, in the 1st Arrondissement. The sparkling, bright white interior shows off his high-priced lines for men, women and children, as well as home furnishings.
Hot Happenings
Fête Foraine du Jardin des Tuileries
Through August 22 this annual funfair is enjoyed by children and adults, making it one of the biggest events of summer. For two months the Tuileries gardens is transformed into a carnival, with fairground rides, colored balloons, food and more. Don't miss the Ferris wheel, which offers up stunning views of Paris both day and night.Open-Air Cinema Festival
From July 17 through August 22, locals and visitors alike will flock to the Parc de la Villette for Cinéma en Plein Air, the annual open-air cinema festival. Bring a blanket, stake out your slice of lawn and watch 1 of 36 different films projected onto the big outdoor screen. Some may even be in English. The best part is that admission is free!New for Jet-setters
Follow the Parisians and head out of town to the French Riviera for your summer vacation. Head to St.-Tropez, where Louis Vuitton recently opened a renovated boutique on rue François Sibilli, which resembles a lavish Mediterranean villa with a beach. There you'll find stylish resort wear to don during your visit. The inner courtyard boasts fragrant orange and jasmine trees.
Hot Paris ReadsA new, alternative guidebook has made an appearance on the Paris radar. 24 Hours Paris, by Marsha Moore, groups content by time, rather than by activity. The book offers a fresh look at exploring hidden areas of the city, and it’s receiving rave reviews.
Editor's note: For Girls’ Guide handpicked hotels and tours, see our Book It page.
You might also like:
Soldes: The Bon Plan of AttackI’ve been through four rounds of Parisian soldes. Which is enough to have helped me learn a helpful strategy or two, but few enough that I’m still willing to go to battle in the name of French fashion. The summer sales begin Wednesday, June 30, and run until Tuesday, August 3. Here are les bons pointers so you, too, can take home some serious shopping spoils.
Your Summer Couture Special: Time Travel at the Musée des Arts DécoratifsJust in case you can’t afford the latest haute couture (the shows run through Thursday, July 8), Paris has the perfect quick fix for any fashion fanatic. Even if you have already drooled over the YSL retrospective, you’ll find yet more vintage style at the Arts Décoratifs.
Speaking Touristically: Paris by Wheels or Water?
Want to see Paris in a really special way? I recommend the ultimate in summer touring—via a Citroën Deux Chevaux, or 2CV. Engineered by Pierre-Jules Boulanger, and first produced in 1949 but last manufactured in the 1990s, these beloved cars are mythic.
-
By Cynthia Rose
Graffiti portrait on a fence, blvd Raspail, 2009, by Pedrô.
Paris, the capital of la vie de bohème! The city where artists love and starve together, shock the bourgeoisie, then die tragically young. These myths were set in motion in 1843 by a magazine series called “Scenes from a Bohemian Life.” They were tales from a hard-up poet named Henri Murger that revealed his own daily struggles as well as those of his friends.Murger’s stories became a book as well as a hit play (one that later inspired Puccini’s opera La Bohème), and their popularity brought Paris a wave of would-be artists. By the mid-1800s students had flooded into the capital, each determined to become a “bohemian.” One of them, however, did more than outstrip Murger’s models—he completely redefined youthful decadence. This was Arthur Rimbaud, the subject of a trendy Marais exhibition, “Rimbaudmania: The Eternity of an Icon,” at the Galerie des Bibliothèques, in the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris.
In 1871, at the age of 17, this well-schooled Catholic boy made a beeline for Paris. He was keen to reject both family and sobriety, and his search for urban experience led to stormy affairs (most notably with the poet Paul Verlaine, who left his wife and child for Rimbaud, whom he fought with and shot at). But despite his dissolute life, Rimbaud penned sentiments that caused no less than Victor Hugo to call him “an infant Shakespeare.” Rimbaud’s volumes The Drunken Boat, A Season in Hell and Illuminations endure as cornerstones of his bad-boy philosophy: art requires a “systematic derangement of the senses.”
Rimbaud mugs by CafePress.
At the age of 20 Rimbaud renounced writing forever. He spent the rest of his days traveling to Indonesia, Cyprus, Africa and the Middle East. By 37 his restless soul was gone—consumed by exotic locations, lovers of both sexes and adventures that included arms dealing.“Rimbaudmania” begins with a clutch of manuscripts, handwritten letters and rare photos, all that remains of the man. Yet the exhibition proves his legend is truly worldwide, one that spans pop and opera, comics and fashion, painting and adverts. You can hear Rimbaud’s poetry in a dozen tongues, then see versions told as bandes dessinées (graphic novels) and Japanese manga.
One room is devoted to Rimbaud’s influence on music and film, and it’s striking to see the role he played in 1970s punk. Protopunk musician Richard Hell took his name from the poet, while guitarist Tom Verlaine baptized himself after Rimbaud’s lover. One of Rimbaud’s greatest fans has always been Patti Smith, who began her career singing “Go, Rimbaud, go!” There are many others to hear and see: the Clash, Yves Montand, Barbara Hendricks, Serge Gainsbourg, Bob Dylan, Van Morrison. Leonardo DiCaprio played Rimbaud on-screen, and there is a “Season in Hell” photo series by Robert Mapplethorpe. The exhibition features visual art from many genres, including works by Cocteau, Picasso and Giacometti, as well as graffiti portraits ripped from Paris boulevards.
Among the "fetish objects" in the show is this brooch with a picture
of Rimbaud, by Jodi Bloom.
The show’s intrepid curator, Claude Jeancolas, author of 17 books on the poet, has even filled a room with “fetish objects” evoking Rimbaud. These range from key rings and pins to furniture and fashion. One contributor to the collection is Jodi Bloom, a jewelry maker, who lives in Washington, D.C. She explains, “Claude ordered a Rimbaud rosary from my website. . . . When I emailed to say thank-you and give the delivery time frame, he wrote back and said my piece would be in the show.”Such discoveries typify the eternal rebel who is, according to Jeancolas, “omnipresent in the arts. He is everywhere and, certainly, in cyberspace—home to some of our most unexpected, poetic encounters.”
“Rimbaudmania: The Eternity of an Icon” is on view at the Galerie des Bibliothèques through August 1. From September 15 to December 15, the exhibition will be at the Musée Arthur Rimbaud, in the poet’s hometown, Charleville-Mézières (Champagne-Ardennes).
Want more?
You can watch a virtual preview of the exhibition here. To learn about the history of the French bohemian lifestyle (in English), click here.
Editor's note: To find the best hotel to suit your particular tastes and interests, click here.
You might also like:
Top Anglophone Bookstores in Paris
However comfortable you are speaking and reading French, there may be times when you long for a quiet read in English. Fret not. Since Edith Wharton’s day, Parisians have loved catching up with Anglo-Saxon writing.
Dates for the Diary: ExhibitionsHere are a few current and upcoming exhibitions in Paris that I’m getting excited about, ranging from painting to photography to music. I hope that you’ll all feel inspired, too! The first two are closing soon, so get hopping.
Destination Art: Culture That's Worth the Trip
It is below zero on a Wednesday morning, and the line at the Grand Palais is an hour long for ticket holders. And yet they stand. From Klimt to Picasso, from Warhol to Rodin, the French love their art—which means there are great shows to attend throughout the year.
-
By Cynthia Rose
Design by Thierry Mugler. Photo by Guy Marineau/
Courtesy the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
Just in case you can’t afford the latest haute couture (the shows run through Thursday, July 8), Paris has the perfect quick fix for any fashion fanatic. Even if you have already drooled over the YSL retrospective, you’ll find yet more vintage style at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. There, until October 10, you can view the best of European fashion from the 1970s through ’80s. "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion" boasts such names as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Kenzo, Thierry Mugler and Yohji Yamamoto.
Design by Chanel. Photo by Dominique Maitre/
Courtesy the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
This show is the first installment of an ambitious “complete history” that has been curated by the expert Olivier Saillard. (Part two, covering the years 1990–2010, will open on November 25.) Saillard, head of fashion exhibitions at the Arts Décoratifs since 2002, was recently appointed director of the formidable Musée Galliera, the fashion museum of Paris. Although closed for restoration until 2011, the Musée Galliera has made cameos in films like Sex and the City and The Devil Wears Prada.This exhibition gives us a taste of what the talented Saillard will do there. In it, to outline the progress of modern style, he mobilizes “key pieces from twenty years of creation,” augmented by 200 documents, films and video.
Design by Azzedine Alaïa. Photo by
Dominique Maitre/Courtesy the Musée
des Arts Décoratifs.
All of it is framed by two events in couture. The first is the 1971 premiere of Yves Saint Laurent’s “Scandal” show, an event that launched platform shoes, padded shoulders and 1940s retro. The other is “Rap-Pieuses,” or “Religious Rappers,” a collection shown by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1990. Both merged a new look with a social moment, but each pointed fashion in a different way. Saillard deliberately arranged his show with these two “bad boys” to illustrate how modern couture became so involved with celebrity.
Design by Thierry Mugler. Photo by Dominique
Maitre/Courtesy the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.
The show also includes triumphs by less well-remembered names like Madame Grès, Azzedine Alaïa, Dorothée Bis and Claude Montana. Special treats include early Issey Miyake, as well as archive pieces by Comme de Garçons and Ter et Bantine (a label run by Chantal Thomass between 1967 and 1975).Above all, the exhibition puts current couture in context. Today, for instance, “Kaiser Karl” Lagerfeld seems to be everywhere. (Recently he “re-designed” an issue of the French newspaper Libération, drawing even the ads.) This show helps you see how he emerged and changed, from his early designs at Chloé to his first work at Chanel. The same is true of Christian Lacroix. He’s shown both as the designer behind the Jean Patou label, then, under his own name, as the king of late-’80s luxury.
Design by Jean Paul Gaultier. Photo by
Dominique Maitre/Courtesy the Musée des
Arts Décoratifs.
In 2009, before he mounted this show, Saillard published his research as a luscious book that is still available. You may not want to lug home Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine, but this, the perfect souvenir, is easily ordered online from Amazon.ca, Amazon.fr or FNAC."The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion" is at the Arts Décoratifs through October 10. There are a wide range of activities and guided visits related to the exhibition, and the museum has even created electronic postcards for you to send.
Editor's note: Try the Girls' Guide's handpicked fabulous French fashion tours.
You might also like:
Soldes: The Bon Plan of AttackI’ve been through four rounds of Parisian soldes. Which is enough to have helped me learn a helpful strategy or two, but few enough that I’m still willing to go to battle in the name of French fashion. The summer sales begin Wednesday, June 30, and run until Tuesday, August 3. Here are les bons pointers so you, too, can take home some serious shopping spoils.
Dates for the Diary: ExhibitionsHere are a few current and upcoming exhibitions in Paris that I’m getting excited about, ranging from painting to photography to music. I hope that you’ll all feel inspired, too! The first two are closing soon, so get hopping.
Edvard Munch
Pinacothèque
Through August 8
Think of Edvard Munch, and his famous Scream is likely the first image that pops up, overshadowing much of his other work.Another French Revolution (With Chocolate and Champagne, of Course)
Maybe your next trip to Paris isn’t just around the corner—but your heart and appetite have taken up permanent residence here. In that case, you will definitely want The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook, recently published by Atria Books. This is the latest offering from Mireille Guiliano, everyone’s favorite expert Frenchwoman.
-
By Amy Barnard
An André Kertész retrospective will be on view this fall at the Jeu de Paume.
Here are a few current and upcoming exhibitions in Paris that I’m getting excited about, ranging from painting to photography to music. I hope that you’ll all feel inspired, too! The first two are closing soon, so get hopping.Edvard Munch
Pinacothèque
Through August 8
Think of Edvard Munch, and his famous Scream is likely the first image that pops up, overshadowing much of his other work. This exhibition focuses on Munch’s early blurring of the lines between mediums and processes, and on his importance to modernism.“Les Promesses du Passé”
Pompidou Center
Through July 19
This exhibition examines the former European divide as well as our understanding of art history. It spotlights some 50 artists from the former Eastern Europe, looking at their influence on a new generation of international artists.Russia and Romanticism
Musée de la Vie Romantique
September 28, 2010–January 16, 2011
Part of the Russia-France project, this exhibition will document paintings, sculptures and objets d’art produced during the Romantic movement in 18th-century Russia.André Kertész
Jeu de Paume
September 28, 2010–Feb 6, 2011
This will be the first European retrospective dedicated to the lengthy career of photographer André Kertész, whose images appear strikingly modern. The exhibition will present how Kertész developed “a true photographic language,” while exploring his most persistent themes of distortion and loneliness.Music under Lenin and Stalin
Cité de la Musique
October 12, 2010–January 16, 2011
The topics of artistic freedom and the place of the artist in society are at the core of this exhibition, which looks at the role artists played during the Communist period of Lenin and Stalin. It questions whether artistic expression can coexist with political aggression.Editor's note: For hotels and tours handpicked by the Girls' Guide, consult our Book-It page.
You might also like:
Paris Plans Rained Out? Survival Tips Part Two: Culture Bender!
In Paris, spring rainfall hovers around two inches per month. Should a shower derail your plans, it’s nice to have backup—especially one spot where you can spend all day. As long as it’s not a Tuesday, take my tip and head to the museum complex at Beaubourg, a.k.a. the Centre Pompidou.
I have a confession—I hate emails. As a way of doing business they're tolerable, a necessary evil. Second confession—I write letters. Just tell me you aren’t twice as thrilled to open an envelope addressed to you from a friend or lover as you are to open something in your inbox.
Recently I met Casanova. We were in the courtyard of the historic and opulent and very luxurious Plaza Athenée hotel, surrounded by beds of edible flowers, walls of lettuce, a seductive sparkling rosé wine, oysters, truffle butter, wild strawberries and very large morsels of raw meat.
-
By Sylvia Sabes
The château at Chantilly, where the sphinx is greeted with a tweak.
Les châteaux de Paris? Sounds odd, because when we talk about the châteaux region of France, thoughts automatically travel to the Loire. But historically Paris was and still is the political, commercial and religious center of France. Everybody who was anybody needed to be near the capital, and the elite required glorious estates where they could impress others, assert their own importance, tend to their properties and escape the pressures of city living while staying close to home. The châteaux are all within an hour’s ride from the city by public transport, with large grounds attached, perfect for an afternoon picnic. This is great for visitors to Paris who want to make a day trip of touring the royal residences.At the top of many people’s list is Versailles, which is easy to get to on the RER C. The buildings are stunning, the grounds spectacular. Of all the châteaux in France, Versailles is the most outrageous for its opulent decor and vibrant history: ornate silk brocades, gargantuan Baccarat chandeliers and gilt everything bring the past to life. Once there, you could spend days visiting the palace, gardens, Grand Trianon, and Marie Antoinette’s estate; rowing in the Grand Canal; and sitting in the shade of the magnificent plane trees while enjoying lunch at one of the many on-site restaurants.
A regal swan at Fontainebleau.
If you’re yearning for romantic tales, you can take a pleasant train ride from the Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau to visit the courtyard where Napoléon and Josephine bid their final adieux. The château boasts 700 years of royal history, with rich tapestries as well as the apartments of the royal mistress, Madame de Maintenon, and the young queen, Marie Antoinette. The château is enchanting, with a quaint village an easy stroll away. You can stop in town for lunch or to create a gourmet picnic to be enjoyed in the château's forest. Parisians head there to walk their dogs, go horseback riding or hike, and many Europeans travel the continent for the forest's excellent rock-climbing opportunities.A 22-minute ride from the Gare du Nord, the Château de Chantilly is another good option, with stables that are fit for a king, quite literally. You can attend equestrian shows, visit the stables and even spend a day at the races. The art collection is world renowned, particularly for its series of drawings by artists like Michelangelo, Rubens and Van Dyck; it also includes Rafael's Three Graces. Chantilly is the French word for “whipped cream,” and the château's kitchen is where the chef Vatel invented this gossamer dessert for none other than Louis XIV. You can taste some for yourself on the château’s grounds, at the gourmet Restaurant du Hameau.
The Château de St.-Germain-en-Laye houses a museum focusing on archaeology. The vista of Paris as you arrive on the grounds from the ultraconvenient RER A is simply stunning. Like the other châteaux, this one comes with a small forest to stroll through. It also has a very upscale little village that’s great if you feel like lunch or a quiet shopping experience that’s far from the quicker pace of Paris but just minutes away.
The medieval fortress at Pierrefonds.
There are many other fascinating châteaux to visit, like the privately owned Vaux le Vicomte, which inspired Louis XIV’s Versailles and the Gérard Depardieu film Vatel; or Pierrefonds, which still looks like a fortress from the warring days of the Middle Ages. But these châteaux are harder to reach by public transportation and would best be visited by car.If you simply can’t get out of the city, you can console yourself with the knowledge that the first and foremost palace of France, still the largest and most visited in Europe today, is the Louvre. People go there for the art, but it is fascinating to visit the foundations (and model) of the medieval château, and see the collection of royal jewels and the sumptuous apartments of Napoléon III.
Read more about day trips from Paris in our post here.
Editor's note: Why not take a Vespa tour to Versailles? Matt from Left Bank Scooters can set you up.
You might also like:
Speaking Touristically: Paris by Wheels or Water?
Want to see Paris in a really special way? I recommend the ultimate in summer touring—via a Citroën Deux Chevaux, or 2CV. Engineered by Pierre-Jules Boulanger, and first produced in 1949 but last manufactured in the 1990s, these beloved cars are mythic.
Girl Time with Marie Antoinette
Last week the girls and I cuddled up to watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. I love this film—all that pink and powdered blue, all that sumptuous silk and those decadent pastries—it really speaks to my inner girl.
Sunday Plans: La Promenade Plantée
Don’t let the famous gardens of Paris’s past overshadow its contemporary rivals. The city is home to renowned green design that has been setting trends around the world.
-
By Sylvia Sabes
A portrait of Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun hangs in the Petit Trianon.
Last week the girls and I cuddled up to watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. I love this film—all that pink and powdered blue, all that sumptuous silk and those decadent pastries—it really speaks to my inner girl. And being teens, my girls loved it, too. Suddenly it seemed I had found the perfect way to squeeze both some Mom time and some culture into them at once. So Sunday we were off to Versailles to visit the queen or, rather, her little piece of the grounds, the Domaine de Marie Antoinette.The Domaine includes the Petit Trianon, the gardens and the queen’s hamlet. The little Trianon is just that: tiny, the perfect size for a family visit. You see the réchauffoir where meals were heated after having been cooked off-premises to avoid nasty odors, and the mechanical wall lifts Marie had created to increase her closet space, as well as beribboned garden tools. Upstairs the setting is more opulent and includes a replica of her bedroom in silks and tapestries.
The hamlet.
The gardens are English style, very wild and overgrown by French standards, and a lovely break from the city. The real escape, however, is the hamlet, a charming replica of a village to which even local families flock on the weekend to see the sheep and other livestock. It is all so picturesque and idyllic that you can't help but wonder if Walt Disney had visited before setting up his theme parks.
Sheep and other livestock at the hamlet.
The château of Versailles and its grounds are a day trip on their own, so you may have to settle for getting your Marie fix here in Paris. The Musée de Carnavalet, in the 3rd Arrondissement, is a great place to start. The queen once haunted this neighborhood herself, so you'll be walking in Marie’s footsteps as you visit the museum's collection of her personal belongings, including a very precious little shoe.Less cheerful but more intimate are the queen’s rooms at the Conciergerie, where she spent her final days. Here you’ll see her prison room, as well as the prayer area and the courtyard she crossed before being beheaded.
Royal art.
To lighten the mood you can visit Debauve et Gallais, the official purveyors of chocolate to the king, where the pastilles that Marie so adored are still made. Or take a short walk to Ladurée, the sumptuous pastry shop and tea salon that supplied all of those breathtaking cakes for Coppola's film. Sit down in the terribly feminine chinoiserie tea salon and follow the queen's orders: “If they have no bread, let them eat cake.”** Yes, I know she didn't really say that; but it’s a line worth repeating!
Editor's note: Rachel from French Links gives a Marie Antoinette tour. Click here to book one (be sure to mention the Girls' Guide).
You might also like:Paris Plans Rained Out? Survival Tips Part Two: Culture Bender!
In Paris, spring rainfall hovers around two inches per month. Should a shower derail your plans, it’s nice to have backup—especially one spot where you can spend all day. As long as it’s not a Tuesday, take my tip and head to the museum complex at Beaubourg, a.k.a. the Centre Pompidou.
Sunday Plans: La Promenade Plantée
Don’t let the famous gardens of Paris’s past overshadow its contemporary rivals. The city is home to renowned green design that has been setting trends around the world.
Eating Out in
Paris . . . With KidsParisians rarely dine out with their children. Doing so is not practical when restaurants open at eight o’clock in the evening and the kids should be in bed by nine. It is expensive, and it is reserved as a very special treat. But children are welcome at many local restaurants.
-
By Robin Locker
The new French Riviera beach club. Photo by James Merrell.New Hotels
Hôtel Secret de Paris
Luxurious and beautifully designed, this new boutique hotel, located in the Trinité neighborhood, in the 9th Arrondissement, offers 29 guest rooms. The hotel features themed rooms (think Musée d'Orsay, Moulin Rouge and Opéra Garnier) with ambient lighting, and amenities like a spa steam bath, a sauna, a fitness center and massage.One by the Five
Though it isn't brand new, One by the Five is certainly a cool new concept in hotels. It is a unique accommodation, more like an apartment that a hotel, that offers three bathrooms, a kitchen area (with a “love elixir” recipe and a stocked pantry) and a small terrace. It's loaded with special little touches (some racier than others!) and is a perfect place to bring a partner for an unforgettable night or two.New Museums and Exhibitions
Valentino Fashion Museum
Rumor has it that designer Valentino Garavani is set to open a new fashion museum in July, which coincidentally is timed perfectly with Paris Haute Couture week. Reportedly the museum will be housed at Château de Wideville, which is just outside Paris, in Yvelines. We'll keep you updated as we find out more!Sonia Rykiel Dessine
Fashion designer Sonia Rykiel, known for her flaming red hair and signature stripes, is showcasing something other than fashion in an exhibition at Galerie Catherine Houard, in St.-Germain-des-Prés. More than 200 of Rykiel’s artworks will be on display until June 24.
Hôtel Secret de Paris.Hot Shopping
Ralph Lauren
The 13,000-square-foot Ralph Lauren flagship store recently opened on the tony boulevard St.-Germain. The store, which took four years to renovate, offers his signature collections and, in a twist found only in Paris, includes a restaurant serving American fare like burgers and steaks from his own Colorado ranch, and fried chicken.Printemps
If you are heading to Paris this summer, you should include a visit to Printemps. From June 30 to August 3, shop 'til you drop at the annual summer sale, where you'll find discounts of up to 50 percent on designer fashions and other select items throughout the store. And just to make it more convenient, the store has extended hours on Thursday evenings, until ten o’clock.Hot Happenings
Fête de la Musique
Held annually on the summer solstice, the Fête de la Musique will take place this year on June 21. The lively music festival turns the streets, bars and cafés of Paris into a cheerful celebration of jazz, hip-hop, rock, techno and other music styles. The best part is that it's completely free!Shakespeare Garden Theater Festival
From now through September 26, the Shakespeare Garden Theater Festival is taking place in the outdoor theater located in the Bois de Boulogne park. It is the perfect romantic setting to watch this year's program, which includes La Locandiera, Twelfth Night and of course A Midsummer Night's Dream.Cupcake Camp Paris
On July 4 cupcake lovers from all over Paris will come together at Bistrot Vivienne, in the 2nd Arrondissement, for an afternoon of cupcake eating, contests, fun and so much more. The first annual Cupcake Camp Paris is a nonprofit event, with all proceeds being donated to the charity Rebuilding Haiti Now.Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes
On selected dates between June 19 and August 28, the Parc du Château de Versailles will be hosting a spectacular show called the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes. Enjoy a magical evening in the royal gardens of Louis XIV, where at nightfall the gardens, ponds and fountains will come alive with colored lights and French Baroque music. The sound and visual journey ends with fireworks.
New Bars and Clubs
Biloba
Paris recently welcomed a new "green" bar to the city center. Biloba, in the 1st Arrondissement, is an eco-cultural bar and tearoom, the first of its kind in the City of Light. The design is eco-friendly, the lighting is by a renewable-energy company and 5 percent of the profits are donated to Friends of the Earth. On offer are organic food, tea and "green" cocktails.New for Jet-setters
Beauvallon Sur Mer Beach Club
The Beauvallon Sur Mer beach club is slated to reopen this month in the South of France. The stunning property is open to all and easily accessible by road or boat. It will offer contemporary culture alongside authentic Provençal cuisine, all within a spectacular setting, on a private sandy beach overlooking the clear turquoise waters of the bay of St.-Tropez. Sign me up now!
Editor's note: For the best hotels, consult our faves.
You might also like:
Franco Files: The Merchant Is Always Right
My first winter in Paris, I was cold. I was 20 years old and a student without much income, so I did what students still do today and headed to Les Halles in central Paris.
Top Anglophone Bookstores in Paris
However comfortable you are speaking and reading French, there may be times when you long for a quiet read in English. Fret not. Since Edith Wharton’s day, Parisians have loved catching up with Anglo-Saxon writing.
Eight Paris Essentials and Why You Need Them
Packing for any trip can be frustrating and daunting. But when you’re heading to the fashion capital of the world, the task can seem even more arduous.
-
By Amy Barnard
A modern sculpture of an Orthodox Jewish man on rue des Rosiers.Think of the Marais, and hundreds of hip boutiques spring to mind, leaving you feeling like a little girl in a sweetshop, dizzy on sugar, unsure where to start. While that’s certainly one impression you might have of the neighborhood, there’s another, older facet to the area. Centered here is a strong Jewish community, with a rich and tragic history, that has recently been revived.
A medieval scholar of Jewish communities first called the area ha-ir hagedolah (Hebrew for “that great city”), in the 13th century, just before all Jews were expelled. They didn’t return until the 19th century, when they again settled in the Marais. Rue des Rosiers was and is the hub around the square known as the Pletzl (Yiddish for “little square”), where there are now many Orthodox bookshops and Jewish bakeries.
A Holocaust memorial plaque on rue des Rosiers.If you look above the doorway opposite the bakery with the sculpture while standing in the Pletzl, you will see one of the first signs of tragedy. The plaque is dedicated to two families that lived there, who were deported to the death camps between 1942 and 1944, including children aged 12, 2, and 1 month.
Walk farther along rue des Rosiers and turn to the right, along rue Pavée. At No. 10 stands an Art Nouveau–style Orthodox synagogue, Agudath Hakehilot. First built in 1914 by Hector Guimard (the architect of the Art Nouveau–style metro stations), it was blasted by the Nazis on Yom Kippur in 1940 and has since been rebuilt in the same style. You can visit the synagogue, but because it is Orthodox, large mixed groups are not considered appropriate.
The Agudath Hakehilot Orthodox synagogue.Crossing the rue de Rivoli toward the Seine, you’ll find the Mémorial de la Shoah museum on rue Geoffroy l’Asnier, dedicated to the French Jewish victims of the Holocaust. The museum starts with the Wall of Names, which lists the name of each Jewish victim deported from France, in alphabetical order and by year of deportation. If the memorial were no more than that wall, it would still be a very strong statement. It leaves you feeling very cold. The permanent exhibition in the basement is extensive, and unrelenting, filled with personal stories. One thing that is really brought home by this museum is just how active a role the Vichy government played during the time of the deportations. The room dedicated to the “Jew files” compiled by the Nazis and Vichy policemen on each French Jewish family and individual is one example. Seeing the names in faded ink made my stomach turn over more than once.
Back in the Pletzl, the atmosphere is now vibrant, and the cafés are buzzing, especially around l’As du Fallafel. A contemporary Israeli restaurant with a young clientele, it serves the best falafel you’ll find outside the Mediterranean.
INFO
Agudath Hakehilot
10, rue Pavée, in the 4th.Editor's note: For a guided tour of Jewish Paris, consult one of our partners, Rachel Kaplan or Richard Nahem.
You might also like:
Naked Truths: Lucian Freud at the Pompidou
The Pompidou's current show by Lucian Freud is irresistible and has had Parisians queuing right along with the tourists. The grandson of Sigmund Freud, this artist has created some of the most extreme, defiant nudes in the history of art.
I have a confession—I hate emails. As a way of doing business they're tolerable, a necessary evil. Second confession—I write letters. Just tell me you aren’t twice as thrilled to open an envelope addressed to you from a friend or lover as you are to open something in your inbox.
Top Anglophone Bookstores in Paris
However comfortable you are speaking and reading French, there may be times when you long for a quiet read in English. Fret not. Since Edith Wharton’s day, Parisians have loved catching up with Anglo-Saxon writing.
-
By Robin Locker
Le Burgundy Paris.New Hotels
Hotel le Seven
Opening in June, Hotel le Seven is a brand-new luxury design hotel located in the Latin Quarter. Rooms like the 007, Black Diamond and Marie Antoinette Suite have bathtubs raised a foot off the floor, levitating beds and starlit ceilings. The hotel is offering a discount of 30 percent for advance bookings.Le Burgundy Paris
Another new boutique hotel opening next month is Le Burgundy. Located in the 1st Arrondissement, at rue Duphot and rue St.-Honoré, the chic 59-room hotel boasts a spa and fitness club, as well as a bar and restaurant known as Le Baudelaire, with a massive fresco on its ceiling. The rooms offer modern luxury, with textured draperies, cozy armchairs and lots of crystal, glass and artwork.Pavillon de la Reine
The historic Pavillon de la Reine, a charming four-star hotel on the Place des Vosges in the Marais, has recently been renovated. The change coincides with the arrival of a young manager, Jérôme Chevalier, and the opening of a delicious Carita spa, aptly named Spa de la Reine, whose services are available to hotel guests and visitors alike.New Museums
Le Musée Gourmand du Chocolat
Paris is now home to a chocolate museum, in the 10th Arrondissement. Choco-Story: Le Musée Gourmand du Chocolat retraces the 4,000-year journey of cocoa and chocolate. The museum comprises three sections, where you’ll learn about the origin of chocolate, the methods used to prepare it and the ingredients used to make the best. Enjoy authentic chocolate-related objects, tastings and a shop with gourmet souvenirs. Admission is 9 euros, but we’re hoping the delicious tastings alone will be worth it.Hot Happenings
Jazz Festival in St.-Germain-des-Prés
The most famous annual jazz festival in Paris, held in St.-Germain-des-Prés, celebrates its 10th year this month (through May 30). Jazz lovers should definitely set aside a day or two for this popular event, which features jazz greats from all over the world, photo exhibitions, swing dancing and even electro-jazz. Many events are free.New for Jet-setters
Columbus International Tours
Looking for something unique and, dare I say, badass outside Paris? Why not don your leather jacket and try a motorcycle tour? Columbus International Tours offers day, weekend and weeklong trips in the South of France, centered around themes like nature, golf, food and wine, sports—even a high-octane ride! These trips are only for the truly adventurous girl.Open Skies
This business-class-only airline, which already offers flights from New York to Paris, has a new route. You can now fly directly from Washington, D.C., to Paris and enjoy spacious, comfortable reclining seats; dine on freshly prepared meals with wine; and choose from more than 50 hours of programmed entertainment.New Paris Reads
Mireille Guiliano, of French Women Don’t Get Fat fame, has given us advice on staying slim and living like a true Frenchwoman. Now, with her first cookbook, the recently released French Women Don't Get Fat Cookbook, she gives us a collection of simple and delicious recipes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients, as well as stories from her life and travels in Paris, Provence and New York.
David Lebovitz, a celebrated American pastry chef, cookbook author and blogger living in Paris, has just released his latest cookbook, Ready for Dessert: My Best Recipes.
Paris Pâtisseries: History, Shops, Recipes is a stunningly photographed tome of confections. Here 20 pastry chefs, like Pierre Hermé, who wrote the foreword, wax poetic and share recipes for the best cakes and more. A feast for the eyes, the book also includes a list of addresses for the city’s best patisseries and tearooms.
Editor's note: Book your hotel for four nights with the Girls’ Guide and receive a free T-shirt or market bag.
You might also like:
The Paris café is an institution. No trip to the City of Light would be complete without visiting at least one. Most cafés keep continuous hours, making them a perfect spot for a full meal, an afternoon coffee or an aperitif.
My Foodie Hero: David Lebovitz
I am a crazed foodie, I’ll admit it. I obsess over whether to buy yet another fleur du sel or that perfect pink salt from Japan. I am a follower of real foodies with more qualifications than I, and I’m a voracious researcher of what and where to eat next.
Top 10 Paris Must-Do’s for Spring 2010
1. Try a hammam. Hammams are Turkish spas, and they are very popular in Paris. For a true multicultural experience, visit the historic Mosquée de Paris, open on certain days for women only.
-
By Cynthia Rose
Musée de la Monnaie.On Saturday, May 15, Parisians will celebrate the sixth European Night of Museums, during which cultural sites are open for free until midnight. This EU-wide festival offers dazzling choices: wander the Louvre as darkness falls, explore unusual places (such as the Museum of Relief Maps) or try peeking into usually hidden gardens. The funkier museums offer shorter waits and enticing programs, but seeing a blockbuster show at twilight can also be amazing. All info is on the Nuit des Musées website. Search it by location or interest, but remember: you won't be alone.
On this occasion, there's really something for everyone. If you have impaired sight, there's a tactile fashion show by fashion students at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Serious about swords and sorcery? You can see how medieval sculptors worked at the Museum of the Middle Ages. A few more details and suggestions follow.
For Fashionistas
Enjoy free admission to the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective (with activities for kids and teens, plus a screening of Visconti's The Leopard) at the Musée du Petit Palais. Or see "An Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion, 1970–1980," at the Musée des Arts de la Mode et du Textile (Guided visits: 6 p.m.–midnight).
For Garden Lovers
Head to Musée Rodin, Musée Bourdelle, or the Centre Culturel Suisse and Institut Suédois. The last two boast one of Paris's most beautiful gardens. Their expos (including a homage to design star Sigvard Bernadotte) will be open until 10 p.m.
From 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., the Institut will also host performance art by Infr’action Paris. You can even make a weekend of it by meeting Infr’action Paris once again at 11:00 a.m. Sunday at the Marché d'Aligre—one of the liveliest of the city's morning markets.
Musée Rodin.For All Lovers of Paris
Musée Carnavalet
View the collection and enjoy music in the garden. But most of all see talk-of-the-town expo "Impossible Photography: Paris Prisons, 1851–2010." Whether your reference is French film noir, last year's Oscar-nominated movie Un Prophète or Vincent Cassel as Jacques Mesrine, it's a must. Only one of the prisons pictured, La Santé, remains. Plus, you'll see rarities from Charles Marville and criminologist Alphonse Bertillon. From 7 p.m. to midnight. Music: 7:30–8:00.Museum of the Middle Ages
Free tours of the current expo "Paris, Radiant City," plus stonemason Benedict Bocciarelli's medieval carving techniques in the museum courtyard. Special opening of the museum gardens, with landscaping by contemporary masters Eric and Arnaud Ossart Maurières. 7:30–11:45 p.m.Musée de l’Orangerie
Monet's Water Lilies, plus video art concerning water and the body (including Bill Viola's Angel's Gate), and, beginning at 8:30 p.m., a concert created for the space by Louis Dandrel.Maison de Victor Hugo
Hugo's former home, decorated to evoke the author's fascination with the Orient (6:00–11:00 p.m.). From 8:00 to 9:15 p.m., Public Clamor will perform poetry in French and sign language. At 9:30 p.m., a half-hour for families: "The Art of Being a Grandfather."For Something Totally Different
Visit the Musée de l'Armée for a full program of guided visits, animations, concerts and talks (last year they attracted more visitors than the Musée d'Orsay and Musée du Quai Branly combined).
Or try the Musée de l’Assistance Publique, Hôpitaux de Paris to see the exhibition "Humanizing the Hospital," with dance and choral presentations (7:30 p.m.–midnight). And from 9:30 to 11:00 you can sample a "healthy broth" devised in the 19th century by Paris hospitals.
INFOMarché d’Aligre
Place d’Aligre, bet. ave Daumesnil and rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, in the 12th.
Mon and Sat, 8–3:30 and 5:30–8:30 p.m.
Editor’s note: After so much culture, you'll be ready for something else. Try some of our picks for interesting tours—a cooking class, shopping tour or wine tasting, perhaps?
You might also like:Naked Truths: Lucian Freud at the Pompidou
The Pompidou's current show by Lucian Freud is irresistible and has had Parisians queuing right along with the tourists. The grandson of Sigmund Freud, this artist has created some of the most extreme, defiant nudes in the history of art.
The Art of Luxury: Very Special Paris Galleries
In Paris, luxury fashion has always leaned on the arts. But this partnership was really forged after World War I, at the moment style changed because of jazz, fast cars and flapper fashions. Then it was Coco Chanel who truly seized the impulse for change.
Paris Plans Rained Out? Survival Tips Part Two: Culture Bender!
In Paris, spring rainfall hovers around two inches per month. Should a shower derail your plans, it’s nice to have backup—especially one spot where you can spend all day. As long as it’s not a Tuesday, take my tip and head to the museum complex at Beaubourg, a.k.a. the Centre Pompidou.
-
By Sylvia Sabes
La Coulée Verte.I love Paris, but sometimes a girl needs green. I have a busy schedule, so often the best I can do is to take in a small dose via public transportation. When the mood hits, I know that Sceaux is the place to go. I pack up the kids and we're off to a quaint town with picturesque lampposts, excellent food, a charming château and a stupendous park.
The Château de Sceaux was built by Jean-Baptiste Colbert, who became finance minister to King Louis XIV after Fouquet was found to be a bit too ambitious. Colbert hired the best: the Perrault brothers, Le Brun, Mansart and, of course, André Le Nôtre for the gardens. Much, but not all, of the château was destroyed during the Revolution. Renovations were carried out in the 19th century, and the gardens in particular were restored to their original glory. Today the château is home to the Musée de l'Île de France, a museum that offers free exhibits on the region (and has public restrooms).
Baroque art at the Parc de Sceaux.Originally all the châteaux were there to protect the people, so with each château invariably there is a town nearby. Sceaux is no exception. The town is now an upper-class suburb of Paris with an elegant little downtown that is home to the fabulous chocolatier Patrick Roger and his remarkable store windows. Saturday and Wednesday are market days, so be sure to follow the crowds, passing the Parish church along the way, into the antique covered market to stock up for a picnic in the park.
After the market, I usually head to the right of the church for some extraordinary breads and truly remarkable fruit tarts at l'Etoile du Berger. Next I enter the château grounds through a small door in a rather thick stone wall, a mere 50 yards farther along. I like to head to the area around the château before choosing my picnic spot.
Chocolate spray cans at Patrick Roger: Art imitating art.The Parc de Sceaux is one of my favorite formal gardens in the entire country. The trees are cropped into inverted cones and soaring cubes and the canals form long algae-rich rectangles, dotted with fountains throughout—a living Cubist masterpiece in green. And it is one of the most entertaining . . . In a very un-Frenchlike manner, you are allowed on the grass at Sceaux! Locals come out to fish, bike, play Frisbee and picnic. I bring the badminton kit or take advantage of the gravel paths for a match of pétanque (a game similar to boccie). On Saturdays the lawn in front of the château is a favorite spot for the African community to photograph wedding parties, the women in their ornate hats and bright colors, often chanting traditional songs. There is also a public swimming pool, along with tennis courts, a playground and wide allées for a simple stroll. If all this activity has you thirsty, there is a snack bar next to the château.
If you are not the sporty type and decorative arts leave you cold, there is music. The annual concert festival in the 350-year-old orangerie is a treat. And there is an opera held outdoors at the park every year, with the château providing a breathtaking backdrop. Swallows dash overhead as sopranos sing to Mozart's Magic Flute, or Rossini's Barber of Seville, with the Opéra en Plein Air. This year promises to be excellent, with Carmen taking center stage.
Getting there couldn't be easier. We either take our bikes, following the Coulée Verte bike paths that run the 14 kilometers from Paris to Sceaux, or hop on the RER B for the half-hour ride to the Parc de Sceaux station. From there it's a 10-minute walk and voilà, you've arrived.
Editor's note: For a tour inside Paris, peruse our downloadable walking tours.
You might also like:Sunday Plans: La Promenade Plantée
Don’t let the famous gardens of Paris’s past overshadow its contemporary rivals. The city is home to renowned green design that has been setting trends around the world.
Church-Mouse Views of St.-Sulpice
Trumpeting melodies, whispering trills, cascading sharps and flats lure Parisians, tourists and even non–music lovers to St.-Sulpice, the second-largest house of God in Paris.
Why a piece on Paris from heights when you’ve probably done it already? And isn’t that a bit, well, touristy? Don’t fret. We’re heading deep into the northern wilderness—Belleville, to be exact.
-
By Cynthia Rose
Lucian Freud, Leigh under the Skylight,
1994. Oil on canvas. © Lucian Freud
Photo © DRIn Paris the artist’s studio holds eternal fascination. Onetime workplaces turned into museums fill the city, and every week lifestyle magazines offer us peeks into new ateliers. Thus it’s no surprise that the Pompidou's current show by Lucian Freud—at 88, considered by many the world’s greatest living artist—has been organized around its subject’s studio.
Many blockbuster exhibitions have celebrated this artist’s classic yet controversial portraits. But by focusing on the intimate world in which Freud makes them, "Lucian Freud: L'Atelier," curated by Cécile Debray, helps us understand how he sees. Her decision also refreshes the fundamental story of how an artist captures what it means to be human. The show, which is on view through July 19, assumes this English eccentric belongs to Europe—and that he is equal to names such as Matisse, Velázquez, Ingres or Titian. All are masters at facing a sitter in the studio.
David Dawson, Naked Admirer, 2004. Photograph.
© David Dawson, courtesy Hazlitt Holland-Hibbert, LondresStaged with great panache, the show is irresistible and has had Parisians queuing right along with the tourists. Some of their interest, however, is in Freud’s notoriety. The grandson of Sigmund Freud, this artist has created some of the most extreme, defiant nudes in the history of art. He is also a well-known Lothario who has fathered a number of illegitimate children.
Many of these progeny are prominent in English society, but their father always enjoyed his own social connections. These have allowed him to paint Britain’s Queen Elizabeth (not, however, in the nude), as well as celebrity artists from Christian Bérard to Francis Bacon—and models including Kate Moss and Jerry Hall. The exhibition’s final room is filled with giant portraits, many of fringe personalities such as Divine and Leigh Bowery.
David Dawson, Working at Night, 2005. Photograph.
© David Dawson, courtesy Hazlitt Holland-Hibbert, LondresHere one also finds Benefits Supervisor Sleeping, a painting that sent shock waves through the art world. It depicts plus-size Londoner Sue Tilley at rest on a couch, her ample flesh almost like an overwhelming force of nature. Tilley—a fixture of London’s nightclub scene in the early 1990s—is well known in Paris. (For a 2006 project at the Grand Palais, photographer Jacques Bosser created stunning, Kabuki-like portraits of her.) Benefits Supervisor Sleeping is also famous for setting a record for a work by a living artist; it fetched $33.6 million at auction in New York in 2008.
David Dawson, Painter’s Garden with Eli, 2006. Photograph.
© David Dawson, courtesy Hazlitt Holland-Hibbert, LondresHis fame and the hefty value of his works aside, Freud’s life has always been centered in his studio. The first work in the show, The Painter’s Room, may explain why. This 1944 piece depicts a theatrical workspace, occupied only by a couch, a plant, a drape and an old top hat. A zebra pokes its head unexpectedly through the window. The absent artist seems to be saying, “In this place, anything is possible.”
The paintings that follow challenge us to see people just as Freud does: carnal, complicated and anything but pretty. Yet the Pompidou’s wonderful lighting reveals the energy of his furious strokes and elaborate textures. At first glance, many of the bodies seem slightly grotesque—until Freud fills our eyes with just how alive they are. His portrait of Tilley sleeping already moved one critic to call it the equal of Manet’s Olympia. Since this Manet hangs in the Musée d’Orsay, why not visit both and see if you agree?
Lucian Freud, Reflection with Two Children (Self-Portrait), 1965. Oil on canvas.
Photo © José Loren, Museo Thyssen-Bornemiska, Madrid
© Lucian FreudTip Sheet: Famous Parisian Ateliers to Visit
Le Bateau-Lavoir
As studio-home to Picasso and others, this former piano factory (its name means “the laundry barge”) saw the birth of Cubism—Les Demoiselles d’Avignon was painted here. The facade, on Place Emile-Goudeau, remains as it was; the rest of the building had to be reconstructed after a fire. It is a national landmark.Musée Bourdelle
A museum, with wonderful gardens, created around the 1885 atelier of sculptor Emile-Antoine Bourdelle, who grew from Rodin’s apprentice into Giacometti’s teacher.Musée National Eugène Delacroix
The studios, with garden, where the painter lived and worked from 1857 to 1863.La Ruche
Nicknamed “the beehive,” this unique building was originally Gustave Eiffel’s wine pavilion for the 1900 Exposition. Rebuilt by Albert Boucher, La Ruche housed artists such as Chagall, Modigliani and Diego Rivera. With help from the likes of Sartre and Alexander Calder, it was restored for artists’ use in the 1970s.
You might also like:
Femmes Fatales at the Musée d’Orsay: Sex, Sin and the Guillotine
The Musée d’Orsay’s blockbuster show "Crime and Punishment" reveals a fixation on crime equaling that of modern TV news. At the show’s center sits the ultimate femme fatale, an actual guillotine from 1872. Fourteen feet tall, slim and draped in a steel-gray veil, the Revolution’s notorious louisette appears strangely feminine.
Paris Plans Rained Out? Survival Tips Part Two: Culture Bender!
In Paris, spring rainfall hovers around two inches per month. Should a shower derail your plans, it’s nice to have backup—especially one spot where you can spend all day. As long as it’s not a Tuesday, take my tip and head to the museum complex at Beaubourg, a.k.a. the Centre Pompidou.
Although Yves Saint Laurent died only two years ago, most young people equate his name with a label on lipsticks and sunglasses. When “YSL” retired from fashion in 2002, however, he boldly stated, “I am the last couturier.” His epic new retrospective at the Petit Palais makes a pretty convincing case that he was correct.
-
By Cynthia Rose
At the Centre Pompidou, a.k.a Beaubourg. Photo: Steve SampsonIn Paris, spring rainfall hovers around two inches per month. Should a shower derail your plans, it’s nice to have backup—especially one spot where you can spend all day. As long as it’s not a Tuesday, take my tip and head to the museum complex at Beaubourg, a.k.a. the Centre Pompidou.
Pompidou queue: It's best to book online. Photo: Steve SampsonYou can buy a ticket online, but be sure to bring an umbrella for the outdoor security queue. Inside, check your brolly and enjoy a day of art, book browsing, film, tasty dining, a little shopping—then writing and even mailing some postcards.
It’s all under one roof. Beaubourg hosts around six art expositions, from mainstream blockbusters to avant-garde offerings (such as video installations of films made on mobile phones). This is all in addition to its permanent collection, the Musée National d’Art Moderne, which reopened on April 4. Housing Europe’s foremost collection of contemporary art, Beaubourg yearly rotates the works on view, culled from a trove of 50,000 pieces by more than 5,000 artists. You’ll find a feast of big names, from Matisse to Pollock, Picasso to Rothko.
Photo: Steve SampsonThere’s also the free Bibliothèque Publique d’Information. Spread over three levels, it boasts publications from around the world, CDs and DVDs—even its own language lab. If you don’t fancy watching one of several thousand animations or documentaries, settle down with a classic movie by Éric Rohmer.
Another free “library” is the Beaubourg’s giant bookstore, with gorgeous art books, guides, biographies, papeterie and zillions of postcards. As you exit, to your right there’s a tiny post office. With your postcards and stamps in hand, just head up to Café Mezzanine. Famous for its tartes salées (heated in a convection oven rather than microwaved), this is a perfect place to write, relax and people-watch. The opposite mezzanine contains the tempting Printemps Design, a boutique with designer items as well as stylish totes and jewelry. Take your time, however. There’s often an evening film, concert or talk coming up, not to mention the swanky eatery Georges on Beaubourg’s upper level. The museum complex stays open until 9 p.m. and, for special occasions, until 11.
Le Lucernaire. Photo: Steve SampsonGreat, you may be thinking, except today is a rainy Tuesday. If that’s the case, why not try funky Le Lucernaire? Known to Parisian students as “the culture garage,” the Lucernaire Forum was created in a disused factory. The space is well worn, with plenty to occupy visitors. There are eight film screens, an upstairs art gallery, two theatres—Théâtre Rouge and Théâtre Noir—a bar, a restaurant and, in the foyer, a secondhand bookstall. On a freezing day, I lucked into free wine and profiteroles from photographer Christophe Hargoues, in celebration of his recent show “Caddie Superstar”—which featured wonderful pictures of the ubiquitous shopping trolley.
Photo: Steve SampsonI also found a screenplay I had long coveted, lunched amid a crowd of students, then faced a dilemma: watch a musical tribute to jazz legend Boris Vian or a play about Simone de Beauvoir? I ended up at neither, opting for a Michael Moore film. Afterward, the bar was filled with discussions of its merits. But, being just blocks away from convivial Le Trait d’Union, I couldn’t resist the call of that brasserie and its vin chaud. For me, it was a perfect coda to exploring Le Lucernaire.
Tip Sheet: Centre Pompidou
Don’t miss the Atelier Brancusi, a re-creation of the Montparnasse studio of sculptor Constantin Brancusi, located in the piazza outside the museum. Admission is free. Open Wednesdays to Mondays, from 2 to 6 p.m.
Do book online. Beaubourg ticket queues are always long.
Do study the website; there are different entrances for some parts of the facility.
Don't exit before you're ready—there is no reentry. And remember, though Beaubourg often stays open late, its ticket office closes at 8 p.m.
Do plan your visit. The Bibliothèque is least crowded around 6 p.m. Hours: Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from noon to 10 p.m., and on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Enter on the rue du Renard.
Tip Sheet: Le Lucernaire
Do check both film and theatre listings online or in Pariscope; the cinemas screen a mixture of French-language, subtitled and English-language films.
Do check out the children’s offerings if you have kids. There are films as well as reading, music and art activities.
Don't assume your teen will be bored. Le Lucernaire is a hugely popular student hangout during the school term. If you have teens, they may especially enjoy it.
INFOLe Trait d’Union
122, Rue de Rennes, in the 6th Arrondissement.Interested in more? Read a list of our favorite museums here. You can also read our guide to the top 15 must-do's in Paris here.
You might also like:
Strike, Rain, Cancellations? Survival Tips Part One: Go to the (Old) Movies!
You scheduled a walking tour but woke up to freezing rain? Don’t fret. There’s an alternative world to discover, one as sheltered and filled with old, exquisite treasures as any museum. I’m talking about the fabulous vintage films—from all over the world—that make Paris a mecca for every kind of movie fan.
Femmes Fatales at the Musée d’Orsay: Sex, Sin and the Guillotine
The Musée d’Orsay’s blockbuster show "Crime and Punishment" reveals a fixation on crime equaling that of modern TV news. At the show’s center sits the ultimate femme fatale, an actual guillotine from 1872. Fourteen feet tall, slim and draped in a steel-gray veil, the Revolution’s notorious louisette appears strangely feminine.
Destination Art: Culture That's Worth the Trip
It is below zero on a Wednesday morning, and the line at the Grand Palais is an hour long for ticket holders. Those without tickets will be standing in the cold even longer. And yet they stand. From Klimt to Picasso, from Warhol to Rodin, the French love their art—which means there are great shows to attend throughout the year.
-
By Rachel Kaplan
Notre-Dame at sunset."I love Paris in the springtime/ I love Paris in the fall/ I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles/ I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles/ I love Paris every moment/ Every moment of the year/ I love Paris, why oh why do I love Paris/ Because my love is here."
When Ella Fitzgerald wrote the lyrics to this wonderful song, which was made equally famous by Nat King Cole and Frank Sinatra, she knew what she was talking about. Not only is Paris the most romantic city in the world, but it is the city that immortalized the loves of the world’s most famous couples, including Heloise and Abelard, George Sand and Frédéric Chopin, Arthur Rimbaud and Paul Verlaine, Aristotle Onassis and Maria Callas, Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky.
My favorite quartier remains the Marais, which boasts the largest number of listed historic mansions in all of France (more than 150), starting with the stunningly perfect Place des Vosges, where mansions of red brick and white tufa stone overlook one of the most charming squares in Paris. You may decide to amble over to the charming Victor Hugo Museum, where you can learn about the intriguing and productive life of the man who penned The Hunchback of Notre-Dame and Les Misérables.
Take time out to explore the upper Marais around the Musée Picasso (the museum itself is closed for renovation through 2012). Stroll along the rue Vieille-du-Temple, known for its cutting-edge galleries, fashion boutiques and charming café-restaurants. I also love rue Charlot, rue de Poitou and rue de Bretagne, with its nifty vintage stores, sexy clothing boutiques and atypical accessory designers.
My second-favorite part of Paris is the left bank, which includes the Sorbonne; the city’s second-oldest church, l’Eglise St.-Germain-des-Prés; and two of the world’s most famous literary cafés—Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore.
A guided tour of the area would take you to the haunts of Hemingway and the splendid 14th-century Museum of the Middle Ages (Musée de Cluny), which claims the only extant Gallo-Roman baths left in Paris. Be sure to admire the museum’s breathtakingly beautiful Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which illustrate the five senses as well as the art of love.
No day in Paris is complete without a romantic walk at sunset in the left bank’s Luxembourg Gardens, which were originally conceived by the Italian queen Marie de Médicis. By now, with all the walking you have done, you are probably yearning for a delicious cup of tea and a treat. It is hard to resist the mouthwatering pastries in the window of master baker Gérard Mulot on the rue de Seine, or the jewel-like chocolates of Pierre Marcolini, on the same street.
If you prefer to save your calories for dinner, you have lots of choices on both the left and right bank. You could sit at Jack Nicholson’s table at Le Grand Colbert—the bistro that became famous through the movie Something’s Gotta Give, starring Diane Keaton.
Still, my favorite restaurant in Paris remains Christian Constant’s Le Violon d’Ingres, on the left bank; his gourmet menu is one of the best values in town.
If you have time, you might want to schedule a champagne or wine and cheese tasting. My favorite wine bar in Paris is Tim Johnston’s Juvénile’s; my favorite champagne bar is Dokhan’s.
And for those of you who want to take romance to another level, be sure to admire the jewel-filled windows on the Place Vendôme, opposite the celebrated Ritz Hotel. Even if you don’t buy a thing, just for a moment you will feel the romance of Paris all the more keenly, in all its dazzling facets of light.
INFOJuvénile’s
47, rue de Richelieu, in the 1st.
01 42 97 90 73.Rachel Kaplan is the author of six books, including Little-Known Museums in and around Paris (Harry N. Abrams) and Best Buys to French Chic: The Savvy Shopping Guide to Paris. She is also the president of French Links Tours and France Wedding Planner.
You might also like:Top 10 Paris Must-Do’s for Spring 2010
1. Try a hammam. Hammams are Turkish spas, and they are very popular in Paris. For a true multicultural experience, visit the historic Mosquée de Paris, open on certain days for women only (for details, see the complete Girls’ Guide listing).
They call Paris the city of love, but in reality, the dating scene can be hit or miss. If love doesn’t work out, or you’re just looking to have some innocent fun, engage in the shameless flirtation that runs rampant in Paris.
If you don’t know about the passages, you must learn. I don’t mean to sound professorial, but I made the same mistake—coming to Paris for an embarrassingly long time before I finally made the discovery.
-
By Sylvia Sabes
Photo by Marc Montméat, Paris Photo Jeune Talent SFR 2009.It is below zero on a Wednesday morning, and the line at the Grand Palais is an hour long for ticket holders. Those without tickets will be standing in the cold even longer. And yet they stand: university students with a morning off, retirees, mothers who work only four days a week, lovers cashing in an RTT (floating days off), all of them locals and all of them waiting patiently in line to view art. Who is the artist and what was the incredible show that drew so many? I can't recall, and it really doesn't matter, because this is pretty much the scene every time I've attended a show here. From Klimt to Picasso, from Warhol to Rodin, the French love their art—which means there are great shows to attend throughout the year.
Current (and upcoming) shows include Yves Saint Laurent at the Petit Palais, Lucian Freud at the Centre Pompidou, Turner at the Grand Palais, Basquiat at the Musée d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris, Doisneau at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson and photos of Versailles from 1850 to 2010 at the château itself.
If all this information seems rather rushed to you, you're right. That's because, in addition to these temporary events, there are several annual events that are worth the trip in their own right.
A sculpture at FIAC last fall.Parcours des Mondes
Usually first week of September
This is one of the most important tribal arts shows in the world. Galleries specializing in tribal arts from across the globe borrow space from the St.-Germain-des-Prés galleries to exhibit pre-Columbian artifacts, Egyptian treasures and African sculptures. Much of the work is museum quality, and the people-watching is almost as fantastic as the art itself.Biennale de Paris
Last weekend of September
Founded by André Malraux, this art and jewelry show attracts dealers from across the globe, with pieces hailing from ancient Rome and Persia, all the way up through contemporary art. The presence of some of the greatest jewelry houses in the world—Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Cartier—ensures some serious eye candy, and the participants spare no expense in decorating the jewel-box venue of the Grand Palais.FIAC
October 21 to 24
This contemporary art show is so huge that it requires two venues: the inner courtyard of the Louvre and the Grand Palais. And if that's not enough for you, the local galleries put on their star collections, hoping to attract the roving eyes of the hordes of international art collectors who head into town the week after visiting Frieze, the London contemporary art fair.
Even the public restrooms go arty for Paris Photo. A display of toilet paper in one restroom.Paris Photo
November 18 to 21
This year Central Europe is the guest of honor at Paris's annual photography show, held at the Carrousel du Louvre; Paris Photo features works from artists such as Man Ray and Henri Cartier-Bresson alongside images from Africa, Asia and the Americas. The star of last year's show was Marc Montméat, the winner of the phone company SFR's Young Talent Award—he sold every photo available in just two days.Editor's note: Parcours des Mondes is an open event, but all the rest (exhibitions and shows) require tickets. Because the whole art world comes to Paris for these events, advance tickets are recommended. If the concierge at your hotel cannot help you, book them yourself online at FNAC.
You might also like:
Meet the Muse Who Changed Paris: Isadora Duncan
From its rare costumes and photographs to wonderful paintings, films and sculptures, this show is as fascinating as its subject. Plus, if you don’t already know Isadora, this is a great way to meet one of the last century’s most notorious stars.If you saw the film Camille Claudel, with Isabelle Adjani, you know a flood almost drowned the artist in her studio—and Claudel was indeed rescued from her atelier (it was at 19, Quai Bourbon on the Île St.-Louis; the year was 1910).
I have a confession—I hate emails. As a way of doing business they're tolerable, a necessary evil. Second confession—I write letters. Just tell me you aren’t twice as thrilled to open an envelope addressed to you from a friend or lover as you are to open something in your inbox.
-
By Cynthia Rose
Isadora at the Musée Bourdelle
"Isadora Duncan: Une Sculpture Vivante" at the Musée Bourdelle is one of Paris’s most exuberant expos. But don’t plan to go unless you’ve got time to spend. From its rare costumes and photographs to wonderful paintings, films and sculptures, this show is as fascinating as its subject. Plus, if you don’t already know Isadora, this is a great way to meet one of the last century’s most notorious stars.
Step by step, you’ll participate in her rise—from humble American origins to the role of international legend. Isadora’s métier was “free,” or modern, dance, which, paired with her beauty and daring, proved her ticket to greatness. It’s utterly riveting to follow her ascent, complete with torrid love affairs, passionate politics and epic tragedies. (The dancer bore three children out of wedlock, none of whom survived, and she died when she was accidentally strangled by her scarf.)
The exhibition follows Isadora from dancing in drawing rooms to stardom, both across Europe and in Russia after the revolution. We see the Greek antiquities that first inspired her, then rare photos of her dancing on the Acropolis. More glamorous photographs by Druet and Steichen, as well as sculptures of Isadora by Bourdelle and Rodin (not to mention dresses by Paul Poiret and Fortuny), make it easy to understand just how famous she became. (Isadora inspired, among others, Russian theatre great Konstantin Stanislavsky, British playwright George Bernard Shaw and Ballets Russes stars Sergei Diaghilev, Anna Pavlova and Michel Fokine.)
Her stardom reverberates through rooms of magazine covers and features, books, love poems, letters and postcards, newspaper cuttings, watercolors, paintings, jewelry, murals and sketches—all are of Isadora or inspired by her. The toast of both Parisian art circles and high society, she is described by Colette as “a woman who would dance to her death, on naked feet.”
© Steve SampsonThe museum puts Isadora-mania into context, though, by including not just photos of her famous lovers, doomed children and dance schools (in Germany, France and Moscow). It also offers a solid perspective on the world she inhabited—as well as her teachers and competition, from other “experimental” dancers to legends such as Nijinsky.
There is a brief film of Isadora actually dancing, as well as filmed performances by her students, the “Isadorables.” A special contemporary movie, Carnet d’un rêveur (A Dreamer’s Notebook) features dancers from the Centre Chorégraphique National de Grenoble.
This museum is captivating on its own merits; it has long been a secret favorite among Parisians. Perhaps that is because, wandering its gardens and studios, one can truly sense the vanished Montparnasse. Jaw-dropping as Bourdelle’s great monuments are—and they enjoy their own specially built great hall—the site’s real attraction is that quiet sense of travel through time, back to a more intimate and bohemian Paris.
"Isadora Duncan: Une Sculpture Vivante" is at the Musée Bourdelle through March 14, 2010.
A Quick Tour of Isadora’s Paris45, rue de Villiers, in the 17th Arrondissement
Isadora lived here, where she gave her first performances in Paris, for Rodin, Bourdelle and numerous artists and socialites.9, rue Delambre, in the 14th
Isadora moved here to join the Montparnasse art scene, telling friends she danced in the Luxembourg Gardens every day at 5 a.m.5, rue Danton, in the 5th
Isadora took two apartments here in 1909, living on the ground floor and teaching dance above.108, rue de la Pompe, in the 16th
Isadora’s studio here was called Salle Beethoven. Visiting in the 1920s, Janet Flanner called her “without question the most famous American living in Paris.”Père-Lachaise Cemetery
Final resting place of Isadora, who was cremated and buried next to her children on September 19, 1927.Watch: The 1968 biopic Isadora, starring Vanessa Redgrave, who won Best Actress at Cannes for her portrayal.
You might also like:
“Love Gives Life”: Christian Boltanski at the Grand Palais
Artist Christian Boltanski loves to shop at Paris flea markets. “I go,” he says, “I see a jacket that I like and I say, 'Take me, I’m yours!' I bring the jacket a whole new life, because love always gives life.”
The Institut du Monde Arabe (Institute of the Arab World), in the 5th Arrondissement, is at once a museum, a library and a cultural center.
If you saw the film Camille Claudel, with Isabelle Adjani, you know a flood almost drowned the artist in her studio—and Claudel was indeed rescued from her atelier (it was at 19, Quai Bourbon on the Île St.-Louis; the year was 1910).
-
By Amy Barnard
The Institut du Monde Arabe (Institute of the Arab World), in the 5th Arrondissement, is at once a museum, a library and a cultural center. I had been to concerts here once or twice before but hadn’t toured the museum.
I had come down to pick up the program for their current belly-dance shows (more on this later) and decided, while I was there, to check it out for your benefit and see their current exhibition, "Arts de l’Islam." The show starts with artifacts found across Central Asia and the Middle East from the pre-Islamic period, including many Greek-influenced objects and some beautiful mosaics from Roman Tunisia. It then moves into pottery styles, carpet and jewelry, though the stars of the museum collection are the illuminated manuscripts and calligraphy. It also includes medical and astronomical instruments, illustrating just how much more advanced in these areas the Arab world was in the pre-Renaissance period.
The exhibition is very worthwhile (especially if it would be your first experience with Arab art), as it is unusually broad. Normally such exhibitions are on a specific area—Ottoman Turkey, say, or Persia. Here I noticed pottery from North Africa, drawings from Mogul India, Turkish pieces and, possibly my favorite form, Persian miniatures. These tiny drawings are exquisite, worked in mind-boggling detail and controversial: they portray human forms, traditionally verboten in Islamic art (here’s not the place for the details on how they got away with it). The show also includes more calligraphy and beautiful geometric designs.
As with a lot of museums in Paris, there isn’t any written info in English . . . audio guide to the rescue! (5 euros.)
The Institut is holding a series of belly-dance shows until April—a great move, since Middle East cultural centers often shy away from this entertainment, which doesn’t help its image. If you’re feeling inspired, there are belly-dance drop-in classes available in Paris. No need to sign up. Just pay for your hour-and-a-half class at Centre de Danse du Marais or Centre Momboye when you get there.
Upcoming Belly-Dance Shows at IMA
Feb 13 Flowers . . . until the end of the earth
Paola Ruggeri and Gul Hacer Torok
Mar 2 Oriental Cabaret
Isabelle Delle Castelle and troupe
Apr 17 Oriental Lights
Annaba CompanyTickets range from 19 to 26 euros and can be purchased online or at the ticket office at the Institut.
You might also like:
If you saw the film Camille Claudel, with Isabelle Adjani, you know a flood almost drowned the artist in her studio—and Claudel was indeed rescued from her atelier (it was at 19, Quai Bourbon on the Ile St.-Louis; the year was 1910).
I have a confession—I hate emails. As a way of doing business they're tolerable, a necessary evil. Second confession—I write letters. Just tell me you aren’t twice as thrilled to open an envelope addressed to you from a friend or lover as you are to open something in your inbox.
One of the most beloved sites for contemporary art in the French capital is not a museum or gallery but l’Association 59 Rivoli, a daring arts collective inviting you to faisez comme chez vous, or make yourself at home, in their artists' studios.
-
By Amy Barnard
The Museum of Letters and Manuscripts
8, rue de Nesle, in the 6th Arrondissement.
Wed, 1–9 p.m; Tues and Thurs–Sun, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.
Closed Mon. Annual closure: Nov 1–Dec 10.*I have a confession—I hate emails. As a way of doing business they're tolerable, a necessary evil. Second confession—I write letters. Just tell me you aren’t twice as thrilled to open an envelope addressed to you from a friend or lover as you are to open something in your inbox. Perhaps this is why I love the Museum of Letters and Manuscripts as much as I do.
Still, even if you’re not similarly inclined, there’s much at this tiny museum to amaze: more than 2,000 documents, by some pretty big names. Einstein’s brainwaves on the theory of relativity are recorded in scribbled notes to a friend. Baudelaire bitches about money. Catherine de Médicis writes to her housekeepers. (I half expected to find a line reading, "Leave the final seasoning to me.") A telegram from the Titanic reveals the utterly business-oriented arrangements of an upper-class marriage of the day.
The whole of the upper floor is devoted to Napoleon: letters in the man’s own hand detailing battle maneuvers to his generals, political edicts and such. But the letters of his I would most want to read, to Josephine, are not on display here. Call it voyeurism if you want, but I prefer to file it under "journalistic curiosity."
N.B. All information provided is in French only, though there are English leaflets available at the desk.
*Check the website before your visit; the museum is closing for part of spring 2010 in order to move to a new location on boulevard St.-Germain.
Fragonard Museum and Perfumery
On rue Scribe: 9, rue Scribe, in the 9th. 01 47 42 04 56.
Mon–Sat, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sun and holidays, 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
On blvd des Capucines: 39, blvd des Capucines, in the 2nd.
01 42 60 37 14. Mon–Sat, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.The Fragonard perfume house is also home to two small museums that explore the processes of perfume making and display collections of antique perfume flacons.These free museums (one on rue Scribe and the other on boulevard des Capucines) are a lovely way to spend half an hour or so. If you have time for only one of them, I’d recommend the larger rue Scribe location, with its beautiful 18th-century rooms, ornate moldings and gilt.
The different antique methods of extracting scent from flowers and herbs are documented, and there are different machines and contraptions, scales, vials and other apparatuses, all of which invite comparisons with alchemy. I always find myself amazed at this type of thing, thinking, What accident led to this discovery?
Also wonderful are the perfume bottles on display, including examples from some of the earliest civilizations up through the 1950s. There’s English Wedgwood from the 18th century, tiny travel toilette sets and miniature bottles designed to be pinned to clothing—so mind-bogglingly tiny it’s a marvel that anything could ever have been decanted into them. There’s also a small collection of "comedy" porcelain perfume bottles in human form with various holes . . . Well, you see where this is going.
There’s also an interactive element, a sensory guessing game where you can sniff pomades and try to identify the raw scent—orange or rosemary, for example. I pinched a little rose pomade from the pot to wear as perfume. A week later, my scarf still smells of it.
You might also like:
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian Goes Bespoke
While on a red-eye flight home to Paris in 2001, the talented young French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian was enjoying small talk with the woman beside him about their respective lines of work.
Cheap Thrills: The Vanves Flea Market
Almost everyone has heard of the massive market at Porte de St. Ouen, otherwise known as Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt. This is an Aladdin’s cave of antiques, vintage clothes and high-quality memorabilia.
One of the most beloved sites for contemporary art in the French capital is not a museum or gallery but l’Association 59 Rivoli, a daring arts collective inviting you to faisez comme chez vous, or make yourself at home, in their artists' studios.
-
By Amy Barnard
De Byzance à Istanbul
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
Through January 25“De Byzance à Istanbul” is an ambitious exhibition chronicling the many faces of this incredible port city, from prehistoric to Roman civilization, from Byzantium to the Ottoman Empire. I was especially interested to see what they would come up with; having lived there myself, I have a strong attachment to the city.
Luckily, I was not at all disappointed. In the first room of the exhibition I spotted several items I had seen in situ, such as Byzantine floor mosaics, which have been perfectly transplanted to Paris. There are several Byzantine treasures on display, but the one that most caught my attention was something I’d never seen before. At the end of the room there’s a detailed sketch of a fort with notes in Italian—done by a Venetian spy.
As you walk upstairs to the Ottoman room, you encounter an innovative video, possibly my favorite part of the exhibition. A curved installation on the ceiling with projections gives you re-creations of the intricate paintings on the domes of Istanbul. It’s so beautifully done, so realistic, you could almost be there.
The Ottoman section is fantastic, with lots of exhibits taken straight from the sultan’s Topkapi Palace—the jewel-encrusted daily items are the stuff of legend. If I had one criticism, it would be that I felt there was too much space given at the end to the artifacts uncovered during the extension of the Istanbul metro. One prehistoric pottery shard looks much like another to the untrained eye . . .
Also see: “At the Court of the Great Turk: Kaftans from Topkapi Palace,” at the Louvre (through January 18). Yes, yes another Turkish exhibition—I’m biased, perhaps, but Paris is holding a Turkish cultural season until March. What could be better than to see the art of two great cultures in one place?
And while you’re at the Grand Palais, don’t miss “Renoir in the 20th Century” (through January 4).
“We Want Miles”
Cité de la Musique
Through January 17Jazz giant Miles Davis is the subject of an extensive exhibition covering everything from his early work to his later funk incarnations. It’s a jazz lover/Miles enthusiast’s paradise. There’s plenty to listen to, obviously. The exhibition provides headphones at the entrance to use in the ‘‘plug and play’’ outlets, where you can hear other samples from the extensive collection and, later, interviews with the man himself. There’s plenty of memorabilia—keep your eyes peeled for the poem about the little boy by Miles in a music magazine. The sample of the sound track from Ascenseur pour l’Echafaud (Elevator to the Scaffold), starring Jeanne Moreau, is perfectly moody and atmospheric.
The exhibition is not very clearly structured or labeled, so make sure you look into every little nook and cranny and open closed doors, or you’ll miss half of it.
Also see: “Fellini,” at the Jeu de Paume (through January 17). Still shots from some of Fellini’s most treasured movies, including, of course, La Dolce Vita. The exhibition focuses on uncovering Fellini’s methods and processes in realizing his art form.
Print
Email
Share
RSS
