By Sylvia Sabes

 Fantastic accessories and only two colors—the secret recipe.

Chic. Even in English we use the French term. It is a stereotype, to be sure, but like the best stereotypes, this one comes with a large grain of truth behind it. French women are incredibly elegant. And it is not about expensive clothing or formalwear, either. Last year Birkenstocks were all the rage. Hippie shoes. How exactly do the women over here pull off that look and stay so alluring? What is their secret weapon? After decades of research and observation, I have noticed something of a pattern.

Le Look. It begins with perspective: how the parisienne sees herself and the world. She approaches life as if she were the most attractive, seductive woman around—flirting with the server at the café first thing in the morning, her boss in the afternoon and the butcher as she picks up a poulet roti on the way home from the office. What gives her that confidence? Training. Learn to keep a stiff upper lip, never let the cracks show and watch that posture, Madame! That, and wear some really sexy lingerie under even the most sedate outfits. Sounds odd, but wearing matching bras and panties gives one a secret confidence, because true fashion starts below the surface.

Know the code. In France, originality is not in. There is the odd genius, like Sonia Rykiel, who can get away with incredibly mad combinations, but for the most part there is a fairly simple style that most women follow. The style changes annually, but there is one rule that never changes: limit yourself to two colors, never more. This gives local women two advantages. First, if a certain look has already been “approved,” she knows she looks good and it boosts her confidence, helping her maintain Le Look. Second, the “approved” looks really do look good, limiting those awkward days when tops and bottoms are inadvertently mismatched and ensuring that one usually looks one's best.

Paris style: Less is more.

Less is more. This is especially true of makeup and jewelry. I once read a quote by Karl Lagerfeld's muse, Inès de la Fressange, declaring that true elegance dictates that you choose to either make up your eyes or your lips, never both. Parisiennes don't cover their faces in a solid foundation, piling colors on top. They keep it simple, covering a blemish or two, using a natural-hued lipstick, a touch of mascara and maybe a hint of eyeliner. You don't often see large, shimmering jewels. And because less is more, you choose either a necklace or earrings, never both. This rule also applies to designer clothing. The parisienne is at ease in a Chanel jacket with a pair of Levi's. One really good-quality garment is enough. If you must wear two, it is best to mix and match—respecting the two-color rule, naturally.

Keep it clean. Maintenance is an essential aspect of Le Look. If you were to take me and a parisienne, give us the same outfit and snap a photo, she'd look infinitely more alluring. One reason is Le Look, which means she has much better posture and carries herself well. But another would be her impeccably ironed T-shirt, cleaned to maintain its startling whiteness. And then there would be the perfectly shined shoes. While I would probably leave mine dull and lackluster, the posh parisienne has been raised in the cult of clean, and she would never think of heading out without giving her footwear a quick wipe. And this is only if I were lucky enough to receive the same shoes. Otherwise, I'd be in my incredibly comfortable rubber-soled clodhoppers, while she would be willing to brave the cobblestone streets in any one of a dozen pairs of CFMs she has stashed away in her closet.

If all this sounds exhausting, it is. Taking out that iron after a full day at the office. Ugh!!! And shining my shoes. Every day? Please! But the men do it, too, if that is any consolation. And the results are well worth the effort. Especially when a handsome man gives you his seat on the bus, or walks into one of the poles that line the sidewalk because he was too distracted by admiring you.

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By Sylvia Sabes

Artisanal goat cheeses marinate in an herb blend.

In France, this is not a photo op, but a very serious subject. And a confusing one. Even for the locals, which is why you'll find an entire section of cheese guides in Paris bookshops. When we first moved here, I was so curious and confused that I purchased the Guide des Fromages and spent the following year bonding with my local affineur (cheesemonger), Marie Quatrehomme. I was very fortunate to have Marie as a neighbor; she was the first woman in France to be named Meilleur Ouvrier de France, supplies many of the city's three-star restaurants, is passionate about her product and could not be friendlier. I later realized that she was also a major contributor to my guide.

The first thing I learned is that many cheeses are seasonal. Goat cheese, for example, is not a winter cheese. And I discovered the amazing vacherin, an exceptionally delicious, soft, oozing cheese that is preserved in spruce and eaten from the mold with a spoon, but made exclusively from August 15 to March 31.

Most of us know that cheeses are divided into three families: goat, cow and sheep's milk, but they are also divided by their texture and their rind. There are fresh cheeses that have not been aged at all, like feta and mascarpone; soft cheeses with a mold rind, like Brie and Camembert; soft cheeses with a washed rind, like Muenster and my beloved vacherin; firm cheeses that have been “cooked,” like Gruyère and Emmental; and those that have not, like Reblochon and the tommes; blue cheeses; and, finally, goat cheeses.

There are two cheese questions that plague visitors to France:

How do I slice the cheese? The idea is to keep an equal ratio of rind for all the guests, so if the cheese is round, you cut it like a pie. If it is a rectangle, try to cut evenly from the tip to the rind.

Do I eat the rind? The answer is vague and really depends on personal preference. If you like it, eat it; if not, leave it on your plate.

Which brings us to the cheese course itself. Occasionally, cheese is served with the hors d'oeuvres, two soirée favorites being Mimolette and Tête de Moine. There a few dishes, like fondue and raclette, that depend upon cheese, but in general it is part of the dessert course, coming just after the main dish, but before the sweets and often accompanied by a very simple salad. The cheese course may be limited to one exceptional cheese, like the mouthwatering Brie with truffles or the inspired blue with quince paste that I find at the Laurent Dubois shop. For a more elaborate offering, include no more than six cheeses and strike a balance between soft and firm cheeses, and strong and mild flavors, while keeping in mind the shapes and colors of each cheese as well. Confused? So are most of the French, which is why they head to specialty shops for expert guidance. Some “cheat” with great success by offering a platter of chevres, blues and English or Italian cheeses.

My ideal cheese plate includes a white, fluffy triangle of Brie; a firm, golden block of Ossau Iraty; an orange-blush round of Reblochon; a pungent, creamy Roquefort; a mellow St. Marcellin and a solid pyramid of the tangy Pouligny. I like mine served with a crisp Pouilly-Fuissé, but pairings are a guide apart.

INFO

Laurent Dubois
2, rue de Lourmel, in the 15th Arrondissement.

Marie Quatrehomme
62, rue de Sèvres, in the 7th.

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By Sylvia Sabes

Rykiel rests among the treasures at the Chercheminippes housewares boutique.

I can't help myself—every time I see the word “depot,” I think of trains and hillbillies and the 1950s TV show Petticoat Junction. It is something that happens fairly often while shopping in Paris, where the term “depot vente” means “consignment shop.” Consignment shopping is a popular option that is getting more and more popular as budgets tighten and people try to do the right thing by the environment. Which is great news for a girl who still wears the 1940s coat she bought at a depot vente when she was a starving student here in the 1980s. There are consignment shops throughout the city, but here are a few of my favorites.

Chercheminippes is actually one store that has taken over six addresses along the rue du Cherche-Midi. This is the only well-known depot vente to have a children's section, and it is a very good one, with much that is brand new. They also have a housewares shop where I once uncovered an antique Indonesian ikat that was selling for one-tenth its value. There are separate boutiques for menswear, accessories and women’s apparel.

A flotilla of red boutiques dominates the rue du Cherche-Midi.

Reciproque is another depot vente grown wild, with its own spread of six boutiques along the rue de la Pompe in the tony 16th Arrondissement. I am convinced that the owner, Nicole Morel, has created the best women's collection in town. I fell in love with a black crepe dress she once had on the wall. It was from the 1973 Yves Saint Laurent collection and made its way into my closet for $250. Upstairs there is a room for evening wear, semiformal wear and haute couture. Downstairs you will find designers, plus sizes and shoes. Her jewelry collection is first rate, probably because this is the favorite address of many of the city's mistresses who come to convert generous gifts into cash. Stylists also love to come here, offloading leftover goods from fashion shoots and sample sales. Accessories get their own boutique, with a large range of Hermès scarves and designer handbags on offer.

Maison de Fanfan is a postage stamp–size boutique that boasts big value. The Japanese owners have an in with many of the local Japanese saleswomen, who come here with brand-new treasures from their jobs with some of the haute couturiers, especially Louis Vuitton and Hermès. This is especially great if you want new shoes at consignment prices. The clothing sizes tend to run petite, for the Japanese clientele, but the shoes and accessories are one size fits all.

Another favorite address for new shoes is the Depot Vente du 17ème. I have a sneaking suspicion that many of the shoes worn on the catwalk make their way into this shop—they have a lot of options in very large sizes. And you can now go directly to their website and see what they have in the store, organized by brand name, price or size. Très pratique.

Chanel and Hermès stand shoulder to shoulder at Maison de Fanfan.

Last but not least, for the mother lode in Chanel and Hermès handbags, there is one destination that surpasses them all: Les 3 Marches de Catherine B. You are sure to find “the” little black quilted bag with a gold chain and double Cs, as well as dozens upon dozens of Kelly bags and Birkin bags, not to mention enough silk scarves to quilt a ship's main sail. To be honest, I once worried that these guys were selling counterfeit bags, but they have developed a partnership with LVMH and enjoy a large Internet presence, so you can be sure that whatever you purchase in this boutique is real.

And that, for me, is what consignment shopping is all about—keeping it real.

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By Robin Locker

Gregory Bastien via Flickr.

Hordes of tourists flock to Paris in the spring and fall. I certainly can't fault them—it's a beautiful time of year. Flat-topped plane and chestnut trees are still holding their leaves, gardens are in full bloom and red geraniums just spill over apartment balconies. Paris winters are gray and bone chilling, but airfare and hotel deals can make an otherwise expensive trip affordable. And I can't think of anything more romantic than the City of Light's cobblestone streets covered in a thin blanket of fluffy white snow.

So dress in layers, button up your coat, don your hat and scarf and brave the less-than-perfect weather while enjoying these must-do winter activities.

The Champs-Elysées at night. J.Y. Romanetti via Flickr.

Take an evening walk on the Champs-Elysées  This well-known boulevard, which begins at the Arc de Triomphe, boasts expensive cafés, restaurants and glorious boutiques and is a fashionable place for a stroll any time of year. But from late November through early January, as night falls, the wide avenue glows with a spectacular sparkle as far as the eye can see. The barren trees lining the boulevard are adorned with blue and white lights that resemble icicles dripping from the branches. The result is a magical sight that shouldn't be missed.

Take advantage of the soldes  Fashionistas and shopaholics delight in the twice-annual Paris sales, where everything from clothing to cookware is deeply discounted. The sales typically begin on the second Wednesday in January, when discounts start at around 30 percent, and run through the end of February, when those who have waited will be rewarded with discounts of up to 70 percent. Look for the soldes signs in windows all over the city or just head to the major department stores for a wide selection. Don't forget to grab your free copy of the Paris Shopping Book, which lists 300 shops, with addresses and hours of operation. There's even a section with sample shopping itineraries. Remember, nothing warms a girl's heart more than scoring some Chanel or copper pots at bargain prices!

The Christmas markets. Dalbera via Flickr.

Shop the Christmas markets  If you are lucky enough to be visiting in the month leading up to the holiday, you'll get to take advantage of the Christmas markets. Paris has no shortage of food or flea markets peppering its neighborhoods, but the temporary chalets and stalls erected on the city's squares have something very different to offer. You'll find arts and crafts, handmade decorations and regional foods like chocolate, foie gras, honey and jam. The markets at Place St.-Sulpice, Place St.-Germain-des-Prés and La Défense are reliable options. And don't forget to enjoy a cup of vin chaud—hot mulled wine of the season.

Go ice-skating  In 2004 an ice-skating rink opened on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower. I'd classify that as the chicest place on Earth to glide around on a glistening frozen pond. And though that particular attraction seems to come and go as it pleases, there are other trusted spots where rinks pop up from November through the end of February. A popular option with a gorgeous view is the space in front of the Hôtel de Ville. Skating alongside one of the city's grandest pieces of architecture puts you in your own little fairytale. This rink's proximity to both the Seine and the Marais makes it an ideal spot from which to explore. For a less touristy (and less elegant) rink, head to the Tour Montparnasse in the 15th Arrondissement. Admission to these rinks is free, though skate rental will set you back about 5 euros.

The Luxembourg Gardens. Omar via Flickr.

Grab some hot chocolate  Even die-hard sightseers know when it's time to come in from the cold. When that winter chill sets in, seek out warmth in a cup of thick French hot chocolate. And just so we're clear—I'm not talking powdered Swiss Miss. French hot chocolate, otherwise known as chocolat chaud, is the real deal. High-quality chocolate, melted and slightly sweetened, is served in a pitcher alongside a dish of freshly whipped cream. A truly decadent treat! Sip in style at upscale spots like Ladurée or La Maison du Chocolat. For a one-of-a-kind quirky vibe, opt for La Charlotte de l'Isle on the Île St.-Louis.

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By Amy Thomas

Le Bon Marché.

A shopping trip to Paris—where to begin? For even the most ardent shopaholic, tackling the epicenter of la mode can evoke panic (where to begin!), panic (but I can’t afford Chanel!) and more panic (my, those saleswomen are chic). But, hey, don’t panic. Here are eight all-about-Paris stores that range from fun to fancy for every kind of shopper (even the locals).

Colette
213 rue St.-Honoré, in the 1st Arrondissement. 01 55 35 33 90.
It’s all but impossible to talk about shopping in Paris without mentioning Colette. It wasn't long after the übercool concept store opened in 1997 that everyone in fashion, design, music—anyone who was cool and who cared anything about trends—took notice. And with good reason. Underground CDs, books and baskets (sneakers) on the ground floor give us mere mortals something to buy, while fabulously unattainable labels like Lanvin and Valentino draw the international elite. With rotating exhibitions in the art gallery and a subterranean restaurant, you're talking one cool concept store.

Merci.

Merci
111, blvd Beaumarchais, in the 3rd. 01 42 77 00 33.
Although Colette defined "concept store" 13 years ago, when Merci opened last year, it brought a whole new dimension to the genre. Similar to Colette in that it's a mini department store with a restaurant in the basement, plus two levels of exceptionally curated goods—APC, YSL and Acne intermix with secondhand armoires and books—Merci donates a percentage of its sales to charity in Madagascar, giving you the excuse to feel really good about your splurge.

Isabel Marant
47, rue Saintonge, in the 3rd. 01 42 78 19 24.
1, rue Jacob, in the 6th. 01 43 26 04 12.
16, rue de Charonne, in the 11th. 01 49 29 71 55.
Isabel Marant isn’t just a chic label, she’s a chic woman. After studying fashion here in Paris, she worked for big-name labels (Chloé, Yohji Yamamoto, Claude Montana) and then started producing her own accessories and clothes. Since opening her first store in 1997, she’s become a go-to label for parisiennes in the know. Feminine and flirty, yet also a little hippieish, Marant epitomizes style.

Anne Fontaine
50, rue Etienne Marcel, in the 2nd. 01 40 41 08 32.
22, rue de Passy, in the 16th. 01 42 24 80 20.
81, rue des Sts.-Pères, in the 16th. 01 45 48 89 10.
24, rue Boissy d'Anglas in the 8th. 01 42 68 04 95.
12, rue des Francs Bourgeois, in the 3rd. 01 44 59 81 59.
How many different ways can you wear a white shirt? Depends on how many white shirts you have. Since opening shop in 1994, Anne Fontaine has channeled her obsession for purity and simplicity into thousands of unique designs (about 300 a year), all in white. But with fabrics like poplin, piqué cotton, organdy and linen, sporting details like double colors, lace cuffs and flower appliqués, you’ll stand out from the crowd.

Roger Vivier
29, rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré, in the 8th. 01 53 43 85 50.
In the states, there is Manolo. In the UK, Jimmy Choo. And though the French have Monsieur Louboutin and those lovely red soles, there are also lesser-known, more cultish shoe designers—like Roger Vivier. When he was in his prime in the 1950s, the client base for his killer stilettos consisted of no less than Brigitte Bardot, Marlene Dietrich and Liz Taylor. Today, under the artistic direction of Bruno Frisoni, the house still makes shoes and purses with the unmistakable square silver buckle, as well as haute offerings like crocodile handbags, agate-encrusted clutches and killer thigh-high boots.

Repetto
51, rue du Four, in the 6th. 01 45 44 98 65.
22, rue de la Paix, in the 2nd. 01 44 71 83 12.
Although Repetto is a maker of traditional dance gear—tutus, unitards, slippers—the brand’s ballerina flats have become très chic streetwear. Parisian women bounce around the city in their comfy ballerinas, and Repetto is the brand to wear (good enough for Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Woman, good enough for me!). Soft royal blue leather, red patent leather, two-toned—the simple slipper in all its variations is simply a must-have.

Goyard
233, rue St.-Honoré, in the 1st. 01 42 60 57 04.
If you had to pick out a French handbag to bring home, chances are you'd hit up the ginormous Louis Vuitton flagship on the Champs-Elysées or visit one of the hushed Hermès boutiques. They wouldn’t be the wrong choices, but Goyard is another luxury label with a long, storied history that shows you’re really in the know. Sporting a tote with the signature interlocking chevron pattern and hand-painted monogram, you’ll get the nod of approval from Frenchies around the world.

Le Bon Marché
38, rue de Sèvres, in the 6th. 01 44 39 80 00.
Because it’s nearly impossible to say that Maje is better than Sandro is better than Comptoir des Cotonniers is better than American Vintage . . . Well, you can find all of these wonderfully trendy French chain stores under one roof: Le Bon Marché. And, if your clothing allowance is in a whole other stratosphere, you’ll also find the likes of Lanvin, Kenzo, Maison Margiela and Marc Jacobs, along with shoes, bags and makeup, all in this beautiful, classic Parisian department store.

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By Cynthia Rose

Courtesy Musée Bourdelle.

Isadora at the Musée Bourdelle

"Isadora Duncan: Une Sculpture Vivante" at the Musée Bourdelle is one of Paris’s most exuberant expos. But don’t plan to go unless you’ve got time to spend. From its rare costumes and photographs to wonderful paintings, films and sculptures, this show is as fascinating as its subject. Plus, if you don’t already know Isadora, this is a great way to meet one of the last century’s most notorious stars.

Step by step, you’ll participate in her rise—from humble American origins to the role of international legend. Isadora’s métier was “free,” or modern, dance, which, paired with her beauty and daring, proved her ticket to greatness. It’s utterly riveting to follow her ascent, complete with torrid love affairs, passionate politics and epic tragedies. (The dancer bore three children out of wedlock, none of whom survived, and she died when she was accidentally strangled by her scarf.)

The exhibition follows Isadora from dancing in drawing rooms to stardom, both across Europe and in Russia after the revolution. We see the Greek antiquities that first inspired her, then rare photos of her dancing on the Acropolis. More glamorous photographs by Druet and Steichen, as well as sculptures of Isadora by Bourdelle and Rodin (not to mention dresses by Paul Poiret and Fortuny), make it easy to understand just how famous she became. (Isadora inspired, among others, Russian theatre great Konstantin Stanislavsky, British playwright George Bernard Shaw and Ballets Russes stars Sergei Diaghilev, Anna Pavlova and Michel Fokine.)

Her stardom reverberates through rooms of magazine covers and features, books, love poems, letters and postcards, newspaper cuttings, watercolors, paintings, jewelry, murals and sketches—all are of Isadora or inspired by her. The toast of both Parisian art circles and high society, she is described by Colette as “a woman who would dance to her death, on naked feet.”

© Steve Sampson

The museum puts Isadora-mania into context, though, by including not just photos of her famous lovers, doomed children and dance schools (in Germany, France and Moscow). It also offers a solid perspective on the world she inhabited—as well as her teachers and competition, from other “experimental” dancers to legends such as Nijinsky.

There is a brief film of Isadora actually dancing, as well as filmed performances by her students, the “Isadorables.” A special contemporary movie, Carnet d’un rêveur (A Dreamer’s Notebook) features dancers from the Centre Chorégraphique National de Grenoble.

This museum is captivating on its own merits; it has long been a secret favorite among Parisians. Perhaps that is because, wandering its gardens and studios, one can truly sense the vanished Montparnasse. Jaw-dropping as Bourdelle’s great monuments are—and they enjoy their own specially built great hall—the site’s real attraction is that quiet sense of travel through time, back to a more intimate and bohemian Paris.

"Isadora Duncan: Une Sculpture Vivante" is at the Musée Bourdelle through March 14, 2010.

A Quick Tour of Isadora’s Paris

45, rue de Villiers, in the 17th Arrondissement
Isadora lived here, where she gave her first performances in Paris, for Rodin, Bourdelle and numerous artists and socialites.

9, rue Delambre, in the 14th
Isadora moved here to join the Montparnasse art scene, telling friends she danced in the Luxembourg Gardens every day at 5 a.m.

5, rue Danton, in the 5th
Isadora took two apartments here in 1909, living on the ground floor and teaching dance above.

108, rue de la Pompe, in the 16th
Isadora’s studio here was called Salle Beethoven. Visiting in the 1920s, Janet Flanner called her “without question the most famous American living in Paris.”

Père-Lachaise Cemetery
Final resting place of Isadora, who was cremated and buried next to her children on September 19, 1927.

Watch: The 1968 biopic Isadora, starring Vanessa Redgrave, who won Best Actress at Cannes for her portrayal.

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By Sylvia Sabes

www.oneandonlyparisphotography.com

With Valentine's Day just around the corner, one can’t help dreaming about meeting one's very own Prince Charming, and what better place to spin a fairy-tale romance than in Paris, the city of love? Ha, and there's the rub. Without having been educated in France and without a serious social network, how does one go about finding that special someone?

This being a pragmatic, modern age, there is always the online solution. Meetic is the city's most popular online dating service, and anglophone women who post there report a tremendous rate of success. But the rules of online dating are complicated, and one must be ready to invest time, energy and a bit of cash in such an endeavor. While this could be a fun way of setting up a café rendezvous before your visit, users are advised to proceed with extreme caution.

If the online option leaves you cold, more traditional alternatives are alive and well. Given the French obsession with fine cuisine, one of the most popular places for meeting singles is at the local grocery store. Looking into someone's shopping basket on a Friday or Saturday evening reveals many clues into the shopper’s life and potential availability. Many a man shows up looking like a lost soul with a recipe written out by his mom, and you can be there to assist him. Your own confusion over the ever-intimidating yogurt aisle makes for an ideal conversation starter: “Wow, they don't have a selection like this where I come from.”

www.oneandonlyparisphotography.com

The French also have a passion for fine art, and Parisians really do invest themselves in the local scene, which makes art exhibitions a top destination for chance meetings. When I was single I'd invariably run into other singles, often men appreciating art and often looking for something more. The great thing about the galleries is that you have already demonstrated a common interest in a particular show, and the art gives you a great subject to begin the conversation.

And what could be more French than the local café. Conversations tend to be liveliest and the crowd thickest around the bar. The bar area also seems to attract more men, probably because all the ladies are giving their feet a rest from the perilously high heels we insist on wearing despite the cobblestoned streets. Whatever the reason, this gives an exotically foreign gal at the bar a slight advantage. A bit of eye contact, a light joke and before you know it, you're asking for a table in the corner to get better acquainted.

As I write this I can hear your protests. “YES, but I don't speak French!” Don't worry, there are plenty of Parisians who speak English, or at least believe they speak English and are thrilled to practice with someone. As for your own lessons, there is a local saying: “The best way to learn French is from the pillow.”

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By Sylvia Sabes

A part of visiting Paris is exploring French cuisine. But sometimes enough is enough and a visitor may want to branch out a bit. Because the locals are so demanding, this city has some of the best ethnic food to be found outside of its home country. I could go on and on about my favorite places (and I do) but I've got only 500 words, so let's get busy.

Japanese

Kunitoraya  $
39, rue Ste.-Anne, in the 1st Arrondissement. Open every day, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
A traditional Japanese noodle joint, this little hole-in-the-wall draws crowds of people who are willing to stand in line for up to an hour to enjoy soothing udon noodles, cooked with precision in the open “kitchen” area. I'm so addicted to their Kamaten-Udon that the chef no longer waits for me to order.

Yen  $$$
22, rue St.-Benoît, in the 6th. 01 45 70 91 75.
This is the best soba noodle restaurant outside of Japan—I've even hosted visiting Japanese businessmen who claimed there were few of its equal at home. They fly the buckwheat in from Japan and the rich, perfectly al dente noodles are made on demand in the restaurant's front window. Their sake menu has converted more than one non–sake drinker. Reservations highly recommended.

Israeli

L'As du Fallafel  $
34, rue des Rosiers, in the 4th. 01 48 87 63 60.
A story on ethnic eats in Paris would not be complete without mentioning this culinary jewel of the Marais. Delicately flavored lamb schwarma and crispy-on-the-outside, moist-on-the-inside fava bean falafel are the specialties of this local joint. You can dine in or grab one to go and enjoy it at one of the nearby playgrounds. Don't let the monstrous lines deter you. The food here is incredibly fresh and worth the wait.

North African

Chez Omar  $$
47, rue de Bretagne, in the 3rd. 01 42 72 36 26.
When my friend recommends a Moroccan restaurant, I listen. Her husband was born in Casablanca, and his mother is a notoriously good cook. Ensconced in this traditional French bistro, you're bound to lose your sense of place over a bowl powdery semoule, rich broth and delectable stewed meats.

Vietnamese

Au Bambou  $
70, rue de Baudricourt, in the 13th. 01 45 70 91 75.
Like the rest of my favorites, this place induces long lines as Vietnamese and locals wait patiently for a place to enjoy la-lot beef just like Grandma used to make, pho with all the innards and aromatically grilled meats. Around February it is Tet (New Year's), and if you are very lucky, the flamboyant waiter, who is dripping in gold, will offer you the chance to purchase his sister's signature treat—banana in sticky rice with coconut—to take home and enjoy.

Italian

Casa Bini  $$
36, rue Grégoire de Tours, in the 6th. 01 46 34 05 60.
My friend Simone heads to Tuscany several times a year to restock the restaurant his mother established more than 20 years ago. Famous for their carpaccio, the chefs come from southern Italy, so they know their way around seafood, too. The only complaint I've ever heard was from a local, who found there were too many truffles in the linguine.

Korean

Odori  $$
18, rue Letellier, in the 15th. 01 45 77 88 12.
Eating Korean is like taking your taste buds on an adventure while the rest of you parties. Barbecue beef is prepared at your table with six to eight condiments on the side. Your senses will venture from the crunchy, salty seaweed to the mellow sweet potatoes, over the spicy acidic cabbage and through the cool zucchini, resting eventually with a familiar taste of rice.

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By Cynthia Rose

© Didier Plowy

Artist Christian Boltanski loves to shop at Paris flea markets. “I go,” he says, “I see a jacket that I like and I say, 'Take me, I’m yours!' I bring the jacket a whole new life, because love always gives life.”

Boltanski is discussing the impulses behind "Personnes," his new installation at the Grand Palais. "Personnes," which means either “people” or “nobodies,” is this year’s offering from Paris’s annual Monumenta exhibition. Every year, Monumenta gives a single artist access to all 145,000 square feet of the nave at the Grand Palais. Boltanski’s amazing piece has utterly transformed the space—and visitors to it become part of the spectacle.

Entering the vast hall, you first confront a monster wall. It’s made out of rusted biscuit tins, the kind used to hold family photographs or children’s treasures. For Boltanski, these tins have become a signature object—a symbol of our desire to remember. Walking around the wall, you enter a dreamlike vision. The huge floor holds a colossal field of empty clothes, spread flat into 69 giant squares. At the corners of each square are audio speakers on pillars, and each square booms out a real (recorded) heartbeat, echoing through the chilly air, amplified by the concrete floor. The show’s center is a towering mountain of secondhand clothing. Periodically the scarlet claw of a crane descends, wrests a bunch of clothes from this pile, then lifts those items to the top of the grand glass ceiling.

There they are released, to float slowly down through the air and back to the heap. The squeal and whine of the crane blends with the synchronized heartbeats until their strange music (as well as the cold) envelops you. Seen over and over, the moment of random free fall is stunning—simple clothing suddenly seems like souls, falling bodies or spirits.

© Didier Plowy

This is not conceptual art, where you have to “get the idea." It is an absorbing and strangely delicate experience. Someone stands beside you, listening intently to the same heartbeat, mesmerized just like you by the acres of clothes whose sleeves seem to gesture. The silent sense of sharing is powerful.

Boltanski says he wants all his art to reach everyone. “I place objects in relation to the subject—you. I also try to work with things that mean everyone knows what I’m doing," he explains. "Good art is like a machine where everything is useful. I try to be useful, not to make 'beautiful things.'”

At once truly spectacular and poetically simple, "Personnes" evokes surprising depths of feeling—thoughts about one’s family or about Haiti, the Holocaust, 9/11. Boltanski, whose own family was scarred by the occupation of France, says he strives to commemorate individual identities. “Because the big memory is already there in books. It’s the small memory that interests me: knowing the best place to get cake or knowing a certain joke. Those kinds of memory are the most easily lost. Each person is so important but, also, so fragile.”

To emphasize his point, all the elements of "Personnes" will be recycled when it concludes. The piece will be staged again this May in New York. But, says the artist, “we are sending nothing. It’s like a piece of music that must be reorchestrated.”

“For me,” he says, “exhibitions should function like musical scores. Tell your stories with light and sensations—then let the visitor finish them.”

"Personnes" is on view at the Grand Palais through February 21. Mon and Wed, 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Thurs–Sun, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Closed Tues. To answer questions, multilingual specialists are stationed throughout the space.

Ed. note: You can download a free Grand Palais app for your iPhone that tells you all about the landmark in either English or French. Interviewees include designer Karl Lagerfeld and artist Daniel Buren.

© Didier Plowy

Other Boltanski Works to See

Après
Contemporary Art Museum of Val-de-Marne
In tandem with Monumenta, Boltanski created this version of “afterlife" at the Contemporary Art Museum of Val-de-Marne. It is accessible by metro and bus or RER; the Grand Palais also provides a shuttle service.

The Inhabitants of the Hôtel Saint-Aignan in 1939
Museum of Judaic Art and History 
This fascinating museum (which includes artifacts of the Dreyfus affair as well as art by Chagall and Soutine) asked Boltanski to create its sole reference to the Holocaust. His permanent installation is in a small courtyard.

About the Artist

The son of a doctor and a novelist, Boltanski had a very strange childhood. During the Occupation, before his birth in 1944, his Jewish parents staged a quarrel, then divorced. Unbeknownst to his elder brothers—who thought their father had deserted the family—the doctor was living in a closet of their Paris apartment. Once the war ended, his parents remarried. But until Boltanski was 18, he says, his family was “ruled by a sense of instability”; every member slept in the same room (“for safety”). His mother, who had survived polio, used her sons as “canes” to walk—thus Boltanski was rarely at school. Instead he taught himself to paint and ran a small gallery. His real subject, installations that seek to rescue lost identities, emerged during the 1980s. Since then he has received many global awards and will represent France at the 2011 Venice Biennale. He is married to the French artist Annette Messager.

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By Doni Belau

If you don’t know about the passages, you must learn. I don’t mean to sound professorial, but I made the same mistake—coming to Paris for an embarrassingly long time before I finally made the discovery. The passages are old-fashioned shopping malls from the late 1700s and early 1800s that provided cover from rain, mud and horses for the chic shopping ladies of yesteryear. Let’s not even discuss the city's open sewers during that era—you can understand why someone had the bright idea to build a passage. They come in all different shapes and sizes, so one will surely strike your fancy. All have skylights, and most have some serious interest for architecture buffs; many have unique shops and all are uniquely Parisian.

Not too long ago I took a tour of the passages with a tour guide—a lovely older lady who made up in kindness for a somewhat thin veneer of knowledge (I won’t offend her by outing her here). We toured the most famous passage, Vivienne, in the 2nd Arrondissement, plus Passage Colbert, Panoramas, Choiseul, Jouffroy, Brady and Verdeau, among others. There is something special about these secret little passageways. Walking into each one feels like you are unwrapping a different gift.

Vivienne is probably my favorite, with its spectacular mosaic tiles and great shopping. Here you’ll find a charming modern art gallery, Martine Moisan, which gives lessons on Saturdays; a fabulous florist, Emilio Robba; a killer tea salon, A Priori Thé; and a bookshop of rare finds. There’s even a bistro (Bistro Vivienne), plus a fine wine shop, Legrand Filles and Fils. (We love that "filles" comes first!) But the crème de la crème is Jean Paul Gaultier’s shop—oh la la, and there’s more. All info on Vivienne here. 

Passage Colbert is also quite beautiful, possibly more grand than Vivienne in style, but the only commercial thing there is the brasserie Le Grand Colbert, of Something’s Gotta Give movie fame—remember the romantic scene where Diane Keaton orders the roast chicken? Reviews are mixed, though David Lebovitz loves it—then again, he dined there with the director of the movie. Other tourists are not as keen. It is one of the few independently owned bistros left in Paris, though we think it could use a bit of polish.

A Priori Thé at the Galerie Vivienne.

Not to be missed is Galerie Véro-Dodat, with the überfamous Christian Louboutin—do I hear a flock of girls running? And as if that weren’t enough, you’ll find cosmetic goddess Terry de Gunzburg’s shop, By Terry, for makeup and a quick redo. Discover antique dolls at Robert Capia’s store.

The funkiest passage we toured was Passage Brady, which is chock-full of Indian and Pakistani restaurants. Some recommend these restos, but we felt they were a bit too shabby for our taste.

Passage du Grand Cerf is home to fashion and was declared the hippest of the arcades by the New York Times back in 2003. It houses Satellite, a costume jeweler we like, as well as Bei Style, a Chinese designer, among other interesting shops. Rickshaw is a fun store for interior accents with a Bollywood vibe. There's also MX Sylvie Branellec for pearls and PM Co Style for interesting interiors with Buddhas and such.

Passage des Panoramas is the oldest and has many restaurants and cafés, most notably Racines, which was recently sold. But the new owner promises to keep the same spirit—think organic cooking. Another shop of interest is the engraver Stern (profiled here), if you need an invitation engraved or would like to make yourself a proper French calling card. Is there a cooler thing to come home with than your own proper French calling cards?

There’s even an apartment you can rent (described here) in Passage du Bourg l’Abbé, which is in the 2nd with many of the other passages. (They tend to center around the 2nd and the 9th.) This apartment looks wonderful and is priced well, too. Plus, the 2nd is an area we really enjoy above and beyond the passages.

In Passage Jouffroy there’s also a small quaint hotel by the name of Hôtel Chopin. Cheap sleep, a bit shabby chic but affordable in a good and completely unique location, if you can deal with the tiny rooms and dated decor. 76–100 euros a night!

Passage Verdeau has antiques, comics, musical instruments and engravings. Passage des Princes specializes in toys. Jouffroy also has a darling toy store, Pain d’Épices, and a needlepoint shop, Le Bonheur des Dames. Old movie posters, Lebanese pastries and the wax museum of Paris, Musée Grévin, can also be found in Jouffroy.

There are nearly 30 passages, so post and tell us about your favorites. Happy touring!

INFO

Addresses here: Passages & Galeries

Tour the passages: Paris 360

Photos of many of the entrances: Paris Connected

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By Amy Barnard

The Institut du Monde Arabe (Institute of the Arab World), in the 5th Arrondissement, is at once a museum, a library and a cultural center. I had been to concerts here once or twice before but hadn’t toured the museum.

I had come down to pick up the program for their current belly-dance shows (more on this later) and decided, while I was there, to check it out for your benefit and see their current exhibition, "Arts de l’Islam." The show starts with artifacts found across Central Asia and the Middle East from the pre-Islamic period, including many Greek-influenced objects and some beautiful mosaics from Roman Tunisia. It then moves into pottery styles, carpet and jewelry, though the stars of the museum collection are the illuminated manuscripts and calligraphy. It also includes medical and astronomical instruments, illustrating just how much more advanced in these areas the Arab world was in the pre-Renaissance period.

The exhibition is very worthwhile (especially if it would be your first experience with Arab art), as it is unusually broad. Normally such exhibitions are on a specific area—Ottoman Turkey, say, or Persia. Here I noticed pottery from North Africa, drawings from Mogul India, Turkish pieces and, possibly my favorite form, Persian miniatures. These tiny drawings are exquisite, worked in mind-boggling detail and controversial: they portray human forms, traditionally verboten in Islamic art (here’s not the place for the details on how they got away with it). The show also includes more calligraphy and beautiful geometric designs.

As with a lot of museums in Paris, there isn’t any written info in English . . . audio guide to the rescue! (5 euros.)

The Institut is holding a series of belly-dance shows until April—a great move, since Middle East cultural centers often shy away from this entertainment, which doesn’t help its image. If you’re feeling inspired, there are belly-dance drop-in classes available in Paris. No need to sign up. Just pay for your hour-and-a-half class at Centre de Danse du Marais or Centre Momboye when you get there.

Upcoming Belly-Dance Shows at IMA

Feb 13  Flowers . . . until the end of the earth 
Paola Ruggeri and Gul Hacer Torok

Mar 2  Oriental Cabaret 
Isabelle Delle Castelle and troupe

Apr 17  Oriental Lights 
Annaba Company

Tickets range from 19 to 26 euros and can be purchased online or at the ticket office at the Institut.

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By Sylvia Sabes

Embossing leather in the Hermès shop.

One of the hidden secrets of the 6th Arrondissement in Paris is the 1930s art deco swimming pool at 17, rue de Sèvres. I don't know if you'll ever get the chance to visit this urban oasis because the spot was recently acquired by one of the last true luxury brands in France, Hermès. This is particularly nice for the city's mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, who lives just upstairs, somewhere behind the stunning mosaics of violets on fields of gold that adorn the facade.

The Rive Gauche was once home to bohemians and intellectuals. But the real money seems to have moved south, and Hermès cannot seem to move in fast enough, which is why they have opened a temporary boutique at 16, rue de Grenelle. Temporary boutiques are quite fashionable these days, and the French refer to them as “boutiques ephémères,” which sounds so romantic that I simply had to have a peek.

Which is why I was looking into their window during a shoe-shopping trip with the Frenchman this weekend. Well, that and the stunning redhead who was embossing gold and silver sheets into a rainbow of animal skins that were carefully displayed behind her. Naturally, I had to go in and investigate further.

I'd love to say, “Her name is ____,” but this is France and we generally don't ask someone's name unless formally introduced, so I've lost the habit. In any case, Mademoiselle is an embosser for the Hermès leather goods department, and she was there for the weekend embossing bracelets, handbags and any other leather keepsake people wished to purchase and brand.

I was disappointed to learn that she was leaving after the weekend, but thrilled when she explained that artisans from the Hermès workshops would be visiting throughout the month of February to work their craft and share their magic. The program is called the Magic of the Movement and the Tool, and it is happening Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays through February 27.

There really is a feeling of magic when committed artists wield their tools and explain their expertise. These people are passionate about what they do, and sharing with them is a gift. I did not think to ask if she speaks English, but the sales staff does, and they are more than happy to translate, even if you are just there to look and learn. You are sure to leave feeling enchanted.

INFO

Hermès
Temporary boutique at 16, rue de Grenelle, in the 7th.
Thursdays to Saturdays through February 27.

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