Girls' Guide to Paris: What’s Hot in Paris

Located in the 19th Arrondissement, near both the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l'Est, the Hôtel le Canal has been recently renovated. This boutique hotel was designed to be sustainable, producing its own heat and hot water, thanks to solar energy.

Tearing yourself away from Paris is like bursting out of a bubble of romance. But away from the charming capital, France’s rolling countryside and coast are not to be missed.

Staying at a B and B in Paris

Last summer I tried out the concept of staying at a bed-and-breakfast in Paris. I found the experience a bit odd. I recommend it for the adventurous and the friendly, not for those who feel privacy is paramount.

Speaking Touristically: Best Bikes and Buses

by Sandra Ban

Sunday, July 25, 2010 at 07:43 PM

Vélib’, a citywide bike-rental program, is a fun and affordable way to see Paris.
© Steve Sampson

You’ve probably heard about the inventive green initiatives in Paris like Nature Capitale. One of the most popular is Vélib’, a citywide bike-rental program. In a city (a country!) where biking is extremely common, everyone in Paris has an opinion about the program. Many will tell you that Vélib’ riders are the No. 1 traffic hazard—and it can take a while to get accustomed to the heavy bikes. Britons, in particular, often ride “the wrong way.”

But if used with care, Vélib’ is a great way to save money while exploring the city. It’s also useful for getting home late at night if you can find a borne (station) that’s not empty. Joining the system requires a deposit of 150 euros; this can be placed on your credit card at any Vélib’ station. When you purchase a subscription—for one day, seven days or one year—you get a code that you use whenever you want to pick up a bike. Subscriptions entitle you to 30 free minutes at a time, with charges accruing only if you exceed that allotment: the first additional half hour is 1 euro; each one thereafter is 2 euros until the third half hour, after which the charge rises to 4 euros.

TIP: If you’re time conscious and the weather cooperates, you can get around Paris almost free with Vélib’. You can monitor your costs (your “account”) on the screen of any borne at any time. The main problem for US travelers is having a compatible credit card: European credit and debit cards are known as smart cards, which are embedded with a puce (chip); most US cards don’t have it, but American Express Blue cards work. There’s a free Vélib’ app you can download, and the Internet is rife with tips on the program in many languages. You can also download a pdf of a map showing special cycle routes closed to traffic on Sundays and holidays.

Paris buses are also a great economical way to view the city while on wheels. Just don’t ride them during rush hour, as the school day ends or when it’s broiling hot. All that’s required to use the system is a metro ticket or pass. You can buy a ticket from the driver (1.70 euros) or in the metro (1.60 euros); tickets bought on the spot are valid only for that journey. To request a stop, press the red button. Several lines are especially useful as bus tours.

TIP: The east-west route of the No. 69 runs between the Eiffel Tower (Champ de Mars) and the Père Lachaise cemetery, via the quai d’Orsay, the Louvre and the Marais. It offers as much sightseeing value as any company.

NIGHT: Under the Noctilien program, the city runs 42 lines of night buses, hourly from 30 minutes after midnight. From Monday to Friday the buses run until 5:30 a.m., and later on weekends. Buses and stops are clearly marked. Spoiler alert: on weekends and hot summer holidays, partygoers flood onto these buses in the wee hours.

For tours, two main companies run hop-on/hop-off bus jaunts. If you’re short on time but want to cram in the sights, or if you have trouble walking, you may want to try one. Be forewarned: these are tourism writ in capital letters and, as such, always a compromise. You may get great snaps or have a memorable encounter. But you may also end up hot, tired and frustrated. Make sure the weather is decent, and remember that during the off-season, buses come by less frequently. Do not expect much enlightenment from the audio commentaries, which are often worn tapes or out of synch with your route. Also don’t expect great service. Operating these buses is one of the most thankless jobs in Paris.

Your best choice is L’Open Tour, which offers four routes. The Paris Grand Tour is the longest and most comprehensive. Tickets are 29 euros per adult for a day, and 32 euros per adult for 2 days; 15 euros for children ages 4–11, for either 1 or 2 days; free for kids under 4. L’Open Tour offers one- and two-day passes that can be delivered in advance to your hotel but not to an apartment; or for a fee you can have the pass(es) sent to you before leaving home. (If you’re shy about riding bright lime-and-yellow buses with people from all over the world, don’t try this tour.)

There’s also Les Cars Rouges. An offshoot of the red bus tours in London, this competitor of L’Open offers a nine-stop pass that is valid for two days. Tickets cost 24 euros per adult, 18 euros for those in groups of 12 and 12 euros for children ages 4–11. Essentially a less expensive, miniversion of L’Open, Les Cars Rouges provides less value for your money.

Editor's note: For the Girls’ Guide’s handpicked tours of Paris, consult our Book It page.

You might also like:

Want to see Paris in a really special way? I recommend the ultimate in summer touring—via a Citroën Deux Chevaux, or 2CV. Engineered by Pierre-Jules Boulanger, and first produced in 1949 but last manufactured in the 1990s, these beloved cars are mythic.

Tagged Paris, France, women, Cynthia Rose, Shopping, travel, Tours, Summer, buses, bikes, Noctilien, Vélib' in Art/Culture

Countryside, Wine and Romantic Hotels

by Sandra Ban

Thursday, July 22, 2010 at 10:00 AM

By Holly Maguire

The five-star Hôtel du Palais Impérial Resort and Spa enjoys overlooks the beach at Biarritz.
Hôtel du Palais Impérial Resort and Spa.

Tearing yourself away from Paris is like bursting out of a bubble of romance. But away from the charming capital, France’s rolling countryside and coast are not to be missed. Each of the villages retains a provincial distinctness that goes much deeper than cheese specialties. If you visit Paris in high summer, you might find it somewhat deserted, as the locals flee for the lush Loire valley, fresh Alpine air or Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts. Each region, from Brittany to the Côte d’Azur, boasts a rich cultural heritage, delectable gastronomy and unique hotels that embody local traditions.

The small country hotel Le Vieux Logis, near Bordeaux, has a relaxing pool, gourmet restaurant and lush gardens.
Restaurant le Vieux Logis.

In southwest France, the Aquitaine region borders Spain, with the Atlantic lapping at its shores. Alongside the stunning coastline, the region is home to the historic cities of Bordeaux and Biarritz, where life is a breeze in one of the local luxury hotels, which offer top-class service. France introduced the five-star classification for hotels in 2009, and the famous Hôtel du Palais Impérial Resort and Spa enjoys the top designation, overlooking the beach at Biarritz. What a dream to while away an evening slurping oysters and wandering seaside!

The fresh and airy Château Grattequina, on the bank of the Garonne, oozes the charm of centuries past.
Château Grattequina.

But to really soak up the provincial charm, it’s best to whisk your lover away into the fresh air of the country (and why not in a vintage Citroën?) and enjoy the old buildings that have been converted into sumptuous accommodations. Many farmhouses and châteaux have been revamped, with all the modern conveniences, and made into beautiful, romantic hotels. The fresh and airy Château Grattequina sits on the bank of the Garonne, and with just 10 rooms, oozes the charm of centuries past. Near Bordeaux, it is the ideal escape from the buzz of the city. For exquisite gourmet cuisine served in an old tobacco-drying room, stay in the small country hotel Le Vieux Logis, which has a relaxing pool and lush gardens.

For romance and regional specialties after your visit to Paris this summer, head to the stunning southwest region of France and indulge in great wine and accommodations.

Visit the following site to learn more about romantic hotels in France.

Editor's note: For hotels and tours in Paris, consult our Book It page.

You might also like:

Girl Time with Marie Antoinette

Last week the girls and I cuddled up to watch Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. I love this film—all that pink and powdered blue, all that sumptuous silk and those decadent pastries—it really speaks to my inner girl. And being teens, my girls loved it, too. Suddenly it seemed I had found the perfect way to squeeze both some Mom time and some culture into them at once.

Coming to Paris in July or August? High summer in the city is one long social whirl. There are a few unfortunate Parisians who find themselves spending July and August in the city, instead of disappearing to St. Barthélemy, Île de Ré or the Riviera like everyone else. Just imagine having to spend the entire summer season in Paris, lounging in the Jardin du Luxembourg and sipping wine on terraces. Doesn’t the heart bleed?

Another French Revolution (With Chocolate and Champagne, of Course)

Tagged Paris, France, women, Shopping, travel, hotels, Art/Culture, Summer, Holly Maguire, Aquitaine, Biarritz, Bordeaux, countryside in Art/Culture

Girl Talk with Ariane de Courcel

by Sandra Ban

Tuesday, July 20, 2010 at 10:12 AM

By Casey O’Brien Blondes

Few Parisians are as fully immersed in the world of contemporary art as Ariane de Courcel. As vice president of Friends of la Maison Rouge, she has a job that entails extensive fieldwork, including studio visits and gallery and museum private views, as well as tours of important collections, exhibitions and art fairs throughout Europe. This quintessentially elegant St.-Germain resident shares insider art tips and her carnet of favorite restaurants and shops.

La Maison Rouge is well known among contemporary-arts cognoscenti, but how would you describe its unique program to visitors who haven’t heard of you? What will they find there that other museums and galleries don’t offer?
Our status as a private foundation that functions without public funding allows us total freedom when creating exhibitions. We specialize in shows of private collections and installations by artists who are little known to the general public, usually before they’ve been shown by other French cultural institutions. The exhibitions reflect [founder] Antoine de Galbert’s taste and ideas. The physical space is unusual, and it emits a very special atmosphere.

Which are your four favorite Parisian museums?
Le Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, for the high caliber of its historic art collection, interspersed with works of contemporary art; the Palais de Tokyo, for its avant-garde creations and bohemian-grunge aesthetic; the Centre Pompidou, for the most beautiful views of Paris, superb exhibitions and the presentation of its collection; and Le Musée de la Vie Romantique, with its time-capsule ambience, hollyhocks blooming in the garden and intimate exhibitions.

Which galleries should we visit to see the best of emerging French artists and photographers?
Jocelyn Wolff, Anne de Villepoix, Françoise Paviot [for photography] and Michel Rein.

You’re something of an expert on the 6th Arrondissement, having lived there for 25 years. Which restaurants, shops and destinations are your neighborhood coups de coeur?
La Méditerranée [classic fish restaurant in a timeless locale]; Azabu [for Japanese]; Les Cinoches [contemporary chic bistro]; Le Comptoir du Relais [haute bistro for dinner, casual at lunch]; Pascal Mutel, for flowers; Jean-Paul Hévin, for chocolate; and Cire Trudon [royal candle maker since 1643].

The entry to La Maison Rouge.

What original Parisian souvenir would you offer as a gift to a girlfriend overseas?
An artist’s limited edition of a photograph or print from La Maison Rouge.

Is there a place you like to shop with your three daughters [all in their early 20s] that epitomizes Parisian chic?
Isabel Marant; Le Bon Marché, the department store above La Grande Epicerie; Simone; and Garderobe, which sells just trousers.

What three things would you do if you suddenly had the day off and decided to pamper yourself?
Go to Dessange (at 7, rue de l’Odéon, in the 6th) to have my hair styled, a foot massage by Isabelle and a great manicure.

Where would you take your husband for a romantic date?
We’d go for a walk around the arcades of the Palais Royal, followed by lunch at the Grand Véfour.

What are the outstanding differences between your French and Anglo-Saxon girlfriends?
My American and English girlfriends are more independent and original. They’ll always make time for a drink at a branché spot. They tend to work in the fashion and art world or write marvelous books. They travel more adventurously and are less self-conscious and sensitive to what people think of them. My French friends have more serious jobs, are preoccupied by their careers or their husbands’ jobs, organize lovely dinner parties and make a real effort to be elegant and have great-looking hair.

As someone who travels a great deal to other cultural capitals, what makes Paris stand out today?
The quality of its museums; bookstores like La Hune, Librairie de l’Escalier and Galignani, and the old and rare booksellers; excellent antique drawings galleries. Paris is simply an exceptional place to shop, whether you’re in Belleville, around the Bastille or in St.-Germain.

INFO

Azabu
3, rue André Mazet, in the 6th.
01 46 33 72 05.

Le Comptoir du Relais
9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, in the 6th.
01 43 29 12 05.

Garderobe
18, rue St.-Sulpice, in the 6th.
01 56 24 22 11.

La Hune
170, blvd St.-Germain, in the 6th.
01 45 48 35 85. Mon–Sat, 10 a.m.–7:45 p.m. Sun, 11 a.m.–7:45 p.m.

Librairie de l’Escalier
12, rue Monsieur le Prince, in the 6th.
01 43 54 39 89.

Editor's note: Why not download a do-it-yourself walking tour of Paris?

You might also like:

Maybe your next trip to Paris isn’t just around the corner—but your heart and appetite have taken up permanent residence here. In that case, you will definitely want The French Women Don’t Get Fat Cookbook, recently published by Atria Books. This is the latest offering from Mireille Guiliano, everyone’s favorite expert Frenchwoman.

Packing for any trip can be frustrating and daunting. But when you’re heading to the fashion capital of the world, the task can seem even more arduous. You know that Parisians are stylish and chic, so you want to do your best to fit in. But you also want to be comfortable, without toting around unnecessary stuff.

Girl Time with Marie Antoinette

The Eiffel Tower: Friend or Foe?

by Lamar C

Sunday, July 18, 2010 at 11:35 PM

Speaking Touristically: Paris by Wheels or Water?

Paris's Eiffel Tower was built not just for the Exposition Universelle in 1889 but also for the centennial of the French Revolution

Before last Christmas, the Paris auction house Drouot celebrated with a sale it dubbed “Paris, Mon Amour.” The centerpiece was 25^1/2 feet of the Eiffel Tower’s staircase. This was no random stretch of iron, but part of a spiral staircase once used by Gustave Eiffel to reach his private office. Expected to fetch around $80,000, those steps sold for $154,380.

However much they mock their tower, most Parisians love it. Eiffel maintained that it was purpose-built for them and created as if “formed by the wind itself.” His mighty monument has always served to commemorate; it was built not just for the Exposition Universelle in 1889 but also for that year’s centennial of the French Revolution. Its splendiferous nightly light shows started out as part of the city’s millennium celebrations in 2000.

Still, what you want to know is, Is a trip to the top really worth it? After all, this is the most crowded, most visited, most photographed landmark in Paris. The answer is yes, provided you plan ahead. For costs and regulations, as well as reservations that can save you from the omnipresent queues, study the tower’s website carefully. Book online if possible, or buy elevator tickets at the guichet marked "restaurant." Near that ticket office is the entrance for the tower restaurants and for online ticket holders. (Note: the tower does not accept Paris Museum Passes.) If you decide to go ticketless, try to arrive before 9 a.m. in the high season; then just queue until the ticket offices open. Your only alternative for spontaneity will be to arrive just before closing time. Also, avoid Tuesdays, when many museums are closed.

Reserve ahead for the Eiffel Tower in Paris; buy tickets on the tower's website
© Steve Sampson

If you book a table at one of the tower’s two Alain Ducasse eateries, you’ll be able to avoid the lines completely. The higher-up Jules Verne is swank and überpricey but does boast its own (free of charge) elevator. Trendier, and more affordable, is 58 Tour Eiffel, an elegant version of restauration rapide (fast food). Like that of Jules Verne, its design is by Patrick Jouin, who created numerous Paris amenities, from our sanisettes (public toilets) to the Vélib’ bicycle stands. Lunch here comes partly in a steel picnic basket. A false bridge and a glass cupola help the café blend right into the landmark structure around it. (After 5:30 p.m., it becomes a bar-café.)

While the Ducasse eateries offer stylish classicism, the iconic tower itself remains eccentric. Regularly the site of stunts, performance art and even ice-skating, it is also a magnet for suicides (three or four people a year try to kill themselves at the tower) and the occasional daredevil. Historians date the first tower fatality to 1912, when a dressmaker named François Reichelt fell to his death while demonstrating a homemade parachute. Because his act was filmed by a newsreel team, Reichelt’s demise was seen by the world—a scandal as big as any later seen on YouTube.

Extreme experiments at the tower continue today. On May 29, French Rollerblading champion Taig Khris set a world record by plunging 12^1/2 meters into a giant skateboarding ramp on the tower. Cheered on by thousands, Khris landed safely. Afterward he described the tower, sounding like so many before him, as “a place that gave me crazy dreams, then made them true.”

Tip Sheet

The best places to photograph the Eiffel Tower? From directly underneath; from the top pointing down; or from Place du Trocadero, directly across the Seine. For more tips on how to take tip-top shots of the tower, visit WhyGo.

Editor's note: For handpicked Paris tours that we love, consult our Book It page.

You might also like:

Your Summer Couture Special: Time Travel at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Paris Peepers

by Lamar C

Thursday, July 15, 2010 at 07:34 AM

By Sylvia Sabes

François Pinton designed sunglasses inspired by Jackie O.
François Pinton claims his own brush with Jackie O.

You can take the girl out of California, but you can't take California out of the girl. This is my excuse for having a collection of sunglasses that equals that of a Hollywood movie star. It is something of an obsession with me. Like other women and their MasterCard, I never leave home without my shades.

Some sunglasses have been made into icons by the stars of the 1950s and ’60s. Jack Nicholson's cooler-than-thou Ray-Bans and John Lennon's wire frames can be found just about anywhere. I wouldn't be surprised if your neighborhood gas station carries them. But there are other vintage styles that you can't easily find at home.

She doesn't look like Mme Onassis, but she does have her glasses!

I first started thinking about this when passing a window display at JLC Opticien on rue du Bac. A gorgeous pair of oval black frames was screaming "Audrey!" I had to explore. Sure enough, London eyewear designer Oliver Goldsmith created the frames for the young star's role in Charade, which is set in Paris. His granddaughter has recently begun reviving his vintage styles, so they are available but still hard to find.

Oliver Goldsmith designed sunglasses to suit the style of Audrey Hepburn.
Audrey in her Oliver Goldsmiths.

A week later I fell for a stunning green pair in the window of Traction. I had my Audreys in hand but continued looking, as the pair seemed hauntingly familiar. "This is a very special pair of frames, Madame. These frames were designed for Jackie Onassis herself." They were hard to resist, but thankfully for my pocketbook, the store did not have Jackie O.'s preferred tortoiseshell in stock.

Jackie O. sunglasses in every color.
Jackie O. frames in every color.

Sighing my way home through the 7th Arrondissement, I passed the nostalgic frames that adorn the windows at François Pinton, a posh little boutique, where glasses sit in faux antique armoires, waiting to be tried on. More famous and contemporary French brands like Lafont and Alain Mikli are also in the neighborhood. Their collections are found across the globe, but they do have some frames unique to the local market.

François Pinton has sunglasses and a saga to sell.

For my personal quest, I am now obsessed with Yves Saint Laurent's 1970s-style oversize spectacles. I am sure they are out there somewhere, and I can't think of a more logical destination for my search than the streets of Paris.

Editor's note: Check out the exclusive shopping tours of Paris offered by our partners.

You might also like:

Just in case you can’t afford the latest haute couture (the shows run through Thursday, July 8), Paris has the perfect quick fix for any fashion fanatic. Even if you have already drooled over the YSL retrospective, you’ll find yet more vintage style at the Arts Décoratifs. There, until October 10, you can view the best of European fashion from the 1970s through ’80s.

Soldes: The Bon Plan of Attack

I’ve been through four rounds of Parisian soldes. Which is enough to have helped me learn a helpful strategy or two, but few enough that I’m still willing to go to battle in the name of French fashion. The summer sales begin Wednesday, June 30, and run until Tuesday, August 3. Here are les bons pointers so you, too, can take home some serious shopping spoils.

My first winter in Paris, I was cold. I was 20 years old and a student without much income, so I did what students still do today and headed to Les Halles in central Paris. The mall contains “affordable” brand names, but even these were beyond my means, so I was looking at the stands that surround the mall.

Bands, Beaches and Bastille Day: Summer in Paris

by Lamar C

Monday, July 12, 2010 at 10:36 PM

By Sarah Horrocks

When summer hits Paris, it's time for Paris Plages, an artificial
beach along one bank of the Seine.

Coming to Paris in July or August? High summer in the city is one long social whirl.

There are a few unfortunate Parisians who find themselves spending July and August in the city, instead of disappearing to St. Barthélemy, Île de Ré or the Riviera like everyone else. Just imagine having to spend the entire summer season in Paris, lounging in the Jardin du Luxembourg and sipping wine on terraces. Doesn’t the heart bleed?

To cheer up the poor souls, Monsieur the Mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, kindly organizes an artificial beach along one bank of the Seine, in the city center. With real sand, water fountains, deck chairs, parasols, palm trees, games and ice cream and refreshment stands, it’s (almost) the real deal. Paris Plages runs from July 20 to August 19. The event also has a satellite at the Bassin de la Villette, in the eastern part of the city, where you can try water sports and activities such as tai chi.

The Paris Quartier d’Eté festival brings dance, music, theatre and circus
performances to locations all over the city.

And that’s not all. A series of concerts, Fnac Indétendances, runs from July 23 to August 14 at the Hôtel de Ville, next to the beach. This year’s lineup includes Belgian golden oldie Arno, American rockers Nada Surf and British trip-hopper Tricky, who used to work with Massive Attack. Entry is free.

The Paris Quartier d’Eté festival, now in its 21st year, brings dance, music, theatre and circus performances to locations all over the city from July 14 to August 14. Some are free; for the rest, tickets can be purchased through the website.

Bastille Day (July 14) is a national holiday, but the party starts on the night of the 13th, with the first of the traditional dances thrown by firemen (bals des pompiers). If a night out in the company of some fine young Gallic things in uniform seems like a fitting way to celebrate the birth of the republic to you, check out the list of venues. A concert also takes place on the 13th at Bastille, where it all began, at 8:30 p.m. The firemen’s dances are held on the evening of the 14th, too, but really there’s no other destination than the Champ de Mars, where a stunning fireworks display takes place against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower. This year’s theme is “Colors of Francophonie.” The fireworks start at 11 p.m., but plan to arrive early to find a decent spot. And there’s always a special moment when “La Marseillaise” is played. We didn’t exactly hear it much during the World Cup, so practice your pronunciation! There are various translations here.

The Parc Floral, in Paris, holds a summer weekend jazz festival.
The Parc Floral holds a summer weekend jazz festival.

On hazy summer evenings, three-hour aperitifs and late-night picnics by the Seine are better than dinner at Fouquet’s. My favorite places to picnic are the romantic Pont des Arts, overlooking Île de la Cité, with views of Notre Dame; the Canal St.-Martin in the 10th and 11th Arrondissements, where boules players often gather on the banks; the sloping Parc des Buttes Chaumont, in the 19th; and the Parc Floral, on the eastern edge of the city, which hosts a jazz festival on weekends through August 1. Admission is 5 euros (2.50 euros for attendees under 25).

In the nicest possible way, Paris in summer—i.e., without most Parisians—is much more relaxing. Business grinds to a halt, some restaurants close up and public transport is less frequent. But you won’t get shoved out of the way in the metro, the quieter streets are even more pleasant to wander and there’s no shortage of entertainment.

INFO

For updates on Paris Plages, keep checking the mayor’s website and the website of the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Editor's note: Try our downloadable walking tours of Paris.

You might also like:

Discovering Jewish Paris

Think of the Marais, and hundreds of hip boutiques spring to mind, leaving you feeling like a little girl in a sweetshop, dizzy on sugar, unsure where to start. While that’s certainly one impression you might have of the neighborhood, there’s another, older facet to the area. Centered here is a strong Jewish community, with a rich and tragic history, that has recently been revived.

Don’t fall for the “surly French waiter” stereotype. Paris has all kinds of staff. The solution to perceived service problems is 1) remain polite, 2) remain patient and 3) never tell anyone he or she is “wrong.” Remember, French battles are rarely won by Anglo-Saxon tactics.

Soldes: The Bon Plan of Attack

Tagged Paris, France, women, Shopping, music, travel, Art/Culture, parks, festivals, Summer, Sarah Horrocks, dances, Bastille, Paris Plages, bands, concerts in Art/Culture

New in Paris: July Edition

by Web Master

Thursday, July 08, 2010 at 02:40 AM

By Robin Locker

Hôtel le Canal.

New Hotels

Hôtel le Canal
Located in the 19th Arrondissement, near both the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l'Est, the Hôtel le Canal has been recently renovated. This boutique hotel was designed to be sustainable, producing its own heat and hot water, thanks to solar energy. The decor of its 36 comfortable bedrooms (2 are accessible to guests with disabilities) is inspired by cinema themes, and includes wood floors, soothing blue walls, earth-toned accents and relaxing lighting. Each guest room also comes with a desk, telephone and flat-screen television. Rooms start at 63 euros.

New Museums and Exhibitions

Suite Elle Décoration
For the third consecutive year, the former apartment of Jacques Carlu (architect of the Palais de Chaillot) will be in the hands of another great designer. This time Jean Paul Gaultier has re-created the space, which will be on view until October 2011. Gaultier's signature nautical theme of blue stripes on a white background is present throughout the apartment, and the lounge has been transformed into an indoor garden, with green vegetation gracing the walls and furnishings. Visits are limited to Saturday and Sunday from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m., and cost 3 euros. The space can even be rented out for private events.

Paris in Love
You still have time to catch the “Paris d'Amour” photo exhibition at the Hôtel de Ville. Through July 31 about 100 photos taken at weddings and civil unions in Paris by photographer Gérard Uféras will be on display, showcasing weddings and couples celebrating in the City of Light. The exhibition is open from Monday to Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission is free.

Antoine Watteau’s Engravings
The Musée du Louvre is hosting the exhibition “Antoine Watteau and the Art of Engraving” until October 11. The show will include about 100 Watteau works, illustrating the art of engraving during the 18th century. Admission is included in the museum ticket.

A Lucien Pellat-Finet boutique has popped up on rue St.-Honoré, in the 1st Arrondissement, in Paris.

The new Lucien Pellat-Finet boutique on rue St.-Honoré.

Hot Shopping

Desigual Shop, the atypical Spanish brand, opened a flagship store in the 9th Arrondissement, steps from the Opéra Garnier. Clothing for men, women and kids, as well as hip accessories, are on offer at affordable prices.

A brand new vintage boutique called Goldymama has opened on rue Surmelin, in the 20th Arrondissement. Funky vintage prints, evening wear, designer items, handbags, hats and jewelry at bargain prices make this a fun place to shop. You can even shop online!

Known for luxe and unique cashmere, Lucien Pellat-Finet has opened a two-story boutique on rue St.-Honoré, in the 1st Arrondissement. The sparkling, bright white interior shows off his high-priced lines for men, women and children, as well as home furnishings.

Hot Happenings

Fête Foraine du Jardin des Tuileries
Through August 22 this annual funfair is enjoyed by children and adults, making it one of the biggest events of summer. For two months the Tuileries gardens is transformed into a carnival, with fairground rides, colored balloons, food and more. Don't miss the Ferris wheel, which offers up stunning views of Paris both day and night.

Open-Air Cinema Festival
From July 17 through August 22, locals and visitors alike will flock to the Parc de la Villette for Cinéma en Plein Air, the annual open-air cinema festival. Bring a blanket, stake out your slice of lawn and watch 1 of 36 different films projected onto the big outdoor screen. Some may even be in English. The best part is that admission is free!

New for Jet-setters

Follow the Parisians and head out of town to the French Riviera for your summer vacation. Head to St.-Tropez, where Louis Vuitton recently opened a renovated boutique on rue François Sibilli, which resembles a lavish Mediterranean villa with a beach. There you'll find stylish resort wear to don during your visit. The inner courtyard boasts fragrant orange and jasmine trees.

Hot Paris Reads

A new, alternative guidebook has made an appearance on the Paris radar. 24 Hours Paris, by Marsha Moore, groups content by time, rather than by activity. The book offers a fresh look at exploring hidden areas of the city, and it’s receiving rave reviews.

Editor's note: For Girls’ Guide handpicked hotels and tours, see our Book It page.

You might also like:

Tagged Paris, France, women, Shopping, books, travel, exhibitions, museums, hotels, Art/Culture, Robin Locker, festivals in Art/Culture

Arthur Rimbaud: The Poet as Pop Star

by Sandra Ban

Sunday, July 04, 2010 at 01:39 AM

Top Anglophone Bookstores in Paris

A graffiti portrait on a fence, by Pedrô, evokes the poet Arthur Rimbaud.
Graffiti portrait on a fence, blvd Raspail, 2009, by Pedrô.

Paris, the capital of la vie de bohème! The city where artists love and starve together, shock the bourgeoisie, then die tragically young. These myths were set in motion in 1843 by a magazine series called “Scenes from a Bohemian Life.” They were tales from a hard-up poet named Henri Murger that revealed his own daily struggles as well as those of his friends.

Murger’s stories became a book as well as a hit play (one that later inspired Puccini’s opera La Bohème), and their popularity brought Paris a wave of would-be artists. By the mid-1800s students had flooded into the capital, each determined to become a “bohemian.” One of them, however, did more than outstrip Murger’s models—he completely redefined youthful decadence. This was Arthur Rimbaud, the subject of a trendy Marais exhibition, “Rimbaudmania: The Eternity of an Icon,” at the Galerie des Bibliothèques, in the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris.

In 1871, at the age of 17, this well-schooled Catholic boy made a beeline for Paris. He was keen to reject both family and sobriety, and his search for urban experience led to stormy affairs (most notably with the poet Paul Verlaine, who left his wife and child for Rimbaud, whom he fought with and shot at). But despite his dissolute life, Rimbaud penned sentiments that caused no less than Victor Hugo to call him “an infant Shakespeare.” Rimbaud’s volumes The Drunken Boat, A Season in Hell and Illuminations endure as cornerstones of his bad-boy philosophy: art requires a “systematic derangement of the senses.”

Coffee mugs are among the objects that evoke Rimbaud in the exhibition "Rimbaudmania," at the Galerie des Bibliothèques, in Paris.
Rimbaud mugs by CafePress.

At the age of 20 Rimbaud renounced writing forever. He spent the rest of his days traveling to Indonesia, Cyprus, Africa and the Middle East. By 37 his restless soul was gone—consumed by exotic locations, lovers of both sexes and adventures that included arms dealing.

“Rimbaudmania” begins with a clutch of manuscripts, handwritten letters and rare photos, all that remains of the man. Yet the exhibition proves his legend is truly worldwide, one that spans pop and opera, comics and fashion, painting and adverts. You can hear Rimbaud’s poetry in a dozen tongues, then see versions told as bandes dessinées (graphic novels) and Japanese manga.

One room is devoted to Rimbaud’s influence on music and film, and it’s striking to see the role he played in 1970s punk. Protopunk musician Richard Hell took his name from the poet, while guitarist Tom Verlaine baptized himself after Rimbaud’s lover. One of Rimbaud’s greatest fans has always been Patti Smith, who began her career singing “Go, Rimbaud, go!” There are many others to hear and see: the Clash, Yves Montand, Barbara Hendricks, Serge Gainsbourg, Bob Dylan, Van Morrison. Leonardo DiCaprio played Rimbaud on-screen, and there is a “Season in Hell” photo series by Robert Mapplethorpe. The exhibition features visual art from many genres, including works by Cocteau, Picasso and Giacometti, as well as graffiti portraits ripped from Paris boulevards.

This brooch is among the objects evoking Arthur Rimbaud in the exhibition "Rimbaudmania," at the Galerie des Bibliothèques, in Paris.
Among the "fetish objects" in the show is this brooch with a picture
of Rimbaud, by Jodi Bloom.

The show’s intrepid curator, Claude Jeancolas, author of 17 books on the poet, has even filled a room with “fetish objects” evoking Rimbaud. These range from key rings and pins to furniture and fashion. One contributor to the collection is Jodi Bloom, a jewelry maker, who lives in Washington, D.C. She explains, “Claude ordered a Rimbaud rosary from my website. . . . When I emailed to say thank-you and give the delivery time frame, he wrote back and said my piece would be in the show.”

Such discoveries typify the eternal rebel who is, according to Jeancolas, “omnipresent in the arts. He is everywhere and, certainly, in cyberspace—home to some of our most unexpected, poetic encounters.”

“Rimbaudmania: The Eternity of an Icon” is on view at the Galerie des Bibliothèques through August 1. From September 15 to December 15, the exhibition will be at the Musée Arthur Rimbaud, in the poet’s hometown, Charleville-Mézières (Champagne-Ardennes).

Want more?

You can watch a virtual preview of the exhibition here. To learn about the history of the French bohemian lifestyle (in English), click here.

Editor's note: To find the best hotel to suit your particular tastes and interests, click here.

You might also like:

However comfortable you are speaking and reading French, there may be times when you long for a quiet read in English. Fret not. Since Edith Wharton’s day, Parisians have loved catching up with Anglo-Saxon writing.

Dates for the Diary: Exhibitions

Here are a few current and upcoming exhibitions in Paris that I’m getting excited about, ranging from painting to photography to music. I hope that you’ll all feel inspired, too! The first two are closing soon, so get hopping.

It is below zero on a Wednesday morning, and the line at the Grand Palais is an hour long for ticket holders. And yet they stand. From Klimt to Picasso, from Warhol to Rodin, the French love their art—which means there are great shows to attend throughout the year.

Your Summer Couture Special: Time Travel at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

by Sandra Ban

Saturday, July 03, 2010 at 11:30 AM

Soldes: The Bon Plan of Attack

A design by Thierry Mugler, whose work can be seen in "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion," at the Arts Décoratifs, in Paris.
Design by Thierry Mugler. Photo by Guy Marineau/
Courtesy the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Just in case you can’t afford the latest haute couture (the shows run through Thursday, July 8), Paris has the perfect quick fix for any fashion fanatic. Even if you have already drooled over the YSL retrospective, you’ll find yet more vintage style at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. There, until October 10, you can view the best of European fashion from the 1970s through ’80s. "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion" boasts such names as Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Kenzo, Thierry Mugler and Yohji Yamamoto.

A design by Chanel, whose couture is included in "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion," at the Arts Décoratifs, in Paris.
Design by Chanel. Photo by Dominique Maitre/
Courtesy the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

This show is the first installment of an ambitious “complete history” that has been curated by the expert Olivier Saillard. (Part two, covering the years 1990–2010, will open on November 25.) Saillard, head of fashion exhibitions at the Arts Décoratifs since 2002, was recently appointed director of the formidable Musée Galliera, the fashion museum of Paris. Although closed for restoration until 2011, the Musée Galliera has made cameos in films like Sex and the City and The Devil Wears Prada.

This exhibition gives us a taste of what the talented Saillard will do there. In it, to outline the progress of modern style, he mobilizes “key pieces from twenty years of creation,” augmented by 200 documents, films and video.

A design by Azzedine Alaïa, whose couture is included in "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion," at the Arts Décoratifs, in Paris.
Design by Azzedine Alaïa. Photo by
Dominique Maitre/Courtesy the Musée
des Arts Décoratifs.

All of it is framed by two events in couture. The first is the 1971 premiere of Yves Saint Laurent’s “Scandal” show, an event that launched platform shoes, padded shoulders and 1940s retro. The other is “Rap-Pieuses,” or “Religious Rappers,” a collection shown by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1990. Both merged a new look with a social moment, but each pointed fashion in a different way. Saillard deliberately arranged his show with these two “bad boys” to illustrate how modern couture became so involved with celebrity.

A design by Thierry Mugler, whose work can be seen in "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion," at the Arts Décoratifs, in Paris.
Design by Thierry Mugler. Photo by Dominique
Maitre/Courtesy the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

The show also includes triumphs by less well-remembered names like Madame Grès, Azzedine Alaïa, Dorothée Bis and Claude Montana. Special treats include early Issey Miyake, as well as archive pieces by Comme de Garçons and Ter et Bantine (a label run by Chantal Thomass between 1967 and 1975).

Above all, the exhibition puts current couture in context. Today, for instance, “Kaiser Karl” Lagerfeld seems to be everywhere. (Recently he “re-designed” an issue of the French newspaper Libération, drawing even the ads.) This show helps you see how he emerged and changed, from his early designs at Chloé to his first work at Chanel. The same is true of Christian Lacroix. He’s shown both as the designer behind the Jean Patou label, then, under his own name, as the king of late-’80s luxury.

A design by Jean Paul Gaultier, whose couture is included in "The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion," at the Arts Décoratifs, in Paris.
Design by Jean Paul Gaultier. Photo by
Dominique Maitre/Courtesy the Musée des
Arts Décoratifs.

In 2009, before he mounted this show, Saillard published his research as a luscious book that is still available. You may not want to lug home Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine, but this, the perfect souvenir, is easily ordered online from Amazon.ca, Amazon.fr or FNAC.

"The Ideal History of Contemporary Fashion" is at the Arts Décoratifs through October 10. There are a wide range of activities and guided visits related to the exhibition, and the museum has even created electronic postcards for you to send.

Editor's note: Try the Girls' Guide's handpicked fabulous French fashion tours.

You might also like:

Dates for the Diary: Exhibitions

Edvard Munch
Pinacothèque
Through August 8
Think of Edvard Munch, and his famous Scream is likely the first image that pops up, overshadowing much of his other work.

Get Your Footie On

by Sandra Ban

Saturday, July 03, 2010 at 01:37 AM

By Sylvia Sabes

The players are larger than life, and the view is not bad, either.

The World Cup is the most watched sporting event in, well, the world. It surpasses even the Olympics in number of viewers, and it hits Europe like a raging fever every four years. Even if you are not a sports fan, it is a fun event and a great way to strike up a conversation with the locals.

There may be, for example, a handsome young man you’ve spotted in a café, quietly working away at his laptop. Any other time of year, it would be awkward to approach him, but right now it is quite easy, and rather the done thing, to simply walk over and politely inquire about the latest match results.

International relations at the Ghana vs. USA game.

Of course your date for the evening may not necessarily appreciate this approach, and there are lots of ways for happy couples to get their footie on. To begin with, numerous cafés and even the local Häagen-Dazs have invested in large screens to woo customers who would otherwise sit transfixed in front of the television at home. Last week I spent an evening at O’Brien’s Irish Pub, where I had a fantastic evening with French, Irish and Americans who live in the neighborhood or wanted to catch a game while on holiday.

The most impressive place in Paris to share in this year’s international championship is the FIFA Fan Fest at the Trocadéro, where a ginormous screen broadcasts games to as many as 20,000 spectators, just below the Eiffel Tower. The view alone is worth the trip, but what really makes it fun is the crowd. Fans from across the globe are there to support their team, to take part in the action or simply to have a good time.

The FIFA souvenir boutique at the Trocadéro, where soccer fans can watch the World Cup matches on a giant screen.
Get your official FIFA souvenirs here!

The night I attended, the Ghanaians were out in force, vuvuzelas in hand, while the Americans had come equipped with lawn chairs. There were Algerians, Moroccans, Canadians and plenty of French. Some had arrived en famille, while others were with groups of friends and a few were even there on romantic dates. Soccer fans have a reputation for getting out of hand at times, so FIFA has put security at all the entrances, and the staff are very good at keeping out anybody who is likely to get too rowdy.

While there, you’ll find refreshments, souvenirs and even a SONY make.believe booth where you can discover 3-D television, soccer style. If you are there for the evening match, you will get a free show of the Eiffel Tower as it sparkles. You can’t beat that.

Editor's note: For sporting enthusiasts, why not try a tennis tour with Donna Morris of Best Friend in Paris, which includes some playing time.

You might also like:

My Foodie Hero: David Lebovitz

I am a crazed foodie, I’ll admit it. I obsess over whether to buy yet another fleur du sel or that perfect pink salt from Japan. I am a follower of real foodies with more qualifications than I, and I’m a voracious researcher of what and where to eat next.

Raspail Organic Market

It is a cold, rainy Sunday morning, but I don't mind. I never mind a cold Sunday morning in Paris, because the treats and the vendors at my local organic market are full of warmth. As I head out the door, I can almost smell the potato pancakes sizzling on the griddle chez Les Gustalins.