By Doni Belau

That’s what Mireille Guiliano counsels, and I’m beginning to believe it. You remember Mireille: she’s the former CEO of Veuve Clicquot (dream job) and the author of the New York Times best seller French Women Don’t Get Fat. I’ve received my copy of the new French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook—published April 27 by Atria—and I’m loving this idea that I can eat the French food that I adore and stay trim (or should I say, trim down). And now we’ve invited Mireille to do our very first Twitter chat live on Wednesday, May 19, between noon and 2 p.m. EST, or lunchtime in New York. You can ask Mireille about anything, from food to fashion, Paris to pot-au-feu. Here are all the details.

Following the new cookbook (guidebook to my new life), I’ve been doing the magic cream for breakfast—we’re going to give you that recipe next week, so stay tuned!—and I’m going to try this scrumptious-sounding, perfect-for-spring salmon recipe next: Salmon with Leeks and Asparagus en Papillote, which appears below. Mireille says that cooking your own food will make you more conscious of what you're eating. I couldn’t agree more. There is no doubt that I get into a lot more trouble when I’m out than when I’m cooking at home. Plus, as I thumb through these pages, her enthusiasm for these recipes abounds, and they don’t sound at all like the traditional diet crap. Can you feel sorry for yourself when eating Duck Breast à la Gasconne, Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage, or Apricot Tart? The theory seems to be not everything all at once—OK, I guess I can live with that. Mireille believes in eating sensibly and pleasurably. I’ve definitely got the pleasure part down, so now I guess I’ll get to work on the sensible part.

Here’s some inspiration, courtesy of Mireille Guiliano and Atria Books. See you next week on Twitter!

Salmon with Leeks and Asparagus en Papillote

Excerpted from The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook, by Mireille Guiliano, published in April by Atria.

Serves 4.

3 oranges
2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 medium carrots, peeled and grated
1 leek, white part only, cut into thin strips
8 asparagus tips, cut in half (reserve asparagus stalks for a salad)
4 (5- to 6-ounce) salmon steaks
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

2. Remove the zest of 1 orange in long strips and julienne; reserve the orange. Place the julienned strips of orange zest in a small pot of cold water and bring to a boil. Drain the zest and set aside.

3. Prepare the orange segments: cut slices off the top and bottom of the remaining 2 oranges and then slice away the peel and pith, top to bottom, following the curve of the fruit. Working over a bowl and using a small, sharp knife, cut between the membranes to release the segments and juice of all 3 oranges.

4. Cut four pieces of parchment paper into 12- x 16-inch rectangles and brush the centers with sesame oil. Place one quarter of the carrots, leeks, and asparagus tips in the center of the first piece of parchment paper and top with 1 salmon steak. Add the orange segments, blanched orange zest, 1/4 teaspoon sesame oil, and 1 teaspoon orange juice. Season to taste and seal the packet by bringing up the sides to the center and folding them down tightly. Seal the ends by folding each in tightly. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, creating four packets.

5. Place the packets on a baking sheet and cook in the oven for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven (the packets will be puffed and lightly browned) and allow to rest for 5 minutes before placing each packet on a plate and serving. Allow guests to open their packets and garnish with cilantro and dill.

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By Doni Belau

The light and citrusy Parisienne, by Yves Saint Laurent.

On my last trip to Paris, just a few weeks ago, I made my normal stop at duty free coming home from Charles de Gaulle. It seems that all the big houses are doing lovely pink-colored perfumes. I may perhaps be the last to catch on to this trend. These are most likely aimed at a young ingenue audience, but even in my mid-40s I decided to take a sniff.

After some sampling I ended up with YSL’s Parisienne, which comes in an oval-shaped cut-crystal bottle. The scent is light and citrusy with some musk overtones, a perfect combination of sweet and tart (how I’d like to think I am . . . sometimes, anyway). I also noticed a little pink number called Classique, by Jean Paul Gaultier—who, btw, now has a line out at Target (wow!). The scent contains orange blossom, rose, mandarin, aniseed, carnation orchids, ylang ylang, ginger and vanilla, among other flowers and spices. This perfume is very girly but is housed in a female-torso-shaped bottle, which was a turnoff for me.

Chanel has a scent called Coco Mademoiselle, which I also liked, in their classic retangular bottle. Orange bergamot and grapefruit are the ingredients in this perfume, and it’s a huge seller, aimed at women in their 20s and 30s. The last perfume I sampled was Miss Dior Cherie, and this one was my second favorite, after Parisienne. Watch the cute commercial made for this scent by Sofia Coppola. Clean, simple and fresh is the idea behind Cherie, with notes of bitter orange and gardenia flowers captured in an elegant square bottle. Also marketed to the young, Cherie is supposed to remind you of “a young, charming Parisian girl, who is nonchalant, elegant and cheerful, sees the world around her in a positive way, as a place where nothing bad can happen, as if it were composed of pastel nuances. Her charisma, charm and grace show her as a symbol of youth, freshness and spontaneity,” according to Fragrantica.

Hey, we can all use a little nonchalant positive elegance at any age, now, can’t we? Pick up a pretty pink bottle for yourself and embody youth and Paris, if only for a whiff of a moment.

The marketing campaign for YSL’s Parisienne, which was released last year, used this cute little ditty:

I feel pretty,
Oh, so pretty,
I feel pretty and witty and bright!
And I pity
Any girl who isn't me tonight.

I feel charming,
Oh, so charming
It's alarming how charming I feel!
And so pretty
That I hardly can believe I'm real.

. . .

I feel stunning
And entrancing,
Feel like running and dancing for joy,
For I'm loved
By a pretty wonderful boy!

Ah, to be young again.

For a list of the top perfume boutiques in Paris, read our guide Jewels and Scents.

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By Doni Belau

Discussed today on Martha Stewart’s Morning Living radio show.

La Mosquée de Paris.

1. Try a hammam. Hammams are Turkish spas, and they are very popular in Paris. For a true multicultural experience, visit the historic Mosquée de Paris, open on certain days for women only (for details, see the complete Girls’ Guide listing). After your steam and scrub, enjoy mint tea and couscous in a gorgeous authentic mosque from the 1920s. For a more modern experience with great massages, I like Les Bains du Marais.

A little painting on the wall of Hotel Chateaubriand’s room No. 2.

2. Stay at a secret hotel. On a recent trip to Paris I found several amazing hotels through Exclusive Hotels, a service I’d recommend to any discerning traveler. Hotel Chateaubriand is a secret hideaway in the 8th Arrondissement, just steps from the Champs-Élysées. Tastefully decorated with antiques and luxurious fabrics, this hotel bears the unique stamp of its doting owner, Romain Rio. In each room you’ll find a tiny painting of a Louis XIV scene, tucked away discreetly somewhere on the silk-covered walls. Absolutely adorable! Other hotels I loved were Hotel Gabriel, the well-known Pershing Hall and Hotel Keppler. For more, visit Exclusive Hotels.

3. Indulge at the Dior spa. Experience the truly spectacular Dior Spa at the Plaza Athénée, with its Greco-Roman feel, über-cool lounge and larger-than-life screen playing Dior’s greatest fashion shows. Try the double massage room for a mother-daughter or couples massage.

Duck confit at Le Cantine de Quentin.

4. Make Paris your foodie heaven. Paris is experiencing a revolution in its restaurant sector. The city’s best chefs are tossing off their Michelin stars to serve what they want in restaurants that are much more casual, more affordable and less fussy. Some of our favorites:

Le Chateaubriand serves just one set menu (with adjustments for allergies and veggies) and delivers some of the most interesting food in the capital. Plus, the waiters are terribly cute!

Le Passage is Alain Senderens’ second restaurant and bar, though it remains a bit of a secret—you have to ring a buzzer to get in. On a recent visit, the decor was modern (gold and silver) and the atmosphere relaxed. The food at Le Passage is divine, and much more moderately priced than at sibling resto Senderens. The lobster ravioli here is a masterpiece.

Le Cantine de Quentin is a casual wine bar, wine shop and eatery in the 10th, near the très kool Canal St. Martin area. This place serves a reasonably priced lunch—and only lunch. Come for the classic duck confit and the charming artsy atmosphere. It’s the perfect stop after a morning spent shopping at the stores and art-book shops in the ’hood.

Note: I could go on and on about food—it’s one of the best reasons to travel to Paris. Keep abreast of the current trends by reading our weekly restaurant reviews.

5. Shop, shop, shop. Shopping in Paris is a delight for the senses. There are many areas to hit, but my favorite is the Marais. In the upper Marais you can find one-of-a-kind designer shops too numerous to mention here. But you can explore them all on our Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille downloadable tour, which is chock-full of more than 60 stores, shops and ateliers. I am a big fan of the concept store Merci, where you can spend nearly the entire day. Other stores I frequent include Zadig et Voltaire, Paul and Joe, Isabel Marant, Autour du Monde and Le Bon Marché (of course!). For contact info for all, check out the roundup we did for our friends at Bonjour Paris.

6. Hit the sales. If you prefer to be smart and shop the incredible sales that occur each year in January (for fall/winter merchandise) and June–July (spring/summer), join us on our next Shop, Spa and Savor tour, this summer from June 26 to July 2.

Vespa tour with Left Bank Scooters.

7. Take an unusual tour. If the idea of a traditional tour guide and tour bus makes you sick, then try these one-of-a-kind outings. City Segway Tours is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser for all ages, and a great way to see the main sights for first timers and veterans alike. After you learn how to use the Segway, you’ll ride around feeling quite young again, cruising at about 15 mph. You’ll see all the sights of central Paris, from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre. You won’t want to give the thing back—I promise! If speed is more your style, I recommend the Vespa tour. Riding up the Champs-Élysées and around the Arc de Triomphe on a Vespa is NOT an everyday experience. Matt at Left Bank Scooters can teach anyone to ride these babies, and it’s a wonderful way to experience the city in true Parisian style. He also leads a trip out to Versailles!

Hôtel Recamier.

8. Stay on Place St. Sulpice. A very special new hotel (opened last year) that no one has written about in the US is the Hôtel Recamier, overlooking the famous St. Sulpice church. Decorated in a very posh style, this hideaway is the ideal spot for a romantic getaway or a girls’ trip. The place is run by veteran hotelier Sylvie de Lattre, who also owns the very successful Hôtel Thérèse and Hôtel Verneuil. I simply adore the busts of Madame Recamier on each floor, which pay homage to different artists—Christo being my favorite.

© Alexandre Guirkinger. Yves Saint Laurent's "Trapeze" dress,
from the spring 1958 Dior collection.

9. Visit the big museum shows. There are always blockbuster art shows going on in Paris, but this spring the city is teeming with beauty everywhere you look. Do not miss the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais, which presents Monsieur Laurent as truly the last great couturier. Also check out Lucian Freud at the Centre Pompidou and Edvard Munch at the Pinacothèque de Paris.

Chocolate eggs from Patrick Roger.

10. Be decadent! Buy shoes and chocolate. If all else fails, buy shoes and chocolate. Stroll down the best shoe-shopping street in the world, rue de Grenelle and buy something sexy for yourself, then pop over to Patrick Roger, the king of chocolatiers, on rue St.-Germain. Treat yourself and others to gifts wrapped up in his signature turquoise boxes. The Easter treats are nothing short of amazing, including a very real-looking fried egg made of chocolate—a humorous twist on the traditional. Oh la la!

Happy Travels!

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By Doni Belau

Photo: Bonne Nuit Paris.

Last summer I tried out the concept of staying at a bed-and-breakfast in Paris. I found the experience a bit odd. I researched and secured a lovely apartment, beautifully decorated and around the corner from the Musée Picasso in the Marais, which is a perfect location. The proprietor was a very charming gay guy who had to move out in order to move me in. The whole apartment still smelled of his cologne. It seemed I was staying in his only bedroom. Maybe it was a way of making a few bucks (he moved across the street to his boyfriend’s house), but it seemed a bit unsettling to me. He was perfectly nice and brought me excellent croissants each morning, but the experience was not what I had expected. I had assumed (you know what they say about that) that I’d be staying in an extra bedroom. I’m not giving up, though—this is probably the cheapest way to stay in the city and has the potential to be a unique and charming experience that will allow you to really get to know a local. I recommend it for the adventurous and the friendly, not for those who feel privacy is paramount. Do ask a lot of questions before you book.

Here are a few other B and Bs I found that are worth sampling:

Paris Oasis, on rue André del Sarte, close to Sacré-Coeur, is 100–150 euros per night (depending on the room) for two. Prices are slightly more for more people, and there's a three-night minimum. It pays to have friends. This maison in the 18th Arrondissement (Montmartre) has an indoor pool and a lovely exterior garden. There are six bedrooms, some with kitchenettes, but no breakfast. Guess you’d call it a bed sans breakfast. Some rooms are better decorated than others, so be choosy.

La Villa Paris has been exquisitely designed in an art deco style, and the owner is very helpful. It might be interesting to discover this part of the 13th. We like the Concorde room.

Paris Chic Near the Champs in the 17th sits this lovely B and B for 140 euros a night for two. It's nicely decorated and situated in a Haussmann-style building, sporting a Jacuzzi tub with views of the rooftops of Paris. Your host is a musician.

B&B Folie Oberkampf is a cute guest apartment in the 11th (the owners have two other places for rent), run as a B and B starting at 85 euros per night. Now that’s a bargain—you’ll have your own apartment complete with a kitchen and living room. These owners like color, and you’ll have to walk up the stairs, but it’s the best deal in town short of a hostel.

Villa Clara is a luxurious B and B in the 9th for around 200 euros, but you’ll sleep in a mansion and receive a bottle of champagne. Not too shabby.

Nouvelle Athènes B and B is a great choice in the 9th, if you don’t mind climbing up to the fourth floor. The Chambre d’Hôtes St. Georges has been superbly decorated. Only 75 euros a night for two.

Commerce B and B in the 15th, from Meeting the French, is a sophisticated and charming place for only 169 euros for three, which works out to 56.33 euros per person. Now you can’t beat that price!

Bonne Nuit Paris will set you up in an ancient building in the Marais, on the wonderful rue Charlot. Rates for two start at 125 euros a night, with a breakfast of bread/croissants and homemade jam. Owned by a French man and an American woman; you’ll enjoy their hospitality.

Bateau Pytheas is a fun one—for 170 euros enjoy a weeknight stay on a boat in the 8th (360 euros for Friday and Saturday nights combined). Breakfast included.

Bateau Johanna is another boat, close to the Tuileries, with two rooms. Rate for two: 100 euros. Two-night minimum.

There are countless companies, so enjoy the search and let us know how you find B and B-ing in Paris.

BB Paris
Meeting the French
Fleurs de Soleil
Bed and Breakfast
GoodMorningParis

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By Doni Belau

If you don’t know about the passages, you must learn. I don’t mean to sound professorial, but I made the same mistake—coming to Paris for an embarrassingly long time before I finally made the discovery. The passages are old-fashioned shopping malls from the late 1700s and early 1800s that provided cover from rain, mud and horses for the chic shopping ladies of yesteryear. Let’s not even discuss the city's open sewers during that era—you can understand why someone had the bright idea to build a passage. They come in all different shapes and sizes, so one will surely strike your fancy. All have skylights, and most have some serious interest for architecture buffs; many have unique shops and all are uniquely Parisian.

Not too long ago I took a tour of the passages with a tour guide—a lovely older lady who made up in kindness for a somewhat thin veneer of knowledge (I won’t offend her by outing her here). We toured the most famous passage, Vivienne, in the 2nd Arrondissement, plus Passage Colbert, Panoramas, Choiseul, Jouffroy, Brady and Verdeau, among others. There is something special about these secret little passageways. Walking into each one feels like you are unwrapping a different gift.

Vivienne is probably my favorite, with its spectacular mosaic tiles and great shopping. Here you’ll find a charming modern art gallery, Martine Moisan, which gives lessons on Saturdays; a fabulous florist, Emilio Robba; a killer tea salon, A Priori Thé; and a bookshop of rare finds. There’s even a bistro (Bistro Vivienne), plus a fine wine shop, Legrand Filles and Fils. (We love that "filles" comes first!) But the crème de la crème is Jean Paul Gaultier’s shop—oh la la, and there’s more. All info on Vivienne here. 

Passage Colbert is also quite beautiful, possibly more grand than Vivienne in style, but the only commercial thing there is the brasserie Le Grand Colbert, of Something’s Gotta Give movie fame—remember the romantic scene where Diane Keaton orders the roast chicken? Reviews are mixed, though David Lebovitz loves it—then again, he dined there with the director of the movie. Other tourists are not as keen. It is one of the few independently owned bistros left in Paris, though we think it could use a bit of polish.

A Priori Thé at the Galerie Vivienne.

Not to be missed is Galerie Véro-Dodat, with the überfamous Christian Louboutin—do I hear a flock of girls running? And as if that weren’t enough, you’ll find cosmetic goddess Terry de Gunzburg’s shop, By Terry, for makeup and a quick redo. Discover antique dolls at Robert Capia’s store.

The funkiest passage we toured was Passage Brady, which is chock-full of Indian and Pakistani restaurants. Some recommend these restos, but we felt they were a bit too shabby for our taste.

Passage du Grand Cerf is home to fashion and was declared the hippest of the arcades by the New York Times back in 2003. It houses Satellite, a costume jeweler we like, as well as Bei Style, a Chinese designer, among other interesting shops. Rickshaw is a fun store for interior accents with a Bollywood vibe. There's also MX Sylvie Branellec for pearls and PM Co Style for interesting interiors with Buddhas and such.

Passage des Panoramas is the oldest and has many restaurants and cafés, most notably Racines, which was recently sold. But the new owner promises to keep the same spirit—think organic cooking. Another shop of interest is the engraver Stern (profiled here), if you need an invitation engraved or would like to make yourself a proper French calling card. Is there a cooler thing to come home with than your own proper French calling cards?

There’s even an apartment you can rent (described here) in Passage du Bourg l’Abbé, which is in the 2nd with many of the other passages. (They tend to center around the 2nd and the 9th.) This apartment looks wonderful and is priced well, too. Plus, the 2nd is an area we really enjoy above and beyond the passages.

In Passage Jouffroy there’s also a small quaint hotel by the name of Hôtel Chopin. Cheap sleep, a bit shabby chic but affordable in a good and completely unique location, if you can deal with the tiny rooms and dated decor. 76–100 euros a night!

Passage Verdeau has antiques, comics, musical instruments and engravings. Passage des Princes specializes in toys. Jouffroy also has a darling toy store, Pain d’Épices, and a needlepoint shop, Le Bonheur des Dames. Old movie posters, Lebanese pastries and the wax museum of Paris, Musée Grévin, can also be found in Jouffroy.

There are nearly 30 passages, so post and tell us about your favorites. Happy touring!

INFO

Addresses here: Passages & Galeries

Tour the passages: Paris 360

Photos of many of the entrances: Paris Connected

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By Doni Belau

I am a crazed foodie, I’ll admit it. I obsess over whether to buy yet another fleur du sel or that perfect pink salt from Japan. I am a follower of real foodies with more qualifications than I, and I’m a voracious researcher of what and where to eat next. For me, Jamie Oliver has the best cooking show on TV, hands down. Anthony Bourdain is the funniest chef on the tube, and my favorite French foodie (OK, not actually French, but a Paris transplant nonetheless) is David Lebovitz. Yes, there are others—Clotilde Dusoulier, with her Chocolate and Zucchini blog, and former Gourmet writer (it pains me to write such words) Alexander Lobrano, both of whom are very reliable and wonderful to read. But I have a real soft spot for David. He’s funny—hysterical, really—and his new book, The Sweet Life in Paris, is an absolute joy to read. It’s not a glowing review of Paris; rather, he shows us Paris with all its quirks and foibles. And he shines a light on some of the less friendly sides of Parisian culture in a loving, good-natured way. But tucked inside the pages are some of the most delectable secret foodie finds in Paris.

David waxes poetic about a hole-in-the-wall where he claims to have found the city's best chocolat chaud (hot chocolate), Pâtisserie Viennoise. He details nearly every shelf full of merchandise in G. Detou, the chef and foodie stock house. As I read, I find I can barely hold myself back from jumping on the nearest plane and visiting immediately. Discussions of secret boulangeries tucked away in the far corners of Paris make me long for a real baguette, which is next to impossible to find in my corner of the world. I’m off to Paris shortly, but several weeks seems like years to wait when you’re a junkie and you need your Paris fix.

His hysterical stories of working as a chocolate stager at Patrick Roger (the most amazing chocolate shop in Paris, on boulevard St.-Germain) and learning how to skin an eel from some handsome fishmongers near the Marché d'Aligre leave me laughing out loud, much to the raised brow of my husband.

Here are a few of the secrets he shares in his book:

Biocoop
33, blvd Voltaire, in the 11th Arrondissement. 01 48 05 02 09.
Natural food store. 

Blé Sucré
7, rue Antoine Vollon, in the 12th. 01 43 40 77 73.
Pastries, breads and the best madeleines.

Brûlerie de Jourdain
140, rue de Belleville, in the 20th. 01 47 97 92 77.
They roast their own coffee and sell it.

À l’Étoile d’Or
30, rue Pierre Fontaine, in the 9th. 01 48 74 59 55.
Paris’s most unusual chocolate and candy shop. Lovely wrapping.

G. Detou
58, rue Tiquetonne, in the 2nd. 01 42 36 54 67.
For serious cooks, selling chocolate and a myriad of baking supplies.

Hôtel Royal Fromentin
11, rue Fromentin, in the 9th. 01 48 74 85 93.
For a glass of absinthe.

If you are like me and need your Paris fix but aren’t going anytime soon, pick up David’s book and laugh your socks off while feeding some of your longings.

For weekly restaurant reviews by our own Paris-based foodie, consult Meg Zimbeck’s Our Current Fave column.

By Doni Belau

1. Chocolate from Debauve & Gallais. We like the chocolate coins—pistoles—infused with coffee or tea. Expensive but heavenly. $36–$200

2. I Know How to Cook. France’s Joy of Cooking, first published in 1932. Recipes tested by Clotilde Dusoulier of Chocolate and Zucchini. This is the bible of French cooking, translated into English for the first time and released this fall. $26.32

3. Any Diptyque candle. Red Tubereuse is perfect for the holidays. $68

4. We love this one-of-a-kind set of 12 vintage Gien dessert plates, plus serving plate. $195

5. Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan perfume. So sexy. $124.05

6. For the girl on her way to Paris, the complete set of GG2P downloadable walking tours. OK, so we’re biased. $14.98

7. Princesse Tam Tam black nightdress for the bedroom, oh là là! 79 euros ($118)

8. Oh-so-cool Colette candles. 25 euros ($38) 

9. GG2P flight bag. The perfect pink carry-on bag. $38

10. Truffled goose foie gras from Gourmet Foods. A must-serve on Christmas or New Year’s Eve. $36.75

11. A trip to Paris to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle in person . . . priceless.

12. Cartier Love bracelet $36

13. La Mère de la Famille caramels and nougats. Caramels: 11.75 euros ($16.93); nougats: 14.70 euros ($21.19) 

14. For artsy friends, a Camille Claudel cast at the Musée Rodin gift shop—see instructions for ordering. 309 euros ($466)

15. For the music lover: The top 10 CDs of 2009 from Colette, the connoisseurs of cool. 180 euros ($271)

16. Pink-striped silk Hermès tie for your man. $168

17. For the budget-minded: A mini printable 2010 Paris calendar for $5—now that’s a steal.

18. For tiny Paris fans: Polly Goes to Paris skirt $14.50

19. The gift that pleases nearly everyone—Veuve Clicquot Rosé Champagne $71.99 

20. Vintage Pastis water pitcher $72

Whatever the gift, we wish you all a very merry and warm holiday season from the Girls' Guide to Paris.

By Doni Belau

Contrary to preconception, it IS possible to eat cheaply in Paris. Perhaps eating well with good value is the better way to put it. On a recent trip I planned out the days and meals where I would splurge and contented myself during the other meals to stay on a budget of 20 euros per meal or less.

For breakfast, I normally don't eat at my hotel. This trip I stayed at an affordable hotel and then, later in the week, moved to a bed-and-breakfast. On the first morning I was jet-lagged, and so I opted for the 12 euro hotel breakfast, which was quite stocked and hence filling. I enjoyed a basket of croissants and baguette plus yogurt, meats and cheese (making the German tourists happy) and fruit. The other days I tended to go to a café and have a croissant and coffee at the bar like the Parisians, which didn't set me back more than 5 euros. If I’m staying at an apartment then I find the nearest boulangerie and go out each day for the fresh goods.

As I was staying near Chinatown in the 13th, I traveled one night to avenue de Choisy and picked from the many places serving pho (a Vietnamese meat and noodle soup). There are plenty more to choose from on avenue d’Ivry, both streets being just a short walk south from Métro Place d’Italie. Picking a place is easy; just follow the crowd. The pho, which was nearly as good as when I had it in Vietnam, cost me 5 euros flat. Now that’s an affordable, filling and delicious meal. I splurged and added a beer—or was it two?

Another great cheap meal that I always love in Paris is l’As du Fallafel, on rue des Rosiers in the Marais. The falafel will run you about 4 euros. One night I got one and walked over to the Seine and enjoyed it riverside among all the picnickers and revelers who come out at night in the summer and cluster on the islands (Île de la Cité and Île St. Louis). Another no-brainer is crêpes. There is a fabulous crêpe place in the Marais called the Breizh Café, on rue Vieille du Temple. These folks are from Brittany (home of the buckwheat crêpe, also known as the galette), so they serve oysters, if you want to splurge, or you can eat handsomely for a mere 10–15 euros, with some alcoholic cider from the region thrown in. There is also a crêpe street with countless crêperies to choose from near the Montparnasse train station. Josselin, on rue du Montparnasse, is probably one of the more famous crêperies, but the group of various crêperies running down the street is kind of fun to peruse. No need for reservations at any of these places!

Your best bet for a truly affordable bistro meal is to order the formule or the plat du jour. At most bistros and other informal cafés you’ll find a formule (like a prix fixe), which might include an appetizer (called entrée) and an entrée (called the plat) for a reduced sum. Or you might order an appetizer, an entrée and a dessert for a reduced fee depending on what kind of formule they are offering. This is always a better deal than the à la carte menu, and it’s what you’ll almost always see the Parisians do. Also, in some places, you’ll see a chalkboard menu with a plat du jour. Unlike in a US kitchen, where you might find something the chef has an excess of and is hawking as the “special,” in Paris the plat du jour will often be the best thing that day as well as one of the most affordable. This is the best method to use and will enable you to eat at some of the better places we list in our restaurant section and not break the bank.

Of course, the time-honored tradition of a good baguette, a piece of cheese and a bottle of wine by the Seine or in the Luxembourg Gardens will always be a fabulous way to share some downtime among friends.

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