By Rachel Kaplan

Notre-Dame at sunset.

"I love Paris in the springtime/ I love Paris in the fall/ I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles/ I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles/ I love Paris every moment/ Every moment of the year/ I love Paris, why oh why do I love Paris/ Because my love is here."

When Ella Fitzgerald wrote the lyrics to this wonderful song, which was made equally famous by Nat King Cole and Frank Sinatra, she knew what she was talking about. Not only is Paris the most romantic city in the world, but it is the city that immortalized the loves of the world’s most famous couples, including Heloise and Abelard, George Sand and Frédéric Chopin, Arthur Rimbaud and Paul Verlaine, Aristotle Onassis and Maria Callas, Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky.

My favorite quartier remains the Marais, which boasts the largest number of listed historic mansions in all of France (more than 150), starting with the stunningly perfect Place des Vosges, where mansions of red brick and white tufa stone overlook one of the most charming squares in Paris. You may decide to amble over to the charming Victor Hugo Museum, where you can learn about the intriguing and productive life of the man who penned The Hunchback of Notre-Dame and Les Misérables.

Take time out to explore the upper Marais around the Musée Picasso (the museum itself is closed for renovation through 2012). Stroll along the rue Vieille-du-Temple, known for its cutting-edge galleries, fashion boutiques and charming café-restaurants. I also love rue Charlot, rue de Poitou and rue de Bretagne, with its nifty vintage stores, sexy clothing boutiques and atypical accessory designers.

My second-favorite part of Paris is the left bank, which includes the Sorbonne; the city’s second-oldest church, l’Eglise St.-Germain-des-Prés; and two of the world’s most famous literary cafés—Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore.

A guided tour of the area would take you to the haunts of Hemingway and the splendid 14th-century Museum of the Middle Ages (Musée de Cluny), which claims the only extant Gallo-Roman baths left in Paris. Be sure to admire the museum’s breathtakingly beautiful Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, which illustrate the five senses as well as the art of love.

No day in Paris is complete without a romantic walk at sunset in the left bank’s Luxembourg Gardens, which were originally conceived by the Italian queen Marie de Médicis. By now, with all the walking you have done, you are probably yearning for a delicious cup of tea and a treat. It is hard to resist the mouthwatering pastries in the window of master baker Gérard Mulot on the rue de Seine, or the jewel-like chocolates of Pierre Marcolini, on the same street.

If you prefer to save your calories for dinner, you have lots of choices on both the left and right bank. You could sit at Jack Nicholson’s table at Le Grand Colbert—the bistro that became famous through the movie Something’s Gotta Give, starring Diane Keaton.

Still, my favorite restaurant in Paris remains Christian Constant’s Le Violon d’Ingres, on the left bank; his gourmet menu is one of the best values in town.

If you have time, you might want to schedule a champagne or wine and cheese tasting. My favorite wine bar in Paris is Tim Johnston’s Juvénile’s; my favorite champagne bar is Dokhan’s.

And for those of you who want to take romance to another level, be sure to admire the jewel-filled windows on the Place Vendôme, opposite the celebrated Ritz Hotel. Even if you don’t buy a thing, just for a moment you will feel the romance of Paris all the more keenly, in all its dazzling facets of light.

INFO

Juvénile’s
47, rue de Richelieu, in the 1st.
01 42 97 90 73.

Rachel Kaplan is the author of six books, including Little-Known Museums in and around Paris (Harry N. Abrams) and Best Buys to French Chic: The Savvy Shopping Guide to Paris. She is also the president of French Links Tours and France Wedding Planner. 

By Sylvia Sabes

At at Mama Shelter, there's something for everyone.

Brunch is a strictly American concept, and because being Anglo-Saxon is quite cool in Paris these days, going to brunch has become THE thing to do.

The American restaurants are popular with the natives: Coffee Parisien, Thanksgiving and Breakfast in America cater to sellout crowds.

But there are local options that are more exotic for visitors used to brunch at home.

All is quaint and traditional at Francoeur.

For something light and simple and absolutely French, head to Café de Flore on the boulevard St.-Germain. Famous for its literary past, this café is still a major draw, and every Sunday the place is crowded with regulars, many of whom have not yet made it home from their Saturday evening escapes. It makes for excellent people watching as you enjoy a traditional Welsh rarebit or the Rykiel sandwich, named for the illustrious fashion queen. Eggs can be prepared just about any way you'd like.

Leave the tourists in the dust at Francoeur.

If you want something simple and French but without the tourists, Francoeur, in the 18th Arrondissement, is worth the trip. The neighborhood is bobo chic, with pouty parisiennes and their suffering mates, small dogs and large sunglasses. The decor is perfect for a quaint moment at the foot of Montmartre. As for the menu, it was at the printer's when we visited, but expect typically French offerings with pastries and juice and coffee. Or you can order from their lunch menu, which is all about meat.

Philippe Starck treats diners to a trendy ambience at Mama Shelter.

Trendsetters and fashionistas with kids are loving the extremely varied and laid-back brunch at Mama Shelter. The quality of the food here really is remarkable, with Spanish ham cut from the bone, fresh-squeezed citrus juices and glasses of house-made Nutella, jam or whipped cream. There was the best selection of vegetarian salads I've ever enjoyed in France. Indulge under a graffiti-scored ceiling and amuse yourself with a foosball table, lots of reading material and Tex Avery cartoons.

For a très français luxury experience among valet-served princes, aging rock stars and spoiled athletes, the Hôtel de Crillon is the place to be. You are greeted by name at the door of the historic ballroom, you and your handbag are immediately seated (a chair for you, a stool for the bag) and the buffet spread is supervised by a Michelin-starred chef. The day we went, champagne was flowing freely. A meal fit for a king. 

INFO

Café Francoeur
129, rue Caulaincourt, in the 18th. 01 53 28 10 63.

Coffee Parisien
4, rue Princesse, in the 6th. 01 43 54 18 18.

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By Robin Locker

The Paris café is an institution. No trip to the City of Light would be complete without visiting at least one. Most cafés keep continuous hours, making them a perfect spot for a full meal, an afternoon coffee or an aperitif. Rows of snugly placed tables and chairs sit facing the street as if beckoning passersby to an upcoming performance of Parisian street theatre. Locals have their favorite neighborhood haunts—each one offering a different vibe. Why not experiment and find yours? Start with these tried-and-true options, many of which have been an important part of Parisian culture for upwards of a hundred years.

La Closerie des Lilas

La Closerie des Lilas, located in Montparnasse, is named for its beautiful enclosed lilac garden. In fact, the café (which opened in 1847) claims to have established the reputation of Montparnasse because of its proximity to one of the most famous balls of its time, the Bullier Ball. In the early 20th century, literary giants such as Hemingway, Miller and Apollinaire and artists including Cézanne and Picasso mingled with the bourgeoisie. Over the years Tuesdays became known as the day when poets, artists and great thinkers of all nationalities would gather for readings and discussions of some of the most exciting theories of their time. Those looking to follow in the footsteps of Hemingway, who lived in a nearby flat, can grab a stool at the polished mahogany bar, where a brass plaque engraved with his name marks his favorite spot. In the nicer weather, pull up a chair on the secluded terrace, where Hem himself wrote undisturbed for hours. There are two distinct sides to La Closerie. The less expensive brasserie, with its dark, smokey atmosphere, dim lighting and leather banquettes, gives off an understated vibe of luxury, enlivened by the chatty crowd, clinking glasses and the piano bar, where you can hear jazz nightly after 7 p.m. Classics like steak tartare, eggs with mayonnaise and terrines grace the menu. The more upscale restaurant consists of bright crimson seating, crisp white linens and formal waitstaff. Here you'll find lobster, Filet de Boeuf Hemingway (made with bourbon!) and classic desserts like crêpes suzette and baba au rhum.

Café de Flore

Another landmark café, the chic Café de Flore, has been a fixture on the busy boulevard St.-Germain since it opened in the late 1800s. The classically dressed waiters don black vests and pants, white shirts and long white aprons. The smoky ambience of the Flore, with its art deco interior—including period lighting, mirrors, mahogany and red banquettes—hasn't changed much over the years. This upscale café is always bustling with a mix of young couples, well-dressed ladies, prosperous-looking businessmen and tourists. The sunny terrace is a popular spot for dining on a simple omelette and glass of champagne while watching the museum of life in Paris go by. Have your own story to tell? Head upstairs to the quiet second-floor dining room, where literary greats once spent hours writing.

Les Deux Magots

Flore's rival, located right around the corner, is the equally famous Les Deux Magots. The café began as a drapery store and turned into a wine merchant before becoming a café in 1914. Though it had a later start than its counterpart, Deux Magots quickly attracted the same literary clientele, including Apollinaire, Hemingway and André Gide. Every year since 1933, the café has awarded a literary prize called the Deux Magots to contemporary authors of offbeat works. The inside is brightly lit and the decor understated, with creamy walls, cognac-colored banquettes and burgundy velvet drapes. Half of the wraparound terrace overlooks the aptly named Place Sartre-Beauvoir—who were also regulars—and offers lovely views of the square and church of St.-Germain-des-Prés. You can catch a glimpse of the café in the 1995 remake of Sabrina.

Bouillon Chartier

Though it's more brasserie than café, Chartier deserves a spot on any eatery list. Now a historic monument, Chartier began in 1896 as a place to serve the working class a simple hot dish of boiled meat and vegetables (called a bouillon) for a very low price—think soup kitchen, not Michelin stars. Though the clientele has diversified and the menu has broadened (as have the lines—reservations are not accepted), this Montmartre brasserie stays true to its roots with prices that are still a bargain. If you are adventurous and looking to try traditional dishes like sweetbreads, lambs' brains, tongue or tripe, you've come to the right place. Safer options like coq au vin and Boeuf Bourguignon are also on offer. The interior looks like a typical brasserie: think lots of brass, tall mirrors, banquettes, art deco globe lighting, whimsical wall murals and glass ceilings. In keeping with the owner's desire to create a homey atmosphere, however, you won't find any crystal glasses, fancy silverware or white tablecloths. Instead it's pink tablecloths, paper menus and plain white plates with nary a logo. The owner has even retained the original wooden apothecary-like numbered drawers, where loyal customers were able to store their personal napkins.

La Palette

The appropriately named La Palette pays homage to the art community. Its proximity to the École des Beaux-Arts and its quirky, laid-back atmosphere made it a favorite among students as well as figures such as Picasso, Hemingway and even Jim Morrison. This café/bistro has been going strong for more than 100 years and hasn't changed much since then. The inviting and worn decor includes an eclectic mix of art, mirrors, dim lighting, mosaic-tiled floors, warm wood and a zinc bar, which hides a steep stairwell that leads to the storage cellar. There is even a framed artist's palette hanging over the bar. Make your way to the back room to see the stunning ceramic panels created by Salcedo. La Palette serves up good, simple French food at prices anyone can afford. Grab a coffee and baguette with butter and jam for breakfast or, during the day, a simple plat du jour or tartine (open-face sandwich). To experience the "real" Palette, spend time inside among the students and gallery owners. In the warmer months, claim a spot under the trees and among the trellised roses on the sidewalk terrace.

Café de la Paix

Café de la Paix, declared a historic landmark by the French government in 1975, is located near Opéra Garnier, in the 9th Arrondissement. Originally opened in 1862 to serve the Grand Hotel, Paix eventually attracted the likes of Emile Zola and Guy de Maupassant—even the prince of Wales. In 1948 the restaurant was the setting for a live radio show broadcast from France to the US, hosted by Maurice Chevalier. The decor is chic and retains its Second Empire grandeur—think lots of gilt, frescoes and touches of emerald green and burgundy. The menu is a mix of contemporary and classic gourmet cuisine, often adapted for seasonal ingredients. The café boasts two terrace options—a covered inside and an open-air outside—both offering views of the Opéra Garnier, which is magical in the late evening. Either terrace would be perfect for an aperitif before or after a show.

INFO

La Palette
43, rue de Seine, in the 6th. 01 43 26 68 15.

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By Cynthia Rose

Photo: Steve Sampson.

1. Don’t rush. Life in Paris is about making time, especially for people. Be prepared to slow down!

2. Don’t even think, “Everyone speaks English.” Whether they do or not, they are French. (What language do you speak at home?) The quality of your stay will depend directly on what French you attempt and—more important—on knowing some basic French manners.

The Basics  When you enter a shop, a room—even a building foyer or elevator—acknowledge whomever you see. Say "Bonjour, Madame" or "Bonjour, Monsieur" (never just "Bonjour," and never combine the greetings as "Bonjour Madame, Monsieur"). By evening, say "Bonsoir, Madame (Monsieur)." As you leave a shop, say "Merci" or "Au revoir." Elsewhere say "Bonne journée" (Have a good day) and, at night, "Bonne soirée" (Have a good evening). Around the holidays, add a "Bonnes fêtes à vous." Also: don’t smile all the time. Say "Pardon" when you disturb anyone and "S’il vous plaît" before asking anything. You can easily practice pronunciation in advance.

3. Don’t overschedule. Leave time for discoveries. Book in advance for big museum shows (or movies), especially those that just opened. The same is true of blockbusters in their final days (derniers jours). Otherwise, you may queue for hours.

4. Don’t fail to dress neatly. Parisians assume everyone wants to be dressed well. No big white sneakers (no matter what you read), no jogging pants, no short shorts.

5. Don’t fall for the “surly French waiter” stereotype. Paris has all kinds of staff. The solution to perceived service problems is 1) remain polite, 2) remain patient and 3) never tell anyone he or she is “wrong.” (This is considered an act of incredible rudeness.) In fact, those who receive your apology—if you tell them that you misheard or that you were wrong*—may become transformed; they must demonstrate that they can be equally polite. Remember, French battles are rarely won by Anglo-Saxon tactics.

6. Don’t expect “convenience.” Paris has its own rhythms. Most museums close Mondays or Tuesdays; almost everything (except museums and movies) shuts down completely on Sundays and on holidays.

7. Don’t pack clothes that need constant dry cleaning. A “pressing” is often slow and expensive. Also, leave synthetics at home during the warm months. Paris is humid, so natural fibers are far more comfortable.

8. Don’t carry a wet umbrella, however small, around any store. If there is no stand by the door, a salesperson can tell you where to place it. Stores such as Le Bon Marché offer plastic slip-on covers at entrances.

Photo: Steve Sampson.

9. Don’t look for bargain rates on French makeup or luxury labels. When you buy these in Paris, you also pay for the real estate. Especially if you normally buy online, prices will shock you.

10. Don’t expect closet space. That is, unless you’re in a fancy hotel or a rented flat renovated by foreigners. Pack flexibly.

11. Don’t throw away metro or RER tickets before your journey ends. Inspectors sometimes spot-check and you could be fined.

12. Don’t worry! Making a small effort to experience Paris as Parisians do should add depth, richness and warmth to your visit—as well as ensure you will want to return. It’s painless and easily done, so just go for it!

* Even expats fluent in French often balk at this point. But in Paris politeness is nonnegotiable, and sometimes there’s no better weapon than "Pardonnez-moi, j'avais tort" (Excuse me, I was wrong).

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By Doni Belau

Discussed today on Martha Stewart’s Morning Living radio show.

La Mosquée de Paris.

1. Try a hammam. Hammams are Turkish spas, and they are very popular in Paris. For a true multicultural experience, visit the historic Mosquée de Paris, open on certain days for women only (for details, see the complete Girls’ Guide listing). After your steam and scrub, enjoy mint tea and couscous in a gorgeous authentic mosque from the 1920s. For a more modern experience with great massages, I like Les Bains du Marais.

A little painting on the wall of Hotel Chateaubriand’s room No. 2.

2. Stay at a secret hotel. On a recent trip to Paris I found several amazing hotels through Exclusive Hotels, a service I’d recommend to any discerning traveler. Hotel Chateaubriand is a secret hideaway in the 8th Arrondissement, just steps from the Champs-Élysées. Tastefully decorated with antiques and luxurious fabrics, this hotel bears the unique stamp of its doting owner, Romain Rio. In each room you’ll find a tiny painting of a Louis XIV scene, tucked away discreetly somewhere on the silk-covered walls. Absolutely adorable! Other hotels I loved were Hotel Gabriel, the well-known Pershing Hall and Hotel Keppler. For more, visit Exclusive Hotels.

3. Indulge at the Dior spa. Experience the truly spectacular Dior Spa at the Plaza Athénée, with its Greco-Roman feel, über-cool lounge and larger-than-life screen playing Dior’s greatest fashion shows. Try the double massage room for a mother-daughter or couples massage.

Duck confit at Le Cantine de Quentin.

4. Make Paris your foodie heaven. Paris is experiencing a revolution in its restaurant sector. The city’s best chefs are tossing off their Michelin stars to serve what they want in restaurants that are much more casual, more affordable and less fussy. Some of our favorites:

Le Chateaubriand serves just one set menu (with adjustments for allergies and veggies) and delivers some of the most interesting food in the capital. Plus, the waiters are terribly cute!

Le Passage is Alain Senderens’ second restaurant and bar, though it remains a bit of a secret—you have to ring a buzzer to get in. On a recent visit, the decor was modern (gold and silver) and the atmosphere relaxed. The food at Le Passage is divine, and much more moderately priced than at sibling resto Senderens. The lobster ravioli here is a masterpiece.

Le Cantine de Quentin is a casual wine bar, wine shop and eatery in the 10th, near the très kool Canal St. Martin area. This place serves a reasonably priced lunch—and only lunch. Come for the classic duck confit and the charming artsy atmosphere. It’s the perfect stop after a morning spent shopping at the stores and art-book shops in the ’hood.

5. Shop, shop, shop. Shopping in Paris is a delight for the senses. There are many areas to hit, but my favorite is the Marais. In the upper Marais you can find one-of-a-kind designer shops too numerous to mention here. But you can explore them all on our Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille downloadable tour, which is chock-full of more than 60 stores, shops and ateliers. I am a big fan of the concept store Merci, where you can spend nearly the entire day. Other stores I frequent include Zadig et Voltaire, Paul and Joe, Isabel Marant, Autour du Monde and Le Bon Marché (of course!). For contact info for all, check out the roundup we did for our friends at Bonjour Paris.

6. Hit the sales. If you prefer to be smart and shop the incredible sales that occur each year in January (for fall/winter merchandise) and June–July (spring/summer), join us on our next Shop, Spa and Savor tour, this summer from June 26 to July 2.

Vespa tour with Left Bank Scooters.

7. Take an unusual tour. If the idea of a traditional tour guide and tour bus makes you sick, then try these one-of-a-kind outings. City Segway Tours is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser for all ages, and a great way to see the main sights for first timers and veterans alike. After you learn how to use the Segway, you’ll ride around feeling quite young again, cruising at about 15 mph. You’ll see all the sights of central Paris, from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre. You won’t want to give the thing back—I promise! If speed is more your style, I recommend the Vespa tour. Riding up the Champs-Élysées and around the Arc de Triomphe on a Vespa is NOT an everyday experience. Matt at Left Bank Scooters can teach anyone to ride these babies, and it’s a wonderful way to experience the city in true Parisian style. He also leads a trip out to Versailles!

Hôtel Recamier.

8. Stay on Place St. Sulpice. A very special new hotel (opened last year) that no one has written about in the US is the Hôtel Recamier, overlooking the famous St. Sulpice church. Decorated in a very posh style, this hideaway is the ideal spot for a romantic getaway or a girls’ trip. The place is run by veteran hotelier Sylvie de Lattre, who also owns the very successful Hôtel Thérèse and Hôtel Verneuil. I simply adore the busts of Madame Recamier on each floor, which pay homage to different artists—Christo being my favorite.

© Alexandre Guirkinger. Yves Saint Laurent's "Trapeze" dress,
from the spring 1958 Dior collection.

9. Visit the big museum shows. There are always blockbuster art shows going on in Paris, but this spring the city is teeming with beauty everywhere you look. Do not miss the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais, which presents Monsieur Laurent as truly the last great couturier. Also check out Lucian Freud at the Centre Pompidou and Edvard Munch at the Pinacothèque de Paris.

Chocolate eggs from Patrick Roger.

10. Be decadent! Buy shoes and chocolate. If all else fails, buy shoes and chocolate. Stroll down the best shoe-shopping street in the world, rue de Grenelle and buy something sexy for yourself, then pop over to Patrick Roger, the king of chocolatiers, on rue St.-Germain. Treat yourself and others to gifts wrapped up in his signature turquoise boxes. The Easter treats are nothing short of amazing, including a very real-looking fried egg made of chocolate—a humorous twist on the traditional. Oh la la!

Happy Travels!

By Cynthia Rose

Hermès. Photo: Steve Sampson.

In Paris, luxury fashion has always leaned on the arts. But this partnership was really forged after World War I, at the moment style changed because of jazz, fast cars and flapper fashions. Then it was Coco Chanel who truly seized the impulse for change. Amid the art boom, she started actively bankrolling artists—a gamble that helped her business gain a global profile.

Having used "functional" fabrics to create a revolution, “Mademoiselle” emerged from the war rich indeed. By 1920, she was supporting not just individuals (such as Jean Cocteau), but also funding ballet, concerts and theatre. If stage sets were by Picasso, Chanel would do the costumes, another strategy that kept her name on everyone’s lips.

Gaultier. Courtesy Fondation Cartier.

These days, through everything from the Internet to gallery spaces, French luxury brands are reviving her approach. The first modern Chanel was actually Agnès Troublé, better known as Agnès B. Troublé has been backing filmmakers since the 1980s (the bunnies in her Christmas windows were put there by Jonas Mekas). Since the mid-1990s, she has also run Galerie du Jour Agnès B. Currently the space is showing “Bonjour Monsieur Boltanski!”—a lively homage to the star of this year’s Monumenta that features 11 artists who work in different mediums.

The newly relaunched website Nowness takes Troublé’s formula literally: it offers an art creation du jour—every day—online. Formerly the “e-luxury” site for Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Nowness is the latest of the many ways LVMH links its products to art. Atop their Champs-Élysées store, for example, you can visit l’Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton. There’s both a great view and a fabulous expo on Chile. When you go, however, don’t miss the elevator; it’s a “spatial installation” by art star Olafur Eliasson.

From "Animal," on view at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs through November 30, 2011.
Photo: Jean Tholance, Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Rival house Hermès has its own art body, the epically wealthy Fondation d’Entreprise Hermès. It sponsors everything from artists, shows and renovations to research, talks and theatre. The Fondation is behind the massive new presentation Animal at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs—featuring more than 400 objects in a totally redesigned gallery, all exploring how artists have used animal imagery to create fashion, jewelry, textiles and toys.

Luxury jewelers Cartier are veteran art sponsors. In 1984 they opened the stunning Fondation Cartier to present artists from around the world. Offered a retrospective there in 2004, Jean Paul Gaultier instead gave them Pain Couture—a French costume fantasy created entirely with bread. This spring Cartier is showing "Gosse de Peintre" (Kid Painter), which features videos, paintings and toys by art celeb Takeshi Kitano. This expo also includes specially made Venetian vases—the kind of classy touch big brands can offer.

Fondation Cartier. Photo: Steve Sampson.

When a fancy label connects you with cutting-edge art, it seems both more modern and more accessible. It also reminds you that, as Chanel always insisted, “Fashion is in the sky and in the street . . . Fashion has to do with the way we live and what is happening.”

INFO

Bonjour Monsieur Boltanski! at Galerie du Jour Agnès B through April 3.

Chile behind the Scenes, at l’Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton through May 9.

Gosse de Peintre/Kid Painter, at Fondation Cartier through September 12.

Animal, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs through November 30, 2011.

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By Amy Thomas

Another year, another declaration of polishing your style? Even though we are into March, it’s not too late to take the first step. Here are five chic ways to begin your 2010 French fashion overhaul.

Leather leggings

Second skin: Leather leggings from IRO.

Remember years ago when cargo pants were huge? Then denim fever took over. In 2010, get ready for leather—leather leggings. Seen on Balmain’s runway (which also ignited this year's craze for military jackets, leopard print and shoulder pads), leather leggings scream hot, fabulous and French. Too shy to coat your legs in leather? Opt for a leather mini, leather hot pants or just a good old leather jacket—leather is oh-la-la à la mode this year.

Seen on the runways of: Balmain, Barbara Bui, Alexander Wang, Hussein Chalayan

Get yours: IRO, Gerard Darel

Harem pants

Loose hips: Harem pants from Maje.

If the second-skin leggings aren’t for you, go to the other extreme: bag out in harem pants. Fitted from the knees down, but potato-sack-loose around the butt and thighs, they're perfect for looking chic but feeling totally comfortable—especially when done in jersey or silk. To balance the puffy silhouette, pair them with a slim-fitting top and/or a cropped jacket.

Seen on the runways of: Temperley London, Yigal Azrouël, LAMB, Ports 1961

Get yours: IRO, H&M, Maje, Isabel Marant

Drapey jumpsuits

Suit up this spring at Antik Batik.

Break out your one-pieces, ladies—jumpsuits, that is. Loose, billowy jumpsuits—in both solids and prints—promise to breathe a sigh of romance into your spring wardrobe. Belt them at the waist, wear them with boyfriend jackets (yup, hold onto those), do them for black tie, or just let them flow.

Seen on the runways of: Roberto Cavalli, Etro, Stella McCartney, Lanvin

Get yours: Antik Batik

Big, bold patterns

Going boldly: Lively prints at Vanessa Bruno.

Feminine florals will hang on for a while, but the fashion-forward are moving on to loud prints. Tribal, graphic, black and white, multicolor—there are no rules, especially when it comes to mixing prints on top and bottom. Not recommended for wallflowers.

Seen on the runways of: Etro, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Versace, Miu Miu

Get yours: Isabel Marant, Antik Batik, Paule Ka

Short shorts

Short circuit: Maje.

Like, how-short-will-you-go short. Even now, in winter’s cold grasp, the girls are wearing shorts with tights and booties. And come spring and summer, the tights will be banished and French women will flaunt their genetically perfect legs.

Seen on the runways of: Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Louis Vuitton

Get yours: IRO, Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno

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By Cynthia Rose

© Alexandre Guirkinger. Saint Laurent's "Trapeze" dress, from
the spring 1958 Dior collection. The year before, at age 21, Saint
Laurent took over the couture house after Dior's death.

There has been no other fashion talent like Yves Saint Laurent—yet, although he died only two years ago, most young people equate his name with a label on lipsticks and sunglasses. When “YSL” retired from fashion in 2002, however, he boldly stated, “I am the last couturier.” His epic new retrospective at the Petit Palais makes a pretty convincing case that he was correct.

On one level, it is a joyful, theatrical homage that includes audio, video, sketches and photographs. It starts you off chez Dior in 1958, just as Saint Laurent debuts his famous "Trapeze" dress—a bouffant cocktail confection shimmering in red, ivory and black. Concept after concept follows: his signature "Le Smoking" (the “woman’s tuxedo”); Saharan safari suits; sailor-suit chic; collections inspired by paintings, by the Ballets Russes, by India, by Russia, by opera.

© Pierre Boulat. Saint Laurent working in his studio.

All are displayed to highlight their immortality. Gender-bending pantsuits alight on formal gilt chairs; those sleek frocks inspired by Mondrian and Braque become art themselves, posed against the backdrop of gallery-like white walls. As you peek into muse Catherine Deneuve’s closet or gawk at Saint Laurent’s reassembled office, it seems undeniable that this is fashion history writ in capital letters.

© Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent.
The first tuxedo for women ("Le Smoking"),
designed by Saint Laurent in autumn 1966.

The spark that lit the eternal flame ignited in 1971, the year Saint Laurent was photographed nude (for a perfume ad) and the year of his famous Scandale collection. With tarty models in turbans, platform shoes and loud, short furs, it evoked both streetwalkers from the Bois de Boulogne and collaboration horizontale, or sexual relations with Nazi soldiers, during the Occupation. There was a hugely hostile reaction (comments and reviews appear blown up on the wall behind). Yet the collection proved Saint Laurent could take fashion wherever he wanted. He was unashamedly gay, the show was unabashedly camp and its retro impulse made fashion admit things had changed. Chanel had just died—after naming Yves her “heir”—and new names were transforming the arts. Picasso, Dalí and Cocteau were still alive, but the arts were now fixated on Warhol, David Hockney and Visconti.

© Alexandre Guirkinger. From the spring 1971 Saint Laurent collection,
which became known the Scandale collection.

YSL seized that moment to resculpt style, creating his legendary Saint Laurent shoulder. Coco Chanel had lifted and tightened the armhole of jerseys and jackets to create a long, clean line—but Saint Laurent went dramatically wider and sharper. As his life and business partner, Pierre Bergé, puts it, “Yves gave women power by slipping menswear onto their shoulders.”

From Proustian nostalgia to the vibrancy of his native North Africa, Saint Laurent burned through, and then returned to, inspirations. All are here, including a staircase crowded with wonderful bourgeois ball gowns. But everything is framed to support a central thesis—that YSL was more than a genius; he was in fact the total embodiment of haute couture. He was that supreme artist for whom all others had paved the way.

© Alexandre Guirkinger. A homage to painter Piet Mondrian
from the autumn 1965 Yves Saint Laurent collection.

One can certainly argue with this thesis (orchestrated, like YSL’s entire career, by the ever-resourceful Bergé). Nevertheless, Saint Laurent’s deep links with the Parisian soul support it. For Parisians, taste and discernment are fundamental to life itself. Even at his most daring, YSL paid homage to that—and the man one meets here is the perfect, the consummate Parisian.

The retrospective at the Petit Palais runs through August 29; booking ahead is essential (booking is also possible through FNAC).

Want more YSL?

In March 2004, the Saint Laurent maison reopened as the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, which houses 5,000 pieces, 15,000 accessories and 150,000 sketches by YSL and hosts public exhibitions. Until May 9, the Fondation is showing The Last Maharajas: splendid costumes from the courts of India in the last days of the Raj.

The film Yves Saint Laurent–Pierre Bergé, l’Amour Fou, by Pierre Thoretton, opens September 29 in Parisian cinemas.

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By Suzy Gershman

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kristin-and-adam/ / CC BY-NC 2.0

I have the most beautiful breasts in Paris.

This is not just a silly comment or a personal opinion. It is a medical fact. I know it to be true because recently my French radiologist said these words to me.

He probably says them to 100 women a day, six days a week, but hey—at my age, we take what we can get.

I do most of my medical checkups in Paris. I lived there for seven years and I love my team of medical experts. Some of them speak English; some do not. While I have nothing against American doctors (there are seven of them in my family), I get a sense of personal caring with my team. I guess this is the sense that comes in established relationships.

I used to have my mammogram each March, on the anniversary of my mother’s death. She died of breast cancer when she was 52. They were always formalities and celebrations of her memory . . . until they weren’t. One March a few years ago, the doctor asked me to step into his office.

We all know what that means.

Although the conversation was in French (and I am not fluent), the word "tumor" is the word "tumor," and I quickly understood that I had three tumors: bilateral. I was to return in two days for the needle biopsy.

I say with pride that I did not totally freak out. I was also extremely grateful for the French system and the fact that everything could be done so quickly. I was told to expect the results immediately after the "punctures." How many women do we know who have had to wait for weeks in the nowhere land of not-knowing? I praised French medicine and made my survival plan.

When the cytologist walked into the room, I explained to him that I was American and a very direct person. I said I was at peace with whatever the results were and that I planned to have a double mastectomy and enormous implants.

“How American,” he said with a delighted sneer.

The punctures weren’t a lot of fun, but the wait for results was short. The doctor stood in the doorway of the surgical suite and said, “Madame Gershman, I have some bad news for you.”

I gripped the table, ready to take it like a man.

“You don’t get those implants after all!”

And so began my regular trips to Paris twice a year to be felt up by an adorable middle-aged doctor. After two years, I dropped down to once a year—January so I can also shop the sales.

My brother, an oncologist, has suggested that it is important to have the same team follow you and read the film, because so much of the trick is in the reading. This means, of course, that I am forced to go to Paris to the cute radiologist on the rue du Bac on a regular basis. Gee, poor me.

Suzy Gershman with her dog Junior Mint.

Suzy Gershman is the author of the Born to Shop series of travel guides, available on Amazon. According to her January checkup, her tumors have not changed and are considered benign, and her breasts are quite beautiful. Read her blog, Born to Shop Lady.

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By Sylvia Sabes

The French are well known for their commitment to accessories and their devotion to the scarf. Yes, it is about fashion, but it is considered a health issue as well. My concierge yells about me daily because the 12-year-old refuses to wear a scarf, and the Frenchman recently advised me to wear a scarf to bed because I had a bad cold and didn't want it to get worse. And it is true, after wearing a scarf daily, one feels naked without one. Naked and drafty. Which is a convenient problem for me because I happen to have something of an addiction.

By scarf, let me be clear that I am not referring to that little silk square famous across the globe. That is a lovely accessory, to be sure. But it is something to complete one's outfit, not to keep one warm. And it is so loaded with status signals and social meaning that very few of my peers ever take theirs out of the closet, although I am sure that every single one of them has at least one petit carré in her possession, if not three. If you're looking for some inspiration, Hermès has plenty on their website.

Now back to me. Since moving here I've learned countless ways to wear a scarf. Here are four of them, with photos of my favorites to help you find your way.

The Express  This is the favorite of businessmen, students and assorted individuals who have too many other things on their minds and in their hands to worry about something as banal as a scarf. Fold your scarf in half, holding the loop end in your left hand and the two loose ends in your right. Slip the scarf over your head and thread the ends through the loop.

The Basic  The Basic is the most common style to be found on Parisian streets. It consists of keeping the scarf short at one end, and then wrapping it behind the neck, around the front and back behind until there are two ends dangling in the front. Some people stop there, but having two loose ends separated like that is not always the best option when running around, taking public transportation and risking an end getting stuck in the metro doors as they close. Which explains the variation. Take the two ends and tie them over all but the very first loop.

The Wrap  This is a method used only in the coldest temperatures at the darkest time of year. You take a warm bulky scarf and tuck one end into your coat, wrapping the remaining end around the neck as many times as possible, hopefully going all the way to the chin.

The Italian Twist  This is the last and most complicated of the wraps. With the scarf behind your neck, take one end in your right hand, holding it at the breast. With your left hand, loosely loop the scarf in front, then behind you. This will form a U shape over the right end that is being held firmly. Take the left end of the scarf and thread it over the first branch of the loop but under the bit you are holding, and then back over the last branch of the loop.

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By Amy Barnard

It’s not only the weather in Paris that’s taken cues from Eastern Europe at the moment—dance circles are abuzz over the centenary of legendary Russian choreographer and dancer Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes (Russian Ballet). The company debuted in Paris in 1910 amid a frenzy of press. Later ballets such as 1917's Scheherazade made him and costar Vaslav Nijinsky celebrities. The performances were so inventive for their time, and so different from French ballet; they captured the public’s imagination with timeless and spicy tales of love, jealousy, betrayal and general skulduggery.

Several Parisian institutions are paying homage this season. Now, I’m mad about dance but generally not a ballet fan. Dying swans bore me and I find myself wishing they’d hurry up and get on with it. I make an exception for the Ballets Russes, however, since they’re so vibrant and engaging.

The Opéra Garnier is holding an exhibition devoted to the Ballets Russes, including models of sets and costumes, through May 23. I thought I'd focus on this one, since there's a certain cachet to seeing the objects under the roof of the house where many of the ballets were performed. The exhibition is heavy on illustrations, and with good reason—there are costume designs by Matisse and Picasso! It’s interesting to see the shift in style displayed in the collection, from the first performances in the early 1900s through the late 1920s, from Art Nouveau to the beginnings of Cubism, which the company helped promote.

Look out for a telegram discussing artistic changes to be made to a performance, as well as Stravinsky’s notebook, with rough drafts of various scores for the ballets. Also notable are the photos of Nijinsky, for the way he has been captured inhabiting the roles of the faun and Krishna.

And, of course, there are the original costumes for Scheherazade, designed by Leon Bakst, the ones that almost single-handedly sparked the craze for orientalism in fashion and interior design—a trend that continued through the 1920s and inspired the designer Paul Poiret and many others. To see these costumes is to encounter an important piece of fashion history.

As with many museum shows in Paris, there’s no English information, but the individual tags contain the important names and dates, which are very hard to lose in translation.

Bonus: the Centre National de la Danse is also hosting an exhibition and a program of events devoted to the Ballets Russes, through April 10.

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By Sylvia Sabes

A happy dad—just don't ask his name!

“Hello,” I said with a bright smile. “I am M's mom. She is so thrilled your daughter invited her to the birthday party. She'll be very happy to join you. Oh, my name is Sylvia.” I rattled this off to the other mother in my nearly fluent French, my hand out, ready to shake.

“Oh, very well” was the rather dry response. The rejection hit me like a cold shower. Whatever had I done to offend this woman that she wouldn't even tell me her name? Our daughters were seven, went to school together and spent most of their afternoons at the playground with each other. The mom had a full-time job, so our paths rarely crossed. I could not for the life of me figure out what I had done wrong.

Such was my introduction to French society. This mother was an extreme example of traditional French manners, so extreme that she eventually pulled her daughter out of public school because it was just a bit too much for her. But the story stuck with me and taught me a very valuable lesson about French culture. Names here are a valuable commodity and not easily shared.

Understanding this helped me feel less ostracized from the neighborhood. When I met other moms at the park, and other parents who joined our coffee circle every morning at the café, I no longer took it as a snub if we did not exchange names. Eliminating the “Hi, my name is Sylvia” introduction put them at ease and let them know I was one of them. Eventually I'd learn their names. Or not.

When you ask for someone's name in French, you are actually asking for her last name. It is impossible for someone to think you are becoming too chummy. But if you've ever asked the name of a customer service agent in France, you know it is important information that is usually withheld. Even your doctor's secretary is unlikely to share her name.

I didn't understand why this was such an important part of the local culture until I met M. Parmentier. That's right—you probably know a dish named after his family. And a metro station. After our daughters had been friends and classmates for several years, he finally felt compelled to introduce himself. “Parmentier?” I queried. “As in the guy who convinced the French to eat potatoes?” I thought I was being clever and showing that I was not some hayseed Yankee. But I was quickly treated to a lesson in French military history. He explained that, actually, Parmentier had pioneered a system for extracting sugar from beets—which helped Napoleon win a war or two—and it was very frustrating for the family that everyone linked them to the lowly potato when their ancestor had really contributed so much more.

And then I got it. In France, when you give your name, you are often giving much, much more. You are revealing a piece of your family history. Mme Leroy . . . one of her husband's ancestors probably won an archery tournament in the Middle Ages, allowing his family to use the king's name for a year. Mme Leon . . . her family was from Leon, Spain, and was likely chased out during the Inquisition; they probably spent a century or two in Turkey before making it to France. That is a lot to know about someone you've just met. Which is why the French hold their names close to their chests. Oh, and Madame from the playground? I eventually learned that she has a princely name, probably worth guarding . . . de Saint-Exupéry.

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By Doni Belau

Photo: Bonne Nuit Paris.

Last summer I tried out the concept of staying at a bed-and-breakfast in Paris. I found the experience a bit odd. I researched and secured a lovely apartment, beautifully decorated and around the corner from the Musée Picasso in the Marais, which is a perfect location. The proprietor was a very charming gay guy who had to move out in order to move me in. The whole apartment still smelled of his cologne. It seemed I was staying in his only bedroom. Maybe it was a way of making a few bucks (he moved across the street to his boyfriend’s house), but it seemed a bit unsettling to me. He was perfectly nice and brought me excellent croissants each morning, but the experience was not what I had expected. I had assumed (you know what they say about that) that I’d be staying in an extra bedroom. I’m not giving up, though—this is probably the cheapest way to stay in the city and has the potential to be a unique and charming experience that will allow you to really get to know a local. I recommend it for the adventurous and the friendly, not for those who feel privacy is paramount. Do ask a lot of questions before you book.

Here are a few other B and Bs I found that are worth sampling:

Paris Oasis, on rue André del Sarte, close to Sacré-Coeur, is 100–150 euros per night (depending on the room) for two. Prices are slightly more for more people, and there's a three-night minimum. It pays to have friends. This maison in the 18th Arrondissement (Montmartre) has an indoor pool and a lovely exterior garden. There are six bedrooms, some with kitchenettes, but no breakfast. Guess you’d call it a bed sans breakfast. Some rooms are better decorated than others, so be choosy.

La Villa Paris has been exquisitely designed in an art deco style, and the owner is very helpful. It might be interesting to discover this part of the 13th. We like the Concorde room.

Paris Chic Near the Champs in the 17th sits this lovely B and B for 140 euros a night for two. It's nicely decorated and situated in a Haussmann-style building, sporting a Jacuzzi tub with views of the rooftops of Paris. Your host is a musician.

B&B Folie Oberkampf is a cute guest apartment in the 11th (the owners have two other places for rent), run as a B and B starting at 85 euros per night. Now that’s a bargain—you’ll have your own apartment complete with a kitchen and living room. These owners like color, and you’ll have to walk up the stairs, but it’s the best deal in town short of a hostel.

Villa Clara is a luxurious B and B in the 9th for around 200 euros, but you’ll sleep in a mansion and receive a bottle of champagne. Not too shabby.

Nouvelle Athènes B and B is a great choice in the 9th, if you don’t mind climbing up to the fourth floor. The Chambre d’Hôtes St. Georges has been superbly decorated. Only 75 euros a night for two.

Commerce B and B in the 15th, from Meeting the French, is a sophisticated and charming place for only 169 euros for three, which works out to 56.33 euros per person. Now you can’t beat that price!

Bonne Nuit Paris will set you up in an ancient building in the Marais, on the wonderful rue Charlot. Rates for two start at 125 euros a night, with a breakfast of bread/croissants and homemade jam. Owned by a French man and an American woman; you’ll enjoy their hospitality.

Bateau Pytheas is a fun one—for 170 euros enjoy a weeknight stay on a boat in the 8th (360 euros for Friday and Saturday nights combined). Breakfast included.

Bateau Johanna is another boat, close to the Tuileries, with two rooms. Rate for two: 100 euros. Two-night minimum.

There are countless companies, so enjoy the search and let us know how you find B and B-ing in Paris.

BB Paris
Meeting the French
Fleurs de Soleil
Bed and Breakfast
GoodMorningParis

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By Sheila Campbell

The signs are posted all over Paris: a wide-angle photo of an enormous brown cow. The annual International Agriculture Salon—where France celebrates its culinary heritage—closes this Sunday, March 7.

Here’s what you need to know if you spend the day at the Ag Salon: Go hungry. Everywhere you turn, someone’s offering a taste of artisanal cheese, creamy yogurt, new flavors of ice cream, foie gras, honey, olive oil, sausage, bread, wine, beer—just about anything made in France.

Two of the five enormous pavilions at Porte de Versailles are devoted to eating. At the Régions de France pavilion, you can feast on oysters from Brittany, aligot (mashed potatoes with tomme cheese) from the Auvergne, foie gras from Périgord and snails and beef from Burgundy. There are also temporary restaurants, each featuring the specialties of an agricultural area. Before you know it, your shopping bag is heavy with treats to take home.

The Régions de France pavilion also includes Madagascar, Martinique, Guadeloupe and the other overseas areas considered part of France. Spices from Africa and the Caribbean scent the stalls, and Calypso music plays under the crowd noise. Another entire pavilion is devoted to foods from other countries: Japan, Korea, Switzerland, Italy, Germany and many more. Overall, there are 38 restaurants to choose from, plus hundreds of booths selling artisanal products to eat, wear, supply your kitchen or delight your dog back home.

Enticing as all the eating is, for me the highlight of the salon was Pavilion 1, where all day long you can watch competitions for the most perfect specimens of different cow breeds. You might have to step aside as a handler walks his bull through the aisles. The deep clang of cowbells echoes through the hall. We wandered through row after row of stalls to pet the cows, sheep and rabbits. (No touching allowed for the new litters of piglets suckling their moms, and signs warn you that the donkeys bite.)

Outside, between the pavilions, my friend Donna Morris of Best Friend in Paris climbed into a huge green tractor and took it for a spin.

At the end of the day, we left well-fed and smiling, with just the lightest whiff of manure on our boots.

INFO

Hours: 9 a.m.–7 p.m. (Friday, March 5, until 11 p.m.)

Admission: 12 euros.

Metro: Porte de Versailles.

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By Sylvia Sabes

Photo by Marc Montméat, Paris Photo Jeune Talent SFR 2009.

It is below zero on a Wednesday morning, and the line at the Grand Palais is an hour long for ticket holders. Those without tickets will be standing in the cold even longer. And yet they stand: university students with a morning off, retirees, mothers who work only four days a week, lovers cashing in an RTT (floating days off), all of them locals and all of them waiting patiently in line to view art. Who is the artist and what was the incredible show that drew so many? I can't recall, and it really doesn't matter, because this is pretty much the scene every time I've attended a show here. From Klimt to Picasso, from Warhol to Rodin, the French love their art—which means there are great shows to attend throughout the year.

Current (and upcoming) shows include Yves Saint Laurent at the Petit Palais, Lucian Freud at the Centre Pompidou, Turner at the Grand Palais, Basquiat at the Musée d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris, Doisneau at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson and photos of Versailles from 1850 to 2010 at the château itself.

If all this information seems rather rushed to you, you're right. That's because, in addition to these temporary events, there are several annual events that are worth the trip in their own right.

A sculpture at FIAC last fall.

Parcours des Mondes
Usually first week of September
This is one of the most important tribal arts shows in the world. Galleries specializing in tribal arts from across the globe borrow space from the St.-Germain-des-Prés galleries to exhibit pre-Columbian artifacts, Egyptian treasures and African sculptures. Much of the work is museum quality, and the people-watching is almost as fantastic as the art itself.

Biennale de Paris
Last weekend of September
Founded by André Malraux, this art and jewelry show attracts dealers from across the globe, with pieces hailing from ancient Rome and Persia, all the way up through contemporary art. The presence of some of the greatest jewelry houses in the world—Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston, Cartier—ensures some serious eye candy, and the participants spare no expense in decorating the jewel-box venue of the Grand Palais.

FIAC
October 21 to 24
This contemporary art show is so huge that it requires two venues: the inner courtyard of the Louvre and the Grand Palais. And if that's not enough for you, the local galleries put on their star collections, hoping to attract the roving eyes of the hordes of international art collectors who head into town the week after visiting Frieze, the London contemporary art fair.

Even the public restrooms go arty for Paris Photo. A display of toilet paper in one restroom.

Paris Photo 
November 18 to 21
This year Central Europe is the guest of honor at Paris's annual photography show, held at the Carrousel du Louvre; Paris Photo features works from artists such as Man Ray and Henri Cartier-Bresson alongside images from Africa, Asia and the Americas. The star of last year's show was Marc Montméat, the winner of the phone company SFR's Young Talent Award—he sold every photo available in just two days.

Editor's note: Parcours des Mondes is an open event, but all the rest (exhibitions and shows) require tickets. Because the whole art world comes to Paris for these events, advance tickets are recommended. If the concierge at your hotel cannot help you, book them yourself online at FNAC.

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